MLR's 86 not a build thread thread

[The Bogan]

1 hour ago, JZP said:

Loving this. 

Is the engine note diminished with the sound tube removed? 

The sound tube only really added sound higher in the rev range, 4k up, but it sounded weird when everything was OEM, sort of like a small air leak....at your feet, sort of.....but once I did the exhaust, header back, the exhaust was all you could hear.

Now with the sound tube gone, and the new inlet installed with all the resonators removed, I can hear the induction coming from where it's meant to come from, the engine, not my feet.

The induction isn't overly loud though, it's still got the OEM airbox which knocks out some sound, but, it's a natural sound if you get what I mean.

Sounds really good IMO, especially from around 5k up to 7k, all that NA goodness screaming of its tits.

And you really need to keep it screaming off its tits though, under 5k rpm the engine doesn't have alot going for it.

Don't get me wrong, it's "nippy" down low, but it's not until 5k rpm that the engine wakes right up.

The exhaust and intake seemed to help, but the only thing that would help more under 5k rpm would be some boost.

A good tune might help a little, but a tune on its own, without some air being jammed in, wouldn't be good bang for your buck.

Hell, from some really rough calculations, for me to get something over 200 killerwasps, and still be reliable to beat on, it would cost upward of $20k to do it right.

A nice responsive setup running around 200kw would be real sweet though.

Unfortunately I didn't find $20k under the lounge when I last looked, if,  and when I do.... you can bet that there will be some boost getting pumped in.

But I'm keeping it stock, so that's not likely to happen.....?

[admS15]

Learn to drive like this guy and you won't need boost.

[Duncan]

f**k it is boring to watch a slow car at that track*

 

*sorry if something interesting happened in the second half of the lap, I fell asleep just after honda somewhere

[admS15]

f**k it is boring to watch a slow car at that track*
 
*sorry if something interesting happened in the second half of the lap, I fell asleep just after honda somewhere

Agree, definitely boring but thats 1 quick lap for such a slow car. At the same track day, a well sorted turbo'd 86 driven by sau member miniwog only managed a second or so quicker. Time attack looking wrx's where doing mid 40's. I did 51's in my 300kw R33. A lot of us where scratching our heads. I suppose the toybarus efficiently use every single available hp.

[The Bogan]

If you want a fast car car the 86 is definitely the wrong car.

The 86 can be made faster, to a point, but it'll cost ya.

I put the 86 in the same league as the MX5, fun little beastie with limitations and compromises, I got the  86 over the MX5 because it has more space for stuff.

 

I've gone for weekend trips and there is enough room in the boot and "back seat" for my bag, and the girls 4 bags (because female), there's no way in hell I could have fit all the stuff in a MX5.

Plus I love the look of the 86, and am dumb enough to drop near on the purchase price in mods to have it the way I like.

Being dumb has its certain benifits ?

[The Bogan]

Just like Christmas morning, only I'm not drunk.

Bonus unexpected items were new swaybar links to suit the front shocks and the 20mm drop they are set to, all 86 kits get them.

Going off their fact sheet thingie, and my current ride height, 370mm front and rear, it should drop the car 20mm all round, I'm hoping it doesn't cause any clearance issues with the local speed humps, I can always lift it up a bit if needed.

Just need to find some time to get it all fitted.

I'll need to look at rear camber after that, the cheap option is adjustable bushes, but they only give +/- 0.75°, the other option is LCA, lots of adjustment and some come with adjustable toe arms, I'm not sure if I'll need them though,  I'm hoping I can zero the toe with the OEM limited adjustability, I'll just wait and see where the camber and toe sit after the install.

At this stage I'm looking to get -1.75° front and -1.0° rear, with 0 toe everywhere, castor is not adjustable,  I have no idea if this will actually work well though, proof will be how the thing feels and tyre wear, f**k, who am I kidding, I'm going with blind luck at this stage.

I'll then test and adjust with my limited skill and poor driving technique.

Rock and roll ?

