Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the airbox mod 3d printed and temporarily screwed it on as it's only minimum infill for trial. 

Fits perfectly and the cold air inlet sits just outside the main frame rail. 

Also modified the power steering reservoir by making my own bracket as it didn't clear the bonnet when closed in the stock one. 

IMG_20190301_175923.jpg

IMG_20190301_194538.jpg

IMG_20190301_194559.jpg

IMG_20190301_194515.jpg

  • Like 2

So I got it going today but have a few issues.

Turbo coolant hose has split, kinda knew it would.
Power steering keeps leaking at the pump so just going to use the old setup
Crank position sensor is throwing a code so it could be f**ked
It keeps overheating. Doesn't matter what I do, i can't get it to not overheat.

Edited by Sack87
1 hour ago, TukeH said:

Whats that strange cliking sound is? 

When the water hits the power steering belt it makes that weird noise. You can see the water spitting out of the radiator neck. Took me a few minutes to figure out what it was haha

Edited by Sack87
  • 2 weeks later...
17 hours ago, Akshunhiro said:

Nice work with the airbox. Would you mind sharing the STL? Or, can I buy one off you? My 3D printer is still waiting to be assembled haha.

Let me test it out first to see how it goes with the heat, then I'll look at selling the STL file if it doesn't melt haha

It only just fit on the Makerbot Replicator bed so yours needs to be the same size. 

So I got the coolant bled to a point where I could drive it without overheating and run the engine in for 100km.

Installed a GFB G Force 3 boost controller on a little bracket I made up that fits in the vent. I can monitor AFR later on when I put another sensor in and protect the engine incase it leans out. So many cool features with this unit. 

Also had a mate dip the grill in carbon fibre. Came out really good and matches nicely with the ARX kit. 

IMG_20190315_092023.jpg

IMG_20190315_092041.jpg

IMG_20190315_092208.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't had much luck with the car as of late. Noticed there was engine oil coming out from the bell housing and whilst under there, I also noticed oil coming from the turbo between the cartridge and turbine housing. 

Pulled the box out haphazardly as I didn't have a hoist and pulled the turbo back off too. I cut the rear main seal by accident when installing it on the stand without being able to see the back of the crank. Turbo went back to MTQ for warranty and they reckon nothing was wrong but replaced the oil seals. 

Fitted new rear main which is an absolute f**k to get in there and box and turbo back in for test drive. 

I put new viscous oil in the fan hub last night and it works/sounds like it's moving a lot of air now. Went to go for a drive, look under the car for leaks after putting it all back in andddddddd oil is pissing out of the turbo feed banjo. FML. I checked every fitting was tight before I put it back in so MTQ have done something there. 

So today I started pulling the turbo back off again to fix that. 

20 minutes ago, andynogo said:

Yeah... It's one thing after another hey. Keep on trucking- you'll get there! Half price boost night 17 April at whoop ass... Might be a few of us going...

I would but i'll be on arvo shift. I plan too make it down there soon before seasons end.

So it's back in business, no leaks so much success. 

Hob drive still says its overheating though but the gauge does not move whether it's 75 or 105.

The new fan oil helped a bit but I think it might be a faulty sensor. 

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...