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On 23/05/2023 at 8:37 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Honda vibes 😎

Can't beat em, join em ay.

I saw a clip today of a civic with a k20 running 126psi boost, compound setup. Yep that's right 126psi. Freakin Honda's.

I think you need to crank that boost some more 😂

  • Haha 1
On 30/05/2023 at 11:21 PM, Kinkstaah said:

"Babe I want to run 126psi on your daily in the driveway, a guy on the internet said it was fine"

(fn2r good car do agree)

Please post video of said Honda exploding or Mrs kinkstaah wacking you across the head, 😂.

  • Haha 1
  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

This thread needs moar update!

Sure thing!

So throwing around ideas with MCA's tech support and @34GeeTeeTee and we all agreed that I needed to bump up the spring rate at the front of the car, especially with it now predominantly being used at SMSP. 

Handling wise, it is somewhat quite neutral and does what I command, however on hard braking it does tend to pitch forward quite a bit and cause the rear end to unsettle. Not what you want on a fast track like SMSP.

So yeah, going from 10kg/mm now to 13kg/mm. Will then set the front anti roll bar onto the softest setting (should have just kept the stock one to be honest. Whiteline and their marketing team are great at what they do, market things.)

(My personal opinion) it's better to adjust body roll with spring rate & dampers and only use anti roll bars to fine tune how the car rotates. They shouldn't be the primary device to improve handling.

Anyhow, turns out Matt had a set of 13kg/mm he didn't need so I took them off his hands (thanks brah). They have been sitting at the same spot for the past 2 weeks lol.

I have another track night booked 11th of July, better get off my arse lol.

PXL_20230627_2321370442.thumb.jpg.987bc3f90ba9e716c6910246f8954d8f.jpg

7 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

I had similar issues with sway bar tuning and ended up backing them right off/swapping to stock bars from other cars etc. 

 

Yeah, Whiteline are great at marketing things you don't need.

I fell for the whole get the front and rear anti roll bar package bullshit (incorrectly called sway bars) theory, just made the car twitchy as shit!

Especially when you're going hard into a corner and there's not enough spring rate and you bounce off the bump stops then you're off the track!

That's exactly what happened to me, the car would oscillate uncontrollably, dangerous AF. 

It's gotta be part of a full package. I'll be starting from scratch with the Silvia given I will be using slicks or much wider R comps this time around. 

  • Like 1
32 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Will then set the front anti roll bar onto the softest setting (should have just kept the stock one to be honest. Whiteline and their marketing team are great at what they do, market things.)

(My personal opinion) it's better to adjust body roll with spring rate & dampers and only use anti roll bars to fine tune how the car rotates. They shouldn't be the primary device to improve handling.

I think you will find Whiteline also agree with you though...

I am with you regarding the car pitching under braking, though that is still going to happen and won't just stop doing it even if you have no front suspension. Momentum is momentum.... a better driver than me would use this weight distribution to assist with turn in, which is what trail braking is all about.

Also don't slam the brakes on hard then immediately turn etc, ease in/out of the brake pedal to let suspension do suspension things. All easier said than done when approaching T1 SMSP or T1 Phillip Island or T1/T6 Sandown

  • Like 1

Have a look at what your rear wheels do under braking. When I did my suspension setup however moons ago, the rear was toeing out under brakes making the car farken scary and quite unpredictable. 
 

Assuming the HICAS is locked out (as we all know it should be because it’s junk), the movement of the lockout bar 10mm up and 10mm out fixed it.

I have the report somewhere. Could flick it to you if you’d like.

  • Like 1

properly adjusted front upper links at the rear can help with that bump steer too, adjustable arms are often installed there but not adjusted properly (because it takes some time)

  • Like 1

@Kinkstaah I'm by all means no Max Verstappen or Checo Perez, I'm just an Asian that drives better than most Asians 😂

T1 I'm ok at SMSP, it's T2 and T8 I'm feeling the effects of the pitch and have actually bounced off the bump stops (smashing the brakes doesn't help either lol).

@Piggaz I've actually shifted my entire subframe closer to the body, the LCAs now point downwards (closer to OEM geometry) and the entire HICAS junk, including the ball joints have been all deleted. I used to run total 4mm toe in to combat the toe out on squat, however now I don't need to, so it only has 2mm toe in.

@Duncan I've extended the traction rods by 15mm, which has reduced the car kicking out when power is put down around a turn. Somewhat I don't have an issue with traction or the car kicking out sideways like 95% of the RWD Nissans you see. It just hooks and takes off, even with street tyres and 437kW at the back.

The main "issue", if you even want to call it an issue, is the pitching due to the weight shift. At Wakefield it didn't seem to be much of a problem, but at SMSP you really notice it as you're going into turns at greater speeds 

@ActionDan been waiting for more development on your car! Yeah I've been following that Track Racer Australia group, good learnings from them too.

T1 may not be so bad cause I doubt people are slamming 100% brake pressure into the ground approaching it at the very last second, so the it may be benefitting from being less severe on the pedal by way of it being a fast corner.

My Sandown foibles are around it being a not-very-fast corner, over tons of bumps, at the end of a very long straight. Back end wandering around is less suitable. I am also very not-fast there (or anywhere). But I can see where going faster requires and like you say, rear end wandering around makes me think "nah, f**k that" which is not confidence inspiring if you want to also go quicker!

I found that using a BM57 really helped with this as it actually engaged my front brakes first so when it locked, it locked up the front, not the back. I don't know without looking if you have an upgraded front BBK. If you do, upgrade your BMC. Before I changed it, I was going through rear pads at 3x the rate of the front ones, on the same compound.

That said, racecars often have more brake bias at the back, because you want braking on all 4 corners to stop the car which actually helps it be more stable too 😛 

But the secret to smooth driving and confidence is smooth inputs. Especially with what is a heavy car (any road car). Hell, driving fast is really just dancing around with weight transfer, so if you imagine dancing around with a 1500KG jug of water sloshing around, Takumi style - That's the game.

  • Like 1

I find the swaybars (ARB's or whatever...) are good with a softer setup like the bilstien shocks and springs but when running a true adjustable coilover, standard ARB's are the way to go, speaking from personal experience...

  • Like 1

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