Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone done a back to back dyno comparison on changing the rear housing over, i have had a good trawl of the forums and can't find anything within the last 10 years. 

Currently have a .84 on RB28 doing 800whpish at 30psi however it has hit a bit of a wall, looking at going to 1.0 or 1.15 to make slightly more top end.  

Current graph below don't mind loosing a small amount of that midrange ?

IMG-20190329-WA0024.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476580-rb28-6466-ar-change/
Share on other sites

On 4/9/2019 at 6:17 AM, GTScotT said:

Firstly, do your cams and head allow for more?

By my eye I think the nose over is more mechanical than it is in the turbine housing.

Winding more boost in just resulted in it dropping off in the top end, leading to believe back pressure is the issue from the rear housing. 

Cams are HKS 272's minor touch up work in the head to accommodate the new cams. 

 

Really keen to follow the rear housing comparison as the turbo needs to be rebuilt in anycase, so is cheap top end power but I want to see at what cost of the bottom end in rpm terms. 

A chap I know has tried all of them, actually just tuned a car running a 6466 with a 1.00 and is looking at going 1.15 - said the difference in flow between .84 and 1.00 is significant in itself, picked up a LOT of power "pound for pound" when going north of 20psi and only lost about 200rpm on a stock stroke RB26.  It's holding peak power at around 8000rpm with the RB26 at ~650awkw on a Dynapack on E85.   He is pretty certain the 1.00 is a better balance of response versus power than the .84 even on an RB26.

 

 

  • Like 2

My setup has the same issue with the 1.00 6466 choking the 3.4lt.  705whp at 5500 rpm till redline.  It seemed the hot side was just completely maxed out, at 30psi.

I've got 1.3 housing here to go on the car which should really liven it up in top end and make it a little less savage in mid range.

  • Like 2
On 4/11/2019 at 4:21 AM, Lithium said:

A chap I know has tried all of them, actually just tuned a car running a 6466 with a 1.00 and is looking at going 1.15 - said the difference in flow between .84 and 1.00 is significant in itself, picked up a LOT of power "pound for pound" when going north of 20psi and only lost about 200rpm on a stock stroke RB26.  It's holding peak power at around 8000rpm with the RB26 at ~650awkw on a Dynapack on E85.   He is pretty certain the 1.00 is a better balance of response versus power than the .84 even on an RB26.

 

 

would love to see some graphs if available 

  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, 33GTRV said:

I have a 2.8 with a .84, it's a f**king weapon on the street mate, are you racing the car? I have a conservative 500awkw and I regularly get turfed from the track even on a roll through. 

car has gone 9.6 @ 146mph 

In terms of goals it is pretty much done, however it looks like we are leaving some power on the table. 

 

car gets used for everything from circuit / drags / runway racing and streeted so is an allrounder. I don't mind loosing a small amount of bottom end for top end gain, however just trying to quantify the impact. Sending the turbo off for rebuild shortly, will more than likely just do it.  

 

 

149 mate. 140 to 144 with street suspension, 149 and as high as 151 with bone stock suspension and a good wheel alignment. The track here is very very very good to the 1/8th, one of the fastest in the southern hemisphere, which suits the datsun well. What suspension are you using? 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/22/2019 at 10:48 AM, 33GTRV said:

149 mate. 140 to 144 with street suspension, 149 and as high as 151 with bone stock suspension and a good wheel alignment. The track here is very very very good to the 1/8th, one of the fastest in the southern hemisphere, which suits the datsun well. What suspension are you using? 

interesting what times did you trap also? do you have the slip? keen for more details on your car to compare notes, do you have a build thread? 

  • 3 years later...

Bringing this bad boy thread back from the dead. I'm just about to purchase a 6466 and I'm also stuck between ordering a .84 or a 1.0. 

I was leaning towards a 1.0ar but being that I'll be running on pump gas + meth as opposed to E85, I'm worried about spool. This is on a 2.8 with VCT, 272 cams and a fair bit of porting. Goal is 600wkw on a mainline dyno.

The .84 rear on my stock bottom end 2.6 with vcam and e85 was all in at 4,100 and was an absolute weapon on the street, I only used the high boost twice and once it tried to kill me (turned out to be a transfer issue) 

  • Like 1
On 23/9/2022 at 9:17 AM, TurboTapin said:

Bringing this bad boy thread back from the dead. I'm just about to purchase a 6466 and I'm also stuck between ordering a .84 or a 1.0. 

I was leaning towards a 1.0ar but being that I'll be running on pump gas + meth as opposed to E85, I'm worried about spool. This is on a 2.8 with VCT, 272 cams and a fair bit of porting. Goal is 600wkw on a mainline dyno.

1.00 or 1.15.

 

  • Like 1

No smaller than 1.00 on 6466. Dont worry the 1.00 a/r is not too big, I'm  running on both the 32s. Stock cams and 2.6 or the 2.8 and big cams are both great to drive as it's just such a flexible turbo.

  • Like 1

I lost nothing going to a 1.15 and did just over 600kw on E85 so you should be fine

 

I am actually moving to a smaller 6062 turbo shortly if you want to buy my 6466 with a .84 and 1.15 housing, it was rebuilt by precision in america in feb this year, been used about twice since.

I am going smaller as i am doing more rallysprint style stuff these days, and can get alot more down low and 500kw from a 6062 which is what we need for rallysprint.

 

  • Like 1
22 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

I lost nothing going to a 1.15 and did just over 600kw on E85 so you should be fine

 

I am actually moving to a smaller 6062 turbo shortly if you want to buy my 6466 with a .84 and 1.15 housing, it was rebuilt by precision in america in feb this year, been used about twice since.

I am going smaller as i am doing more rallysprint style stuff these days, and can get alot more down low and 500kw from a 6062 which is what we need for rallysprint.

 

Thanks for the info. I would buy it from you but I'm presuming you're not anywhere close to Canada and shipping would put your price into new turbo territory. 6466's are had here for 2650$CDN new to the door. Let me know, thanks. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...