Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

has anybody looked into remapping the ECU to run on a lower pump gas (maybe to switch hi/low depending on petrol prices!)

SYD is hitting $1.80L for 98 now so its becoming an issue. Also just ho much power would we really lose ?  20kw?  drop the 0-100 by a few hundredth of a second? (do you have any references to the impacts here?)

I looked on the web and read in the USA that the SpecialityZ shop with the Guru Seb tunner (a Guy) does make many maps using Uprev Pro Tuner. On their home page SAS is shown as the NSW dealer (David - He helped with my 200sx mapping years ago)

http://uprev.com/secure/dealers

I might ping him and see if its possible. Might also see if a E98 map could also be added for a bit more than 245 Kw ;)  hehehe

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475105-detune-v36-to-run-on-unleaded-91/
Share on other sites

it's tuned for 95 and can run on 91 but only recommend for short periods. Maybe a tank or 2.

It wont burn as clean and things get dirty over time.

you might lose 5kw. thats a guess

You would need to know exactly why 95 is specified.

In some cases it is due to the requirement for low sulphur fuel (our 91 has a max of 150ppm, 95 or 98 has a max of 50ppm).

Usually it is due to compression ratio, which is why the manual will often state to avoid full throttle if you need to use 91 in an emergency.

You can't 'tune' the compression ratio, you would need to modify the engine to reduce compression which would make the whole process cost prohibitive.

Hi Sonicii

True, cant reduce 11:1 compression on these  (check new QX50 variable compression block that does adjust bottom end cycle - wow)

From what I read on 307Z forum, its just cam timing to reduce valves/charge and retard. See all the maps people are running here

http://www.the370z.com/tuning/34422-what-maps-everyone-uprev-tune-running.html

PS Dave at SAS quoted 1500 to remap with dyno work and petrol swaps inclusive.

You want to spend 1500 bucks to let you use a fuel that's 20c a liter cheaper... in other words you need to buy 7500L of fuel to make it worth while, which means assuming you're getting 10L/100km thats 75000km to make it worth while. Doesn't make sense to me

And you have less power and would actually have slightly worse fuel economy that would mean it'd take even more km to break even.
 

  • Like 4
  • Haha 2

If you can't afford to run it on 98 RON, sell it and buy something more economical.
I run my daily on 98 (turbo Subaru), times are tough but if you want to drive something that run on 98, too bad.

I'm considering getting a Leaf in a few years' time.

  • Like 2

Just run it on united e10 (95 octane) just dont go ringing its neck everywhere and understand that it wont run as crisp as the ecu will most probably start retarding the timing.

Otherwise buy yourself a commodore, feed it 91 and thrash its tits off [emoji3]

Is it really so expensive?  

If you cant afford to buy 98octane then sell nissan and buy prius. 

Here in Finland, gasoline costs more than 1.7€L(2.75aud) have said that when gasoline costs more than 2€L (3.24aud) so only friends drive their cars?

21 hours ago, V35_Paul said:

it's tuned for 95 and can run on 91 but only recommend for short periods. Maybe a tank or 2.

It wont burn as clean and things get dirty over time.

you might lose 5kw. thats a guess

I would refrain from spreading misleading facts.

It requires 95RON+ to suppress knock not because it needs "clean" fuel, nothing about it won't burn as clean and things get dirty over time.

You might lose 10~30kW because you've go past MBT and/or in knock territory.

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would refrain from spreading misleading facts.

It requires 95RON+ to suppress knock not because it needs "clean" fuel, nothing about it won't burn as clean and things get dirty over time.

You might lose 10~30kW because you've go past MBT and/or in knock territory.

Yeah.. I get a bit sick of saying this.  RON is a measurement of the fuel's resistance to knock or self detonation, in Australia there is also a considerably lower allowable level of sulphur in premium fuels, other than that, there is no difference beside what individual fuel suppliers may or may not decide to add to their premium fuels.

I'm also not sure about the newer versions of the VQ, but the DE does not 'adjust' to low octane fuels.  If it detects knock, it switches to a 'knock map' for timing and richens the fuel mix.  It is a safety mechanism to try to prevent engine damage, not a tuning mechanism.

As you can see, MyBrains, you're looking at this all wrong.

Remapping an ECU is not a cheap task, even if you can get your hands on a generic map to avoid the dyno. The math dispels any theory for cost savings.

The engine is mechanically set up to perform. If you're actually prepared to lose even 10kW of performance, then you really don't want or need a performance vehicle. Obviously, there's no point in doing an engine swap to an SR20DE (HA!) because of the math we spoke of before.

So that leaves you with a few options:
Drive with a much lighter foot
Sell the car and downgrade to a less-thirsty vehicle
Rip the motor and drivetrain out and pedal it like Fred Flintstone

That's the reality. Personally, I'm not made of money and I'm not happy about the rising fuel costs but I love my car too much to give up anything about it and potentially damage it.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/9/2018 at 8:18 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would refrain from spreading misleading facts.

It requires 95RON+ to suppress knock not because it needs "clean" fuel, nothing about it won't burn as clean and things get dirty over time.

You might lose 10~30kW because you've go past MBT and/or in knock territory.

clean fuel?? who's using dirty fuel?

98 is $1.64 at Cross Roads Costco, $1.60 BP Villawood ATM 

Get the "petrol spy" app or simular

In the end owning a car is expensive, sell car and pick something within your  budget.

My 86 uses 9L of 98 per 100km, I thrash it everywhere, and yes it is as slow as 10 slow things, but it is as fun as 10 fun things, and it's cheap to run.

Buy a VW Golf  or GTI or Tiguan MK2

I have the latter, I forget I even have a Skyline at home.

Newer DI turbo charged motors are so efficient at making power, torque and of course speed. 

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Must have had 5 blocked injectors!  My RB20 routinely used 12 - 13 in traffic.  And by "traffic" I mean, 50+ minutes to drive 25 km.

100% stock but with a NEO6 turbo, it's off boost most of the time.
Seriously, easily got 600km out of a tank.
And I was driving across Sydney.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...