Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 8/11/2021 at 9:33 AM, Jasoncauser said:

I wish Wakefield and eastern creek were in GTS lol
Bathurst is the only Aussie track int he game
Can get them in Assetta Corsa (via download) on the PC (not console) 
 

I think it was in grid on PS4 they had Sydney Motorsport park

This nearly seems affordable (sorry about the small thumbnail, @PranK still hasn't fixed the image width size)

https://dofreality.com/

image.thumb.png.8c9cd5ecfdfad4c448483796a1f07fb3.png

On 11/08/2021 at 2:31 PM, Jasoncauser said:

you know thats only the base?
no seat, wheel, pedals etc

 

Yeah I know - full kit will still be less than me blowing up another motor LOL

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
  • 3 weeks later...

Making myself a temporary DBW patch harness.

It's nothing pro or club level, just amateur level stuff. Pulled apart Narva 7 core trailer wire and bundled up what I needed.

Still figuring out where I want certain sensors and looms run. 

Also, repurposing the old AFM and O2 wiring into an EMAP. For some reason I was under the assumption the power for the AFM is sensor +5V, clearly it isn't so have repinned the narrowband O2 input as a +5V feed for the pressure sensor.

 

 

20210829_130519.jpg

20210830_103854.jpg

20210830_114036.jpg

20210830_123614.jpg

20210828_161042.jpg

  • Like 1

And done, finished after my son went to bed.

I'm using a V35 Skyline pedal, I did have Z33 350Z one but I didn't like the alloy pedal and wanted a stock looking one.

20210830_213715.jpg

  • Like 4
On 31/08/2021 at 8:54 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

And done, finished after my son went to bed.

I'm using a V35 Skyline pedal, I did have Z33 350Z one but I didn't like the alloy pedal and wanted a stock looking one.

20210830_213715.jpg

Look at you go makin stuff!  Good job! I might go rob the neighbours Triton to war and make my own! 😂

On 31/08/2021 at 9:57 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Look at you go makin stuff!  Good job! I might go rob the neighbours Triton to war and make my own! 😂

The Asian in me didn't want to pay some auto electrician to make a temporary harness 😂

Future state, will plan out where I want everything to be, and how the cables will be routed and then will pay someone to do the full loom.

FWIW, Narva 7 core trailer wire comes with slightly smaller cable (2.5mm diameter) compared to Narva 5 core trailer wire.

A bit overkill for sensors and a DBW motor still.

 

  • Like 1

overkill is pretty much always better than under doing it when it comes to wiring!  Are you running the pedal wiring back across under the dash to the ECU and then out through the firewall or are you running some of it straight through the firewall at the pedal to the DBW motor?

  • Like 1

Wiring is going across the firewall (cabin side), then the TB wiring will come out the grommet driver side and then out through that hole where the brake master cylinder is.

I thought about using the throttle cable hole but the DBW TB plug wont fit (unless I de-pin it).

Following Haltech's instructions I ran all sensor power from the pedal & TB back to the ECU side. I've seen some harnesses where sensor power goes from ECU to pedal, then pedal to the TB. I can't see a real issue with that - however better just stick to what Haltech documents to avoid any issues.

Oh hai, I'm sure someone will ask, "why didn't you get I-Beam connecting rods?"

Simply put it, I'm not after 746kW at the wheels. There's 0 desire for it, so these Manly H-Beam connecting rods are perfect for my requirements. Not to mention they came out unscathed from cracking a block in my old motor.

Pretty excited, should be up and running soon enough 😁

 

IMG-20210831-WA0013.jpg

IMG-20210831-WA0014.jpg

  • Like 5
On 01/09/2021 at 7:52 AM, ActionDan said:

So is it not cool if I bought I Beam? 

To be fair I have 2 less cylinders to work with so need to work them harder :D

haha yes! simplified calculations puts each of your rods at 125kW, where as for me 83kW :) 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...