Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ITBs are much snappier (throttle response) than a big open plenum - hence why the 26 had them in the first place.  Realistically, on an RB20, it is nothing more than a looks cool / internet points type of thing than being of any usefulness.  Doesn't really affect how much power or torque you can make.

13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

ITBs are much snappier (throttle response) than a big open plenum - hence why the 26 had them in the first place.  Realistically, on an RB20, it is nothing more than a looks cool / internet points type of thing than being of any usefulness.  Doesn't really affect how much power or torque you can make.

So realistically its not even going to help with response on an RB20? I wonder why people do it at all? Ive seen plenty in Japan and found several companies that make full adaptor plate sets to bolt it on directly.

Edited by Hcr32typem
Shpelling arrors... :p

I did it on my car and while i don't regret doing it i would not do it again or recommend it to others. If i had my time over i would have gone plazmaman top half and a DBW throttle 100%. 

Do not, and i repeat, do not buy the OtakuGarage adapter plate. It looks great but the f**king around required getting it to (barely) fit is nothing short of a nightmare and requires a lot of custom fabricaiton to be done. Who else out there is offering an adapter kit?

 

rb26.JPG

  • Like 2
18 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

I did it on my car and while i don't regret doing it i would not do it again or recommend it to others. If i had my time over i would have gone plazmaman top half and a DBW throttle 100%. 

Do not, and i repeat, do not buy the OtakuGarage adapter plate. It looks great but the f**king around required getting it to (barely) fit is nothing short of a nightmare and requires a lot of custom fabricaiton to be done. Who else out there is offering an adapter kit?

 

rb26.JPG

It does look very nice those. ?

17 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

I did it on my car and while i don't regret doing it i would not do it again or recommend it to others. If i had my time over i would have gone plazmaman top half and a DBW throttle 100%. 

Do not, and i repeat, do not buy the OtakuGarage adapter plate. It looks great but the f**king around required getting it to (barely) fit is nothing short of a nightmare and requires a lot of custom fabricaiton to be done. Who else out there is offering an adapter kit?

 

rb26.JPG

The on i found i liked in particular is a TS Factory part from Japan

1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Got a link to it?

http://ts-factory-hp.com/product.html

Its the third product down on the left. 

Im mostly interested if its more responsive mainly because the build on my Type M is to make 220kw or so but have much better response. I live in the mountains and having a super responsive package is ideal for the roads i drive.

To repeat, ITBs can in no way affect the type of "response" that most people mean when talking about turbos.  The "response" of a turbo engine is usually assumed to mean where the boost threshold is or how laggy it is (which are not the same thing).  It is not usually meant to refer to the throttle response.  ITBs are all about throttle response.  The reason they are so snappy is simply because the volume of inlet runner downstream from the throttle plates is much smaller and the effect on the flowrate is therefore that much faster.  In the order of 1 or 2 tenths of a second though....not hundreds of rpm like with turbo response.

3 hours ago, Hcr32typem said:

http://ts-factory-hp.com/product.html

Its the third product down on the left. 

Im mostly interested if its more responsive mainly because the build on my Type M is to make 220kw or so but have much better response. I live in the mountains and having a super responsive package is ideal for the roads i drive.

if you want response you're going to need a twin scroll, twin gate, divided rear housing setup. ITBs don't just magically give you unicorn response, what you do get is a tiny bit better transient response. 

Also On a RB20 going to a RB26 ITB you're going to actually degrade your mid range torque as well, and the bonus a laggier turbo.

14 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

if you want response you're going to need a twin scroll, twin gate, divided rear housing setup. ITBs don't just magically give you unicorn response, what you do get is a tiny bit better transient response. 

Also On a RB20 going to a RB26 ITB you're going to actually degrade your mid range torque as well, and the bonus a laggier turbo.

So realistically its more or less useless haha. 

23 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

if you want response you're going to need a twin scroll, twin gate, divided rear housing setup. ITBs don't just magically give you unicorn response, what you do get is a tiny bit better transient response. 

Also On a RB20 going to a RB26 ITB you're going to actually degrade your mid range torque as well, and the bonus a laggier turbo.

This is exactly what i have.

RB20 with twin scroll manifold, twin scroll rear housing, twin wastegates and even some EFR magicness. And RB26 ITB's. I promise you it's not worth the money lol, ask me how i know.

 

  • Haha 1
This is exactly what i have.
RB20 with twin scroll manifold, twin scroll rear housing, twin wastegates and even some EFR magicness. And RB26 ITB's. I promise you it's not worth the money lol, ask me how i know.
 
How?[emoji854]
  • 1 year later...
On 11/5/2018 at 8:43 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

I did it on my car and while i don't regret doing it i would not do it again or recommend it to others. If i had my time over i would have gone plazmaman top half and a DBW throttle 100%. 

Do not, and i repeat, do not buy the OtakuGarage adapter plate. It looks great but the f**king around required getting it to (barely) fit is nothing short of a nightmare and requires a lot of custom fabricaiton to be done. Who else out there is offering an adapter kit?

 

rb26.JPG

Sorry for bumping and old post. Just wondering if you or anyone else has any experience in using this adapter plate. If so what were the main hurdles needed to get it to work.  

  • 7 months later...

Now I understand. 

Copied from my build thread on Zilvia

 

 

So. As the saying goes, bolt on is never truly bolt on. 

This post will detail the mission, rather exercise in frustration that is getting ITBs to fit with the Otaku RB20DET adapter plates. People who have used them have just said that they are tough to get to work correctly but dont offer any details in what the process actually was. 

To start,  I would like to add that they were quick to answer any questions I had over instagram and this isnt a stab at them or anything.

When I had mocked everything up on the stand there was a huge interference in between the coolant passage on the Rb26dett intake manifold and where the thermostat would like to live. Turns out that even with the proper parts it would be a game of Millimetres to get everything to play nice.

49390175162_de1d046a58_c.jpg

Otaku instructed to get an RB30 thermostat housing for more clearance and to modify the lower coolant passage.

50008900826_5eff986d32_c.jpg

I marked in black the areas I needed to further modify the thermostat housing.

50037178672_3280185f34_c.jpg

Modified the coolant passage and machined down the lower screw boss to get it to clear the thermostat housing. Just clears as is but still no room for the lower rad hose. 

50034814611_a7de0ee34f_c.jpg

50035074822_0ae5f9517a_c.jpg

Got the thermostat housing cut and angled down to free up some more space. Also you can see I had to countersink the top bolt hole as well. Everything finally clears. Time for "final" assembly.

50036925211_75beb3ee49_c.jpg

I also drilled out the threads marked with the "X" this is to allow the fastener to go through both plates into the block. I was concerned that the small area around the front water port wouldn't seal correctly.

50043705136_21b96abee4_c.jpg

I made a gasket to go inbetween the two plates and used a light buttering of RTV to make sure everything is sealed correctly. I completed the assembly with an HKS RB26dett intake manifold gasket set. 

50043705121_57fb826e2f_c.jpg

50043705131_8e084c575b_c.jpg

Those are the main hurdles in getting the otaku ITB adapter kit to work on RB20det. I can see why people knock on the kit because its pretty fiddly and doesnt fit out of the box.

Now I dont know yet if it leaks or anything. This was just to make it all  physically fit. 

 

 

 

Edited by Jordie Lewis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...