Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If serious about racing I would be looking at a quality rim, you'll be kerb hoping a bit as it is quicker in some places. I run the TE37s in 17x9 with a 255 and if I ever decide to go bigger I'll look at another set most likely.
Racing and having a reliable car ain't cheap and rough guess with what your spending on the motor, decent wheels will be a drop in the ocean and worth the investment.

  • Like 1
On 1/18/2022 at 12:36 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

If serious about racing I would be looking at a quality rim, you'll be kerb hoping a bit as it is quicker in some places. I run the TE37s in 17x9 with a 255 and if I ever decide to go bigger I'll look at another set most likely.
Racing and having a reliable car ain't cheap and rough guess with what your spending on the motor, decent wheels will be a drop in the ocean and worth the investment.

That mean's I need to save some money somewhere 😅

  • Like 1
On 1/19/2022 at 10:44 PM, MBS206 said:

Sell the children? To speed savings, just give them away for free...

Oh man if only... 

On 1/20/2022 at 12:37 AM, bcozican said:

Dont forget rotational mass weight saving is 3 to 1 also

 

But yes theoretically good, strong , light wheels for sure but also ive still buckles "best jap wheels" and sigh

The overall combo youre building is strong 💪

Yep I've been made acutely aware as I've been swapping rotors over. 

I'm inclined to just kick off with an Enkei or something and see how we go though I note HFM are doing GT-R replica forged wheels for just over 2k, but not in 18x10 or 10.5 so I've asked if they are doing anything in that size as they were seeking feedback. 

They're following me on Instagram now too after I posted about the rotors (tryna build that audience and will keep trying to help you guys build yours). 

 

  • Like 1
On 1/16/2022 at 4:44 PM, ActionDan said:

First day in 11 years and what 700hp+ or something? 

Into the weeds lol 

Yes but no. 

Start with 450hp and see how it goes. Should go alright with Z221 295 Hankooks all round.

I'm running Enkei RPF1's but reading the above might have to look at other options if I get into it again. Koya seem to have some well priced semi forged wheels.

On 1/20/2022 at 8:11 PM, SRS13 said:

Yes but no. 

Start with 450hp and see how it goes. Should go alright with Z221 295 Hankooks all round.

I'm running Enkei RPF1's but reading the above might have to look at other options if I get into it again. Koya seem to have some well priced semi forged wheels.

Got a build thread any where on this car?

 

On 1/20/2022 at 10:38 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Got a build thread any where on this car?

 

He used to be cool like that, but stopped ages ago lol

Now he occasionally, pops in here with an update.
 

  • Haha 1
On 1/20/2022 at 9:11 PM, SRS13 said:

Yes but no. 

Start with 450hp and see how it goes. Should go alright with Z221 295 Hankooks all round.

I'm running Enkei RPF1's but reading the above might have to look at other options if I get into it again. Koya seem to have some well priced semi forged wheels.

I forgot you managed to get 295s under it, that will help for sure. 

Which track you going to shake down at? 

Was looking over the car last night with a mate, and how's this.. Does that look like the bearing is leaking to you?

This hasn't even had a wheel mounted or been on the ground lol 

Reached out to Justjap to discuss. 

No description available.

Also did some shake downs on over last few days and the weekend on the rail trail with the family then on some basic trails near my place solo, was good fun. Will be doing more soon I think, just seeing what comes up sore first lol 

I live across the road from a Distillery so stopping buy for a beer or a Whiskey is a nice bonus :D

May be an image of bicycle and outdoorsMay be an image of bicycle, tree and natureMay be an image of outdoors and tree

I see what looks like oil, i dont expect oil in there, id expect grease, right? (Ive never pulled apart a sealed bearing, only ever "normal" ones that are packed with grease.)

Is it a brake line dropping oil from anywhere on it?

On 1/29/2022 at 3:29 PM, MBS206 said:

I see what looks like oil, i dont expect oil in there, id expect grease, right? (Ive never pulled apart a sealed bearing, only ever "normal" ones that are packed with grease.)

Is it a brake line dropping oil from anywhere on it?

