Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Nothing has happened for a while but it kicked off again recently. Will be same same but different. Complete PRP and MoTeC catalogue thrown at the car. Will keep you updated

The real Don Mega huh? ?

  • Like 1
On 6/23/2020 at 8:37 AM, Mick_o said:

The real Don Mega huh? ?

yeah except im not a fkn flog and pull my diddly over it on the forums. My car didnt even go to overpriced workshops in sydney so god knows how it will even make it past first start.

On 6/24/2020 at 9:00 AM, Komdotkom said:

Sounds like you are challenging me for the most overcapitalised RB20 in history.

I'm glad im not the only one wasting  spending money on these buckets

47 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

yeah except im not a fkn flog and pull my diddly over it on the forums. My car didnt even go to overpriced workshops in sydney so god knows how it will even make it past first start.

It's different when you're connected :)

I know what happens BTS.

43 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

I am also well connected ?i much prefer wasting my own time and building everything myself that wasting somebody elses time on an RB20 ? 

Funny you're still not powered by a 4G63T haha

Haha they are to reliable for me. Need that stock 30 year old Nissan 'will I make it where I'm going or will I break my oil pump halfway there' feeling to keep me comfortable. It does annoy me how quickly they spool turbos though and Benny has got them dialled.

  • Like 1

It's the stroke and the head, light years ahead of the Nissan boat anchors.

Might need your services one day to convert to DBW, install a couple of hall effect sensors and get traction control going ?

I would convert to DBW in a heartbeat if the only real option to keep the ITB setup wasnt 4k AUD. It's so so much better than cable its stupid. I have never dabbled with kebabtech traction control but with MoTeC it works flawlessly ?

On 27/06/2020 at 7:41 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

I would convert to DBW in a heartbeat if the only real option to keep the ITB setup wasnt 4k AUD. It's so so much better than cable its stupid. I have never dabbled with kebabtech traction control but with MoTeC it works flawlessly ?

There was talks of someone on this forum using the ITB DBW from a BMW on this forum, but not sure if it materialised. Maybe you can be the first hahaah

40 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

Mines just a single TB on a Plazmaman intake, not the ITB setup so it's nothing fancy. This is from last year.

JAA90yA.jpg

any particular reason for converting to DBW? do you now have cruise control or anything?

It's a race car and has Motec everything so DBW is used for idle control and I'm a big believer 'in if it's worth doing, it's worth over doing'

I wanted a forward facing TB and would have had to purchase a larger unit anyway so there was essentially no significant cost difference between DBW and a cable throttle.

  • Like 2
13 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

any particular reason for converting to DBW?

You get to piss off the idle control valve and aux air control valve (both are slow and lazy).

@Komdotkom any plans to run traction control?

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You get to piss off the idle control valve and aux air control valve (both are slow and lazy).

@Komdotkom any plans to run traction control?

Yes, it's got most of the Motec catalogue in it so runs just about everything you can think of. Just missing tyre temp sensors and suspension position sensors I think.

At the moment it runs 'traditional' Motec traction control strategy but I was considering a DBW TB in the intake pipe after the IC to bleed off boost as a form of TC which was very effective because it doesn't impact engine speed an efficiency as much as other strategies. A mate ran his IPRA car like this with excellent results.

12 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

I must win the over capitalisation contest then, my RB20 is DBW!

It makes me so mad that a genuine Bosch DBW throttle is only about $400 installed and that its 10x the price to do it on ITB, sadpanda.you go 68 or 74mm?

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

There was talks of someone on this forum using the ITB DBW from a BMW on this forum, but not sure if it materialised. Maybe you can be the first hahaah

It was Stephen from IEE and even after talking to him it was still the best part of 2.5k AUD and that was before the 'rona and AUD tanking. I just decided to absolutely tap out my M130 instead haha.

6x INJ
6x IGN
MAP
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressue
Coolant Pressure
Crankcase Pressure
Exhaust manifold backpressure
N2O bottle pressure
IAT
Compressor outlet temp
Fuel temp
Oil temp
Coolant temp
Dual knock
Cam trigger
Crank trigger (36-2 VR)
TPS
Ethanol content sensor
Turbo speed sensor
Wheel speed driven
Wheel speed front
Driver rotary - Boost 
Driver rotary - Traction
Driver momentary - N20
Elec power steering trigger
Boost control solenoid
N20 solenoid
N2O purge solenoid
MoTeC 4.9 LTC
MoTeC DHB 
 

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

Yes, it's got most of the Motec catalogue in it so runs just about everything you can think of. Just missing tyre temp sensors and suspension position sensors I think.

At the moment it runs 'traditional' Motec traction control strategy but I was considering a DBW TB in the intake pipe after the IC to bleed off boost as a form of TC which was very effective because it doesn't impact engine speed an efficiency as much as other strategies. A mate ran his IPRA car like this with excellent results.

You running M1 or gold box? Would need M150 minimum to run that or a DBW4 unit. Unless you plan to run it as an actuator on a DHB and have no feedback loop? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...