Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hows things going in your area with all the weirdness.....theres no virus in our area at all no cases we are all on lock d tho…cheers hope all is well m8 with car and life!

14 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

hows things going in your area with all the weirdness.....theres no virus in our area at all no cases we are all on lock d tho…cheers hope all is well m8 with car and life!

Yeah, I work in the Healthcare industry so it's definitely getting interesting. I imagine I will begin working from home sometime soon. I feel pretty lucky I have a Gov job so work is not an issue for me, however $$ is still tight with a mortgage, car loan, bills etc so GTR progress is going to be slow.

I have the complete exterior now, so just prepping the shell for blasting and primer which is the next step. Then it will probably sit in that stage for a year while I slowly build a motor haha.

Definitely need some extra curricular activities to generate some side cash for the build. Just not sure what to do yet. 

right on m8. I have a tree company back home and calls have slowed right down. days we aren't cutting just staying hanging out with my 2 year old. my 32 is getting all new weather stripping and paint right now pretty pumped about that but no car to work on ha...stay safe over there buddy and keep taking your time on your build you got  a good thing going on, imagine the feeling when you turn the key on that old girl:)

  • 2 months later...

Been a hot minute since I've updated the thread, or done a whole lot on the GTR truth be told, however some pretty big progress was made over the weekend. 

Got a few mates over to do some final preperations before blasting.

20200531_120701.thumb.jpg.aeabe40453d2d57ab002e09b6b5e8688.jpg

20200531_162825.thumb.jpg.fe36edacba92f044012e78277b8a8160.jpg

20200531_162833.thumb.jpg.36516019ab8388e63d21f4254878a6af.jpg

20200531_162846.thumb.jpg.a069d8734237baedc04b9f33606e3d3d.jpg

20200531_162900.thumb.jpg.2a03646eb96c0d6e308aca8ca803f28a.jpg

 

20200531_162904.thumb.jpg.e1258a6f606aed0b4915afcf32ba48d2.jpg

20200531_162910.thumb.jpg.8eed14061afeb62301ae8f008421a501.jpg

20200531_162934.thumb.jpg.c528c14a57e81b199769e8a7080c61d0.jpg

20200531_163608.thumb.jpg.17df374ca052485feba9d2f3915621dc.jpg

20200601_084333.thumb.jpg.a54d72a78ef588e7fe76027518dfdb83.jpg

20200601_084302.thumb.jpg.5305a719ea737709efe51a08ceee7738.jpg

 

20200601_091619.jpg

  • Like 1

Next step is to chuck the subframes back in to make the shell roll again, then off to a big repair shop to go on the car-oliner and get some things checked. There is a very slight kink where it looks like one of the rear tow hooks was bumped and or reversed into something. 

Also there is a dint in the sill from god knows what that needs to be pulled back down. The painter is going to tackle the rest of the body work and straighten the lower rad support bar which you can see has a few dints in it.

 

20200603_124457.thumb.jpg.0d012c8a2151fbfca051f6a87c701f59.jpg

20200603_124155.thumb.jpg.d6adb8f705f06067294c86584cde18ae.jpg

20200603_124516.thumb.jpg.bba2e9c5c66c299a0330239b7f8cde52.jpg

20200603_124533.thumb.jpg.90e1a3feb2410c357a05129dd4f1c9ed.jpg

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up both a 26 bottom end and a head in the last fortnight. Both need work but will still work out heaps cheaper than buying a together motor. 

Going to need a gearbox soon!

 

20200610_221022.thumb.jpg.95cfacbea49a7f17507c990946fb2c65.jpg

20200610_221104.thumb.jpg.f4ecf19484f2b03c01a565722f456299.jpg

 

20200611_194104.thumb.jpg.6c001d1893a4c9f9ec6c70c059dc7fab.jpg

 

20200611_194121.thumb.jpg.120df4b818d329d880d1bbd10ffafcc4.jpg

 

20200617_223913.thumb.jpg.0e23eb66d15f60dfe1a2dd39263069f1.jpg

 

20200617_224011.thumb.jpg.df32f53da198911df10d48cd307ca5a8.jpg

 

20200617_223623.thumb.jpg.8fdd47aee806341008929db4aa53ca27.jpg

 

20200617_223717.thumb.jpg.c9a910184d03c808cef1cdc0d49683dd.jpg

 

20200617_223659.thumb.jpg.e3dad169a5c366a4d729eba26a904e4d.jpg

Edited by Tenny

Stock bottom end direct from what seems to be a relatively low km 32 that had stock turbos etc. No cracks around the head studs or common spot near oil feed. Still has the stock headgasket. 

Unfortunately it spun no 1 rod bearing and looks like two was starting as well. Hopefully comes out with a linish, however will see. it may need a grind.

 

Head has been ported both intake and exhaust, has been machined for high lift cams and is cut for 0.5mm oversized valves, along with bronze guides etc. Unfortunately, similar issue to the bottom end and both E1 and I1 cam journals have suffered poor oil supply and started to melt the alloy. It was cheap enough that even getting it repaired i'll be ahead of what a stock one costs these days. Currently trying to find a shop that is confident and has tunnel bored DOHC heads before that can get this one spick and span. Is anyone familiar with the process and can give me a run down on it?

 

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Unfortunately the goings on have been very slow. Progress has stalled for the last 6 months nearly waiting for a body shop to commit to the job. 

Finally got a shop organised but it has been on their rack for over a month now. Times are busy and funds are low so not too stressed but it's not fun. 

In other news I purchased another rb25 swapped 32 which I'm going to be fixing up and flipping to use the profit on the gtr. 

 

20201013_132254.jpg

20201013_132244.jpg

20201024_162226.jpg

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...