My brake fluid is yellow, diff fluid is yellow. 

There are no other fluids in that area, there's no gearbox in the car and nothing dipping from above etc. 

JustJap are replacing it when they get stock after showing it to ZSS. 

To me it looks like when grease "sweats" and you get a thinner residue trickling down between spaces.

Picked up some slicks and borrowed some rims from a mate to do some test fitting to work out what we need to do body work/suspension wise to fit it all. 

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Alright alright alright, So test fitting last night, 18x10 ET20, 305 Pirelli Slicks. 

- Calipers cleared nicely (received my R34 GTT Caliper bolts which fit into the caliper, cannot test on knuckle yet as I still need a 14mm jobber bit)
- Shock towers fouled up front, fine out back. 
- Adjusted camber bolt in the shock mount to stand the knuckle up, not enough.
- Chucked on some little 10mm machine spacers from another project on the wheel studs to simulate ET10, and now we have this little bit of clearance shown below, is that enough? Given I will likely need to add camber for slicks I am thinking no? 
- Could extend LCA's, in y head you can do this to add camber and not change rim to shock clearance, is that correct? 
- Front fouls guard plastics during turns, but I have tubs on the way already (realised I will have less space for intake, oil cooler etc). 
- Looks like they clear at the rear of the front guards, but IO had considered cutting/folding those for air extraction (and maybe guard vents on top DTM style?)
- Rears fit fine, though the inner guard lip we trimmed back will need to be trimmed further or cut/folder and either camber added (currently -1.5) or slightly larger flares/guards fitted. 

Maybe just got 50mm widebody guards front and rear? Those flares are 25mm already and I'm not a huge fan of the bigger 50mm version, maybe they could look OK colour coded to the car when it gets painted. 

Thoughts/comments/experience welcomed. 

20220201_204944.thumb.jpg.e06a72e9ac42c078d63d41a763ac1305.jpg20220201_204929.thumb.jpg.7dd28519bff10c7cc0090e442318282c.jpg20220201_205030.thumb.jpg.ada3716ff329799f379465cdf376735f.jpg20220201_210021.thumb.jpg.bfdea0c13710c9fdbb6fe0978ac332f9.jpg20220201_204953.thumb.jpg.a0f6e0a2acf72458901cc1ac6aad3181.jpg20220201_205015.thumb.jpg.c41d472f3da5d178c712217b29762ee5.jpg20220201_203307.thumb.jpg.7f70958efb1e6ccdd0514a79e1e7e9c7.jpg20220201_203235.thumb.jpg.1de487c4d9ea56f1d257a8ffd049c97c.jpg20220201_205139.thumb.jpg.d67018906ed14a3dcd504af8ee970757.jpg

 

Edited by ActionDan

i dont mind the bigger flares look if you blend them in I had them on my rear only and got used to them pretty quickly

If you got the time, effort, money and desire I think bigger guards are the way forward

How much front camber  you got on there ? surely 4 deg ++ is needed

On 2/2/2022 at 3:23 PM, bcozican said:

i dont mind the bigger flares look if you blend them in I had them on my rear only and got used to them pretty quickly

If you got the time, effort, money and desire I think bigger guards are the way forward

How much front camber  you got on there ? surely 4 deg ++ is needed

It had -3.5 up front, but I've taken some out for clearance, though after adding the spacers I may be able to put that back. It used to max at -2.5 prior to those camber bolts.

 

I'm thinking extended LCA, but does that alter clearance to the shock or nah?

you'll need more than 3.5 deg for sure - extend the LCAs by boxing them out 20mm or I think S14 or R33 are 10 - 15mm longer standard - or both

Wont effect clearance as its pulling it from the bottom - unless you extend the LCA so much you can pull the camber across also causing some clearence but I dont think you'll get that much outta it even at max

 

 

Edited by bcozican

I have roll centre adjusting ball joints already so I was considering this.

Cheap and easy?

https://rbfactory.shop/products/d-i-y-25mm-lca-extension-set-for-silvia-s12-s13-s14-s15-180sx-cefiro-dimple-die

Edited by ActionDan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...