Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The new genV turbosmart twin port is probably the way to go. It has a better lower seal and a universal joint to the wastegate actuator arm. I wasn't very impressed with the first two versions (non twin port and the first twin port) but the latest one should be good. Use a low pressure spring or it'll be too sensitive.

The e-iwg cost wasn't too bad (less than the turbosmart actually), but yes, you will have to adapt it to fit and have an ecu that can drive it.

Position data is nice.

Edited by taijohnsen
8 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

The e-iwg cost wasn't too bad (less than the turbosmart actually), but yes, you will have to adapt it to fit and have an ecu that can drive it.

Position data is nice.

I thought the supra parts were already a few hundred bucks alone?

Do you have a list of items that are needed for the e-iwg?

Can't seem to find anything useful with google.

The genV twin port is $500ish AUD and the std one is $300ish AUD. I managed to get the e-iwg landed from USA for $350 AUD.

A bit of 3D printing and a carton of beer sorted the rest.

More pics in my thread http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/263854/354587.html

Hey Tai!

Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish.

Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there.

The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league.

Another question though:

With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max?

Thanks and have a nice weekend!

Now that my build is finished after 2 long years being off the road I can finally contribute to this thread with my EFR results.

EFR 8374 1.05 A/R

Racepace built RB28

9:5:1 compression ratio spool pistons

Nitto I beam rods

Spool billit 2.8 stroker crankshaft 

PRP engine brace

HKS step 2 valve springs

6 boost manifold 

Turbosmart 60mm wastegate

Nitto oil pump

Racepace custom 3.5” dump pipe & cat

Tomei extreme titanium cat back 

Plazmaman 100mm intercooler

PRP trigger kit

PRP R35 coil kit

Tomei cam gears 

Haltech elite 2500

Bosch 1650cc injectors with flex fuel

Nismo front LSD

Racepace transfer case upgrade

Plus many more mods

Made 504.9kw 25psi on E85

Couldn’t be anymore happier with the result and build. Turbo feels awesome and love the responsiveness. 

0B64DAA0-72F6-4EB5-B551-FDDCDFFC95C6.jpeg

C55780D3-3032-4D10-9AAE-1236B1B1442A.jpeg

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, burn4005 said:

Roller speed axis should be made illegal.

What gearbox, diff ratios, rims and tyres?

I agree..    based on my own car that would be boost in at around 4100rpm I think.

But why they don't use RPM is beyond me.

Gearbox stock, diff ratio stock, rims volk GT-C 19x10.5 pirelli p zero 275 and cams are stock atm because mine are on back order. Have a set of mines super shore pro camshafts just waiting till they arrive and will get them installed. Tune has been wound back to 460kw @ 23psi while the engine is being ran in and till the cams arrive.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/9/2021 at 8:44 AM, MotHot said:

Hey Tai!

Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish.

Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there.

The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league.

Another question though:

With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max?

Thanks and have a nice weekend!

Thanks MotHot,

It has been a long build, but I have enjoyed the journey for the most part :)

Sorry for the delayed response, but the tuner took a while to get back to me with the logs.

The internal power calcs of the EMtron say 350kw engine, this run was 350rwkw @ the wheels (roller)

turboRPM.png

01jzzdyno.JPG

Edited by taijohnsen
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/9/2021 at 3:34 PM, R32 TT said:

I agree..    based on my own car that would be boost in at around 4100rpm I think.

But why they don't use RPM is beyond me.

Because who gives a shit about rpm.. road speed is where it counts!!! :)

 

Lol, all you stroker big block RB boys would realise your better served by laggy RB20s that rev to 10,000rpm with 4.6 diff :)

 

 

  • Haha 3
  • Confused 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hello, could you guys help me choose between 8374 and 8474, both with 1.05 housings, for 2jz ge non vvti engine. Quick specs are 9.5CR, BC264 cams, sligthly ported head. The target is 650 to around 700whp with best spool and response and 7500 to maximum 7800rpm limit. Is the 8374 be enough or 8474 will be needed for those goals? Fuel will be E100. Thank you in advance!

Matchbot will tell you there is no way an 8374 should be on a 3.0L RB.   

That said, I ran mine happily for some years at sub 120krpm making 650-700hp at hubs and spinning to 7000-7500rpm on both 3.0 and now Nitto 3.2.  Intake temps were ok - but it didn't want to make any more power.  It has finally let go just two weekends ago.    We had recently added launch control which may or may not have contributed (or at least shortened its life).     Everything on Matchbot says its should be overspeeding, but I've got logs to show it wasn't (unless there is an issue with what/how we are reading) - so I am not sure how this correlates to Matchbot..  perhaps the default VE figures are different enough to affect it?  

I've also run an 8474 on same engine (3.2L, both 1.05 rear) and it definitely feels laggier than the 8374.  On a dyno plot its only about 200rpm later coming on, but in practice, on a rally sprint coming off 2nd gear corners, you notice the difference.  Also between gear transient response is dulled a bit.

8474 makes about 50hp at the hubs more on same boost (750hp at 23-26psi) , temps post turbo (pre intercooler) are only 10 degree cooler. And post cooler can't see a difference.  Definitely when in the mid-range revs and up you feel the extra legs it has.

So!  for me, on a 3.0-3.2L  I'd be going 8474 and altering gearing to suit what you're doing,  and keep it a bit further up the rev range.    

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...