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what hp should I expect


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RIP Oil pump.

Only reason I didn't blow the engine is because I drive like a granny. FFS, I just feel like selling it and be done with the sky life.

I'm bummed as hell right now.

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8 minutes ago, drunken0elf said:

RIP Oil pump.

Only reason I didn't blow the engine is because I drive like a granny. FFS, I just feel like selling it and be done with the sky life.

I'm bummed as hell right now.

Welcome to GTR ownership. Just about all GTR owners go through this at some stage or another. Cheer up, it could of been worse, you could have totalled the entire engine.

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20 hours ago, drunken0elf said:

RIP Oil pump.

Only reason I didn't blow the engine is because I drive like a granny. FFS, I just feel like selling it and be done with the sky life.

I'm bummed as hell right now.

If you bought a GTR without enough spare cash to fund an engine rebuild then you really couldnt afford it in the first place. Welcome to GTR ownership, hope you have the feeling of having money!

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If it's an engine out job or prices are stupid high, fk it i'll get it fully rebuilt. Then I'll have peace of mind and be able to park it in the driveway without cardboard underneath.

If I don't need a full rebuild, then I'll get the darn leak fixed and get all the straps and pulleys changed. Doubt they've been changed since the car left the factory.

as for cash, I do have some but I would of rather not spend a portion of it on an engine rebuild. But hey, I got a new job and I'm doing a lot of overtime. So probably my overtime will pay off everything anyways.

Edited by drunken0elf
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Oil pump is engine out, can be done in the car but requires the gearbox and all the front suspension to be removed and you may as well have pulled the engine out anyway cause it would have been faster 

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6 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

What year is your R32?  If yours still has the short nose crank, may as well have the engine pulled and get that upgraded.  

It's a november 1991.

From what I've read it's a series 2 with the design upgrades that come with it.

 

according to GTR-registry.com

BNR32-214386

GTR (series 2)

1991-11

TH1 Dark Blue Pearl

KBNR32RXFS__AA; Interior: G; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13A) Standard; (14A) Standard

Edited by drunken0elf
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Any update on the oil issue?

My R32 just got dropped off at the tuner after some bolt-ons.  She's a 1990 and still has factory head gasket and oil pump, and of course the short nose crank.  I have a new oil pressure sender installed, and I will ask the tuner to keep a close eye on the oil pressure.  Hopefully she will survive the dyno.

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6 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

Any update on the oil issue?

My R32 just got dropped off at the tuner after some bolt-ons.  She's a 1990 and still has factory head gasket and oil pump, and of course the short nose crank.  I have a new oil pressure sender installed, and I will ask the tuner to keep a close eye on the oil pressure.  Hopefully she will survive the dyno.

Currently making myself a shopping list of oem parts. I decided to not go for a rebuild as the engine sounds great and seems top shape.

It got droped off at a guy i know that is quite specialised in R32 GTR. He should be taking the block out next week. 

So far I'm going for

- oem oil pump

-oem water pump

- oem timing belt kit

once the engine is out I asked him to take a look at all the seals and gaskets and to change any that shows signs of wear/leaking and to clean the sensors and injectors. And I will also make him install a turbo timer, and to try to make the horn and right speaker work while he's got it.

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With these cars the engine has got to come out at some point in time to get major maintenance done.  I also went mostly with OEM parts, except the silicone coolant hoses at the back of block.  Those are impossible to get to with engine in, so consider replacing them.

Also consider replacing the paper throttle body gaskets from factory, they are known to blow out.  I got metal Tomei ones, and I also splurged and had the plenum powder coated while at it.

59ab77b6a30d1_TSH07-25-2017d_25.jpg.7c6f567735d697b6876bd7898b347eb5.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Hadouken said:

Turbo timer is lame.
Oem oil pump is also lame.

You're just going to break that pump again

Agree with you on the turbo timer.  But without upgrading the crank, any aftermarket oil pump is pointless, the "hardened" gear will still crack.  

Just drive like an old man, which I'm there already anyways. :6_smile:

Edited by TXSquirrel
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Each to there own and if you want to build it to factory specs that's your decision, but if the engine is out, there are a number of known weaknesses/shortcomings in the RB which could be addressed now and give yourself a great base to increase power down the track if you ever wanted to go that way.
I only say this as you said you may wish to pursue more power later down the track.
It may pay to hold off now and build it solid ready for whatever you may throw at it in the future?

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Going nuts on the oil pump with the short crank doesn't seem like a good option.

I like going oem. Oem really suits my style. The worst this car is going to see with me is probably the dyno run. I've yet to rev it past 5krpm lol.

and there's another factor. Even though i said otherwise before, I'm really thinking about selling it now. With my new job, I don't have much time anymore. I'd love to go to work with it, but I can't since it's not parked where I live and the insane traffic makes me not want to drive stickshift in a stage 2 clutch car. Stage 2 seems meaningless for aussies so heres the short definition : stiff AF.

i love the GTR tho. Trying to make this decision is killing me lol.

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No, we know what Stage 2 means.  It means nothing.  Because how many stages are there?  3?  10?

Just man up and drive a manual car in traffic.  I drive 25 km to work each morning.  It took an hour and 10 minutes the other day.  Think about that for a second.  How many times do you think I had to push the clutch in and out to achieve an average speed of <22 km/h?  Hint, it's a f**king lot.

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I have met people who went from loving their cars to hating just because they picked the wrong clutch kit.  With engine out it takes 30 minutes to change the clutch, so invest in a proper clutch kit and in your case, a kit with OEM like pressure plate, and you may just love driving her again even in bad daily traffic.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-sports-clutch-kit-copper-mix-bnr32-r33.html

 

 

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