Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

We are coffee pals. I have the same machine (well actually the cheaper one without an LCD). 
Mine has been going strong for 5 years. It's been through three offices and now makes my morning coffee without fail.

Literally the greatest little coffee machine i could have asked for. I trust yours is going just as strong?

haha the 3x way solenoid carked it, however fixed now. The group head back flush failed, however this machine is about 5 years old and has pulled an easy 6000 shots of coffee. My wife & I do double shots each, each morning then when friends come over etc. we pump out coffee too.

  • Like 1
11 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Nah he pumped too much boost through it and blew some shit up, scroll back where he talks about fixing it. 

Keep up bro. 

Hahaha. My bad. MINE is still going strong, because I haven't removed the boost pill.

  • Haha 1
2 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

haha the 3x way solenoid carked it, however fixed now. The group head back flush failed, however this machine is about 5 years old and has pulled an easy 6000 shots of coffee. My wife & I do double shots each, each morning then when friends come over etc. we pump out coffee too.

Yep. I don't think i'd be at 6000 closer to 4000 but yeah. Same same. If it breaks and I can't fix it i'll be off to buy the exact same one again. :D

Get the BES920 (same as what I have) as it has a dual boiler & also you can independently adjust the steam temp/water temp & also the pre-infusion (makes all the difference).

I like coffee lol.

Back to fine tuning the bong again, aiming for  4 cups at 3 hours. Have 48g in and 480mL of cold water (ice cubes in there too).

First time using these beans, however flavour profiles sounds good.

I really should be servicing the R33 before I put it on the dyno next week.

Also thinking I should dump the external to atmosphere as it makes for better Instagram videos.

20200607_105924.thumb.jpg.c31673138ae304b4cefda6bd133fd654.jpg

20200607_110113.thumb.jpg.982c1d893b40acab686893d646c757c8.jpg

20200607_110256.thumb.jpg.e093a5044dea23bffb58bc4ac9bef41d.jpg

20200607_111830.thumb.jpg.1e5c5a6e14dc8ae5fe60aff678474c08.jpg

  • Like 1
10 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

My nearly legal but visibly not legal, legal when off boost exhaust system.

20200608_120952.thumb.jpg.938699416dc76a396fe58b7c8ce97ad3.jpg

20200608_121018.thumb.jpg.cbed77186e9d7cd0785b3b1e3ee88b32.jpg

20200608_123613.thumb.jpg.a354b879128f12b91650d93f63900fb0.jpg

Now ready for dyno mode ?

20200608_125203.thumb.jpg.17aa97a60398fd4525affb2d6a0ebb5b.jpg

Nice Helmholtz chamber when in screamer mode, that should really negate the drone, until the gate opens that is.

Thank you to Alex and the team at Birrong Automotive for letting me use their workshop and dyno.

2bar boost just because why not, 19 degrees of timing. There's more in it, however the intake temps are kissing mid 40s with the China bing bong core. I did order a Plazmaman Pro Series but didn't come in time.

I'll grab the logs and dyno sheet off my laptop later.

20200613_103423.thumb.jpg.5086ffeed543324549b802d53b9c8185.jpg

20200613_132255.thumb.jpg.8fbc5d91f64d00e9af085f5809f23692.jpg

  • Like 6

I R GOOD GUESS.

Rear housing size looks like it worked well. 

Did you go 76 or 100mm core? Even the 76 helped a lot on the GTR and that was comparing to stock cooler which was already "decent" .

Guessing 10-20rwkw still on offer based on dataz supplied. If only 10 then my guess range still works, if more then I was wrong and I will feel so bad about it. 

  • Haha 1

I could have made it come on a bit earlier, however getting the 4 port dialled in is not fun, spent a bit of time troubleshooting it with Alex @ Birrong Automotive. It's so sensitive, even at 16hz and with a 0.5bar gate spring sub 50% duty cycle and I can command in 2bar of boost.

Dropping the solenoid frequency down to low teens caused a ripple in boost however allowed for better control.

I ended up ordering a 76mm because I am tight arse lol.

Once the cooler goes on and I try to keep the 2bar all the way to the rev limiter, I am sure that 430~440kW mark isn't far off!

Thank you for the dataz ❤️ but you know I'm going to ask to see the timing map as well lol 

In the end was the 21 degrees MBT or was there still more in it? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...