Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, Griffin said:

I've just gotten the 9174 running on rb26. Needs a tune. Alot better off boost but only makes  .5 bar at 4k rpm.

Will a tune fix the laziness much?

 

Ignore the boost gauge for a kick off mate. Get it dialled in and see when it boots you up the ass when you mash the loud pedal.  See how it responds to different throttle inputs etc

Just burying your foot on the accelerator and waiting for something to happen while watching your boost gauge isn't a good way to gauge how it's gunna drive. Especially if it's untuned. 

10 hours ago, Griffin said:

I'm not too clued up on the tuning side of it. How much of an improvement do you expect after tuned properly?

Stand alone ebc.

There is no fixed rule, sorry.  Depends on how far off the current tune is for it etc - the actual boost threshold is unlikely to change much unless there is something mechanically (cam timing/wastegate/leaks) making it laggier than it should be.

What exhaust housing is it running?  What was the previous setup, or should I say - what tune it is running on if it's not tuned for this setup?    If it's completely untuned then I would take anything of how it drives with a grain of salt, and really not be driving it at all.    

1.05 ts ewg. Previous turbo was 8370 wheel size Borg Warner journal bearing with internal wastegate that was too small to control boost.

Definitely a lot less restrictive now on the exhaust side.

Tuned on eflex with cam gears adjusted to suit. Has 264 greddy cams.

16 hours ago, HarrisRacing said:

These are my old pumpgas results on 8374 IWG with nothing more than changing cam settings (increased overlap).

 

 

 

where are they Pat , nothing to see ?

On 4/11/2018 at 8:50 AM, Griffin said:

1.05 ts ewg. Previous turbo was 8370 wheel size Borg Warner journal bearing with internal wastegate that was too small to control boost.

Definitely a lot less restrictive now on the exhaust side.

Tuned on eflex with cam gears adjusted to suit. Has 264 greddy cams.

I've taken the efr off and am going to sell it . Went back to a smaller turbo and couldn't be happier. 

I'll list it in for sale section if anyone is interested.

3 minutes ago, Griffin said:

I've taken the efr off and am going to sell it . Went back to a smaller turbo and couldn't be happier. 

I'll list it in for sale section if anyone is interested.

Did you actually get it tuned ?

 

What have you replaced it with ?

6 minutes ago, Griffin said:

No , pulled the plug before it became too used and worthless. 

Upgraded to a turbo off a tractor.

You mean downgraded to something better matched to what you wanted?

The 9174 was laggier than the old Airwerks ?

Yes correct. Tune would help. Ive got a forged 3025 neo and r33 gtst.ill put it on that if I don't find a buyer. Any help selling would be greatly appreciated. The one I put on is slightly similar to what came off but with t4 rear and better twin scroll manifold / external gate setup.

 

On 4/17/2018 at 6:45 PM, Griffin said:

Yes correct. Tune would help. Ive got a forged 3025 neo and r33 gtst.ill put it on that if I don't find a buyer. Any help selling would be greatly appreciated. The one I put on is slightly similar to what came off but with t4 rear and better twin scroll manifold / external gate setup.

 

So its like a Borg Warner S300SX 8375 or something - 60mm turbo?

I'll mention it to Kiwis who may want a 9174, you have the 1.05 hot side?

 

56 minutes ago, Lithium said:

So its like a Borg Warner S300SX 8375 or something - 60mm turbo?

I'll mention it to Kiwis who may want a 9174, you have the 1.05 hot side?

 

Yes mate to both questions.

What I'm using now is basically an 8370. It starts moving just after 2000 rpm.

It would be great to find a buyer thanks. 

7 hours ago, Griffin said:

Yes mate to both questions.

What I'm using now is basically an 8370. It starts moving just after 2000 rpm.

It would be great to find a buyer thanks. 

Can't promise anything but will mention it.

Where do you get an 8370!?  Never heard of such a combo

That's what the wheels measure up at. Extended tip compressor too. The first one I used on this car was off an eimco ed10. Screenshot_20180419-165043.thumb.png.5d86742b662ec24ce8cd2f0e13885fc9.png

That was '8374' size with cut down water cooled turbine housing. The one I just took off was '8370' with twin scroll t3 turbine housing and internal wastegate which the ports were way too small and not able to control boost.

The new one has the same size wheels in a t4 twin scroll housing but I've made it external waste gate. It works great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...