Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's not a good idea to wind up boost with the stock ecu on that engine. This street racer found out the hard way.
image.jpeg.9311301220b89692b2b21a1944fd175c.jpeg

That pic suggests not enough boost as it was just bent, not a clean break, amateur at best[emoji12]
  • Like 3
19 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

will need fill custom dose pipe, going to be hard to find a 10" pipe and bends lol

Nah, grab some huge sheetmetal and roll it.

Easy af 

On 23/02/2017 at 8:10 AM, PatMol said:

Try skylines spares in Sydney he has neos on the shelf.

Thanks Pat, that did the trick!

Just paid for a Neo long engine, wasn't cheap but hopefully it will live up to the expectation.

Man there's a Neo drought out there big time...

  • Like 1
23 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Thanks Pat, that did the trick!

Just paid for a Neo long engine, wasn't cheap but hopefully it will live up to the expectation.

Man there's a Neo drought out there big time...

So , question has to be asked....identified why you are knocking around the engine?  I  would expect a NEO to be very happy a the power level you are running

27 minutes ago, Roy said:

So , question has to be asked....identified why you are knocking around the engine?  I  would expect a NEO to be very happy a the power level you are running

Nope, we don't have a 100% clear answer at the moment. My suspicion is that what was originally identified as a blown HG (after much debate, since the evidence was inconclusive) ended up being a more sinister underlying issue with the engine. My best guess at the moment is a crack in the block but for a full diagnosis we'd have to tear down the bottom end and possibly crack test the block. I'm not interested in throwing any more good money after bad at the moment frankly, so we may be left guessing for a while.

And yes I've run it at 20psi / 275rwkw for a while, which is meant to be within the 'safe' range for a Neo. It died after about 8 track days so I'm wondering if there's a street 'safe' and a track 'safe' power level, and how different they might be... 

  • Like 1

Send me your tune file, I'll see what's going on there.

When I tune for track cars I always tune the entire mid range below MBT, taking at times 3 to 5 degrees out. This limits the amount of peak torque the motor can make thus keeping it together a little longer. Yes EGT goes up, but just richen it up close to 11 afr (on gasoline scaling) for E85. On 98RON I drop it under 11 afr. I don't aim for a flat AFR which most Internet experts like.

  • Like 1
Send me your tune file, I'll see what's going on there.
When I tune for track cars I always tune the entire mid range below MBT, taking at times 3 to 5 degrees out. This limits the amount of peak torque the motor can make thus keeping it together a little longer. Yes EGT goes up, but just richen it up close to 11 afr (on gasoline scaling) for E85. On 98RON I drop it under 11 afr. I don't aim for a flat AFR which most Internet experts like.

Thanks man will do! I've got the Consult cable but do I need a full version of the Nistune software to grab the tune?
3 hours ago, V28VX37 said:


Thanks man will do! I've got the Consult cable but do I need a full version of the Nistune software to grab the tune?

hrms.. good question, if not just do a screen shot of the timing table and roughly tell me which load cells it's hitting and/or what TP Load is roughly equal to what boost

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

hrms.. good question, if not just do a screen shot of the timing table and roughly tell me which load cells it's hitting and/or what TP Load is roughly equal to what boost

Looks like there is a trial version: https://www.nistune.com/index.php/support/software-downloads

I'll check it when I get the car back home, hopefully in two weeks or so...

Ok I may have a buyer for the original refreshed cylinder head, any tips on how to package up one properly for safe delivery?


Bubble wrap the f**k out of it.
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...