[JZP]

On 8/30/2018 at 6:54 PM, mlr said:

The sound tube only really added sound higher in the rev range, 4k up, but it sounded weird when everything was OEM, sort of like a small air leak....at your feet, sort of.....but once I did the exhaust, header back, the exhaust was all you could hear.

Now with the sound tube gone, and the new inlet installed with all the resonators removed, I can hear the induction coming from where it's meant to come from, the engine, not my feet.

The induction isn't overly loud though, it's still got the OEM airbox which knocks out some sound, but, it's a natural sound if you get what I mean.

Sounds really good IMO, especially from around 5k up to 7k, all that NA goodness screaming of its tits.

And you really need to keep it screaming off its tits though, under 5k rpm the engine doesn't have alot going for it.

Don't get me wrong, it's "nippy" down low, but it's not until 5k rpm that the engine wakes right up.

The exhaust and intake seemed to help, but the only thing that would help more under 5k rpm would be some boost.

A good tune might help a little, but a tune on its own, without some air being jammed in, wouldn't be good bang for your buck.

Hell, from some really rough calculations, for me to get something over 200 killerwasps, and still be reliable to beat on, it would cost upward of $20k to do it right.

A nice responsive setup running around 200kw would be real sweet though.

Unfortunately I didn't find $20k under the lounge when I last looked, if,  and when I do.... you can bet that there will be some boost getting pumped in.

But I'm keeping it stock, so that's not likely to happen.....?

Ahh, so it sounds like it should. I’ve got an na8 mx5 with intake,  headers and exhaust. Sounds like an angry bumble bee all the time. It’s fun for a while, but Shits me on long journeys. And yes, additional space would be nice. Lucky it’s just my backup car. 

[The Bogan]

10 hours ago, JZP said:

Ahh, so it sounds like it should. I’ve got an na8 mx5 with intake,  headers and exhaust. Sounds like an angry bumble bee all the time. It’s fun for a while, but Shits me on long journeys. And yes, additional space would be nice. Lucky it’s just my backup car. 

Yeah, sounds similar to my NB with the same mods.

The 86 is way less intrusive, but, it still has the stock headers which has a cat, the front pipe also has a cat, albeit a high flow one.

I've heard a 86 with an aftermarket header and no cats, it was obnoxiously loud, and the drone inside the cabin was horrendous.

[The Bogan]

So the MCA traction mod is in.

Took the car for a spin around the local circuit, arse seems to stay more planted, you can hear the tyres struggling for purchase on tight corners when I'm up it, but the car is less prone to snap oversteer, when I thow it in hard on the gas, LOL, "throw it hard"... to get the arse out a bit, it's much more smoother it seems.

Anyways, it's nothing magical, but it is better than what it was.

Hearing the tyres wheel spin a bit bitting for traction is much better than the quite "86's on ice", feeling it was previously.

Only took 1 whiskey to do it to.

Coils in and alignment next.

[The Bogan]

And there in.

Front needs to go down 5mm and the bum up 10mm to get the suggested 350 all round.

Even with my rough attempt at an even alignment at the front the car is already feeling much better, compliance is as good as OEM, I'll get the heights sorted tomorrow maybe, I'll then get an alignment and see what's what.

[The Bogan]

Alignment done, $55 at JAX Liverpool.

I ended up asking for -2° at the front and trying for 0 toe everywhere.

Turns out there was enough adjustability in the rear toe wise after the drop, so no issues there.

The rear was a surprise, with the non-adjustable camber, with the OEM shocks, my rear camber was -1.2° L and -1.75° R, now with the new coils and drop it ended up -2.2 L & R, winning.

I'm going to see how that feels and try and see how the tyre sits with it, just need to wait for some good weather and then hit some twisties.

In the end I may not need rear LCA after all, I was initially wanting them to even out the camber and was thinking around -1.5° for the rear,  maybe, the proof will be in the pudding.

Although, with my limited driving "skills" and the car really only seeing street duties, I'm not sure I would notice a change of 0.5° either way.

 

[The Bogan]

The difference between the OEM shocks and the MCA ones are chalk and cheese, I'm totally happy with the cars handling now.

As for what's next, nothing really, unless I find $20k under the lounge cushions that is.

