Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

It needs to, otherwise there is zero point in making the manifold split pulse.

I was going the single gate route but got talked out of it.... No regrets!

 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

It needs to, otherwise there is zero point in making the manifold split pulse.

Won't quote names but I've seen a few from big brands appear to be split until both pulses are just going into 1x big 50 mm hole to the gate.

Best I've seen from one brand was an open scroll manifold with a divided T3 flange welded on top lol

  • Haha 1

yeah 6 boost did the spilt for the gate. 

I did all the fab work, trust me you dont want anymore pipe work under there. In saying that my gate is plumbed back in which makes it a bit harder. Screamer pipes are easier to route. 

But at the end of the day, what for - why make it harder and most $$$ for the same result. 

Edited by Deano 1
  • Like 2
1 minute ago, Deano 1 said:

yeah 6 boost did the spilt for the gate. 

I did all the fab work, trust me you dont want anymore pipe work under there. In saying that my gate is plumbed back in which makes it a bit harder. Screamer pipes are easier to route. 

But at the end of the day, what for - why make it harder and most $$$ for the same result. 

Also the plate thats welded up the inside of the pipe from the mani to gate flange - Hangs out past the end of the pipe, once you weld the V band onto the end of the pipe - you than shape the "spilt plate" to suit the back of the waste gate, so its sealed up. 

  • Like 1

This would be practically no different to the IWG housings, and i'd be pretty confident that it would be as good as twin gates.

What stumps me is when people do have a split pulse manifold and the single gate isn't divided..

  • Like 1

Given r32-25t has posted a dyno of his -5's with vcam on the same dyno presumably as this i thought i'd put them together for interests stake. 

Of course if ramp rate was different etc might cause comparison issues but i figure this is better than most considering its same dyno and a short period of time apart.

Book3.thumb.png.3a762751f695fa78934f0e0cff471c1f.png

  • Like 4

For what its worth, going on boost curves etc, i'd expect my 2.8/9.5:1 8374 to be to the left of the -5 curve. But its hard to say if street feel would line up on a dyno etc. 

 

But yes if i had another spare 5000 i'd get vcam.

Your car would belt the 5s just like every other back to back 5s vs 8374.

Plus a run in tune would be low on timing I'd like to think which should fatten up the middle a bit more. 

V cam on your car would probably just induce surge. With the hi comp and .92 it wouldn't need any help getting it spooling! 

Piggies car would start surging on the dyno as low as 2800rpm. 

So even if it had v cam on it, you couldn’t move the intake cam anyways. 

Edited by Mick_o

New EFR crew member checking in....

Manifold will be a 6boost w/ twin gates.

Wastegates will be tial mv-s.

Exhaust will be plumbed back via 3.5" downpipe

The EFR will be used on a SR20DET with a fully ported NAPREC head, big valve chamber with deleted squish pads.

ETA for completion is probably 6 months away.

Having been in a 2.8L EFR machine, the thing is completely mental and beats stock response with quadruple the power.  THEY ARE MAGIC fellas.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
21 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

might plot that tomorrow arvo if i get a chance.

Note the one i already plotted was -5's with vcam.

 

As the pig said thats also the same v cam and rolling road not hub dyno like the -5 result. So theres a possibility that its a "higher reading" vs the rollers. 

1 hour ago, BakemonoRicer said:

New EFR crew member checking in....

Manifold will be a 6boost w/ twin gates.

Wastegates will be tial mv-s.

Exhaust will be plumbed back via 3.5" downpipe

The EFR will be used on a SR20DET with a fully ported NAPREC head, big valve chamber with deleted squish pads.

ETA for completion is probably 6 months away.

Having been in a 2.8L EFR machine, the thing is completely mental and beats stock response with quadruple the power.  THEY ARE MAGIC fellas.

 

 

 

Tell em the turbo son! 

1 hour ago, Mick_o said:

As the pig said thats also the same v cam and rolling road not hub dyno like the -5 result. So theres a possibility that its a "higher reading" vs the rollers. 

Because I was worried about the exact same thing I spoke to Jez about that and his dynos are within 3% of each other 

Sweet thanks for clearing that up ?

So lets call it "on par" you're at about 160kw at 4000.. The 8374 is at about 240kw at 4000??

80kw through the middle with 60kw up top. 

Thats quite alot more power EVERYWHERE! 

Plus all those nice things EFR delivers that the dynosheet doesn't show... 

 

Edited by Mick_o

I'm happy with mine also but coming from Tomei ARMS that wouldn't be a glowing endorsement :P

did take it for a bit of a moutain squirt last week and its great, no 'to large to be fun' issues... and (once i get e85/boost) will have a shitload of power for whenever else i want it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...