Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You might ask Haltech what could be done to the ECU to permit the use of the PRP triggers.  It might be possible.

Yeah need to go PS2000 or Elite series is the only real option, the trigger settings for the Pro Plug-ins are hard coded (if memory serves me correctly).

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah need to go PS2000 or Elite series is the only real option, the trigger settings for the Pro Plug-ins are hard coded (if memory serves me correctly).

Yes, but my thought is that Haltech are on of those crowds that occasionally do special firmware for their ECUs, if you ask nicely enough.

19 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, but my thought is that Haltech are on of those crowds that occasionally do special firmware for their ECUs, if you ask nicely enough.

Doesn't hurt to ask I suppose :)

I know Andy at Adaptronic back in the day happily wrote custom firmware for me, top bloke!

  • 1 month later...
On 6/15/2018 at 1:23 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah need to go PS2000 or Elite series is the only real option, the trigger settings for the Pro Plug-ins are hard coded (if memory serves me correctly).

I emailed Haltech and their reply is the following

Quote

The Pro model supports the factory CAS and also the kits that use a 12x tooth crank and 1x tooth cam trigger.  So those kits look fine. 
It is just a setting in your Ecu to change it over.

 

  • 5 months later...

I cannot decide which cams to go with especially when 8474 is going to available soon. I want response but don’t want to give up all the top end.

Tomei 260Degree 10.8mm lift Intake
Tomei 260Degree 10.8mm lift Exhaust
Or
HKS V Cam Step 1 248Degree 8.6mm  Lift Intake
Mines 252Degree 10.05mm Lift Exhaust
Or
Mines 252Degree 10.05mm Lift Intake
Mines 252Degree 10.05mm Lift Exhaust
Or
Unigroup 258Degree 11mm Lift Intake
Unigroup 258Degree 11mm Lift Exhaust

Quick question, have you dat down with an engine builder and talked about what you want?

Sounds like a catalogue car that will sound cool on paper but will have a crap ton of lag and go no where fast.

 

Your head is where your power is going to be made and running cam numbers off like that doesn’t mean anything until your dead set on a turbo and a power goal. 

I spent 3 months talking to people and reading about turbo vs cam specs before I jumped in the deep end with my builder.

 

PS there was a purple r33 GTR here in NZ that was a book car and it was nothing special once you drove it, HKS here Greddy there, no power delivery 

  • Thanks 1
2 hours ago, WR33KD said:

Quick question, have you dat down with an engine builder and talked about what you want?

Sounds like a catalogue car that will sound cool on paper but will have a crap ton of lag and go no where fast.

 

Your head is where your power is going to be made and running cam numbers off like that doesn’t mean anything until your dead set on a turbo and a power goal. 

I spent 3 months talking to people and reading about turbo vs cam specs before I jumped in the deep end with my builder.

 

PS there was a purple r33 GTR here in NZ that was a book car and it was nothing special once you drove it, HKS here Greddy there, no power delivery 

Yes I have talked to a few different builders.

 

I am set on EFR 8374 1.05 or 8474 if available.

 

I’m just trying to reuse most of the parts that came with the car. And since theres no shop capable to doing any custom work over here in Hong Kong, I need to use of the shelf items aka exhaust...etc

Edited by etang789
1 hour ago, NEO25T said:

Yep can use it with platinum pro but as previously suggested I would go elite if I were u

20190123_163333.thumb.jpg.a906602072df39a93d0fae7919ac67e3.jpg

Yea I figured out that setting.

I’m leaning towards Elite but will wait until last minute to decide. Don’t want to be like last time (the build dragged on for 2 years) that Elite came out right after I finally installed the Platinum Pro...

Edited by etang789

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...