[The Bogan]

So, I've been looking at stuff to do prior to getting the thing tuned, I'll be going to Pulse, ECUTEK, rev match, FFS, launch control, LOL, that's gonna cost around $1400ish.

So, as it is staying NA for rhe foreseeable future I've been looking at headers and overpipe.

Talking to a guy at work that has a 86 and has done alot of mucking around IRT headers and overpipes, he initially just got a tune and found some good midrange and a little up top, he then knocked out the cat in the header (they have one in the header and one in the front pipe) and got it retuned for much better midrange and slightly more gains everywhere else.

He then got a aftermarket header and overpipe, cost him around $1500 after coating, the things made a whopping bugger all difference to power.

It did see gains, but only a few hp up top, and a couple, I think he said 3 more torques in the midrange.

So, spend $1500 on a header and overpipe for minimal gains (which may, or may not get replaced with a turbo manifold down the track), plus, the cost of the tune, OR............

I have a couple of days off this week, I have a minicat O2 spacer, a drill, a long 1/2" drill bit, a hammer, a chisel, a respirator, a fridge full of JD cans and a first aid kit full of bandages.

Cry havoc, unleash the dogs of war.

[The Bogan]

So, I was given a free day off at work.

Changed the diff and box oil, finally.

While it was on stands I did the engine oil, after filling I realised I forgot to swap my sump plug with my Fumoto drain valve, doih, next time eh.

I also killed all the kittens and butterflies.

So far so good.

Just need to get it tuned now.

?????

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

2 hours ago, mlr said:

Just need to get it tuned now.

?????

with a turbo kit

[The Bogan]

40 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

with a turbo kit

And a built engine, and everything else for it to be reliable'ish

 

Cost, which is around 20k minimum, is significant

 

I could turbo it, but limit it, but where would the fun be in that.

 

If I do end up forcing air down its guts it gonna be done right, "apparently" the drivetrain is questionable over 300 torques, over that and the gear box is a consumable item, so that would be my limiting factor.

 

I'm still learning what breaks these things, alot more research is needed before dropping a ton of cash on it, only to have it break down the track isn't something I'm looking for.

 

I do think about it, alot, LOL

 

Unless you give me 30k, I'll do it then, and let you do a big skid in it..........

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

http://www.pureautomotiveperformance.com/product/pure-2jz-swap-toyota-86-plug-play-package-motec-m130-stand-alone-obsidian-motorsports-group/

+ motor, box, fab work

Would be great fun

 

[The Bogan]

37 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

http://www.pureautomotiveperformance.com/product/pure-2jz-swap-toyota-86-plug-play-package-motec-m130-stand-alone-obsidian-motorsports-group/

+ motor, box, fab work

Would be great fun

 

Engineering IRT emissions compliance would be a major hurdle I would assume with a 2J, plus adding a rebuilt motor and fab and box and other stuff??????

 

The latest LS would be sweet, I looked into it but the total price https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/6-litre-ls-swapped-toyota-86-street-car is rather large.

Hence, just build the FA20 to the point where it doesn't eat the drivetrain.

I've rode in a 86 with 200kwatw, it was fun, 250 or 300, that would be much...funner.....

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Now that conversion would be fun, put a dirty cam on it.

Brap Brap Brap Brap lol

[The Bogan]

OEM gearbox is rated to 250nm.

No wonder all the base supercharger and turbo kits are designed around 160-170 kw-200nm

Small supercharger (sprintex) with its smoother, and lower torque delivery (cool blower noise, which is mucho importanto)?

Small turbo to hit my limited power goal and still be efficient (cool pigeons and sneezing noises, again with the mucho importanto)?

Still, lots of money to make a maximum addition of 50 torques and around 160-170 kwatw

The weakness of the drivetrain has now become the sticking point, and thus, the limiting factor IRT end power goals

My initial budget calcs were well flawed, I would need to factor in built box and some axles, maybe some other sh i t.....arrrrgggggg

Power is no fun when the car breaks all the time, I still have a eye twitch from the R33 I had

Shit f**k