Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brembo's fitted and dummied up the new intake and intercooler pipes.

Will tack the pipes next weekend and get onto the catch can mounts and lines.

Also looked at a mates GTR fuel lines, decided I'm going to redo the fuel lines in the engine bay before tuning.

 

Hopefully fire it up the last weekend of June.

IMG_20200614_132148.jpg

IMG_20200614_154652.jpg

IMG_20200614_154858.jpg

Edited by Wheezy
  • Like 1

I booked the tune for July 21.
The new ECU is being sent here along with wide band, air temp and 4bar map sensor.
I will install it all prior to the tune, so about 4-5 weekends of solid work on my hands.
 

I remade the fuel lines to the rail as I wasn't happy with them and based it off a mates GTR who has comparable power levels.

I fitted my hose separators and made up the catch can lines, I'm getting quite fond of 200 series now.
The catch can previously sat on the battery tray which is now gone, so made some brackets to mount it.
I might remake one of the brackets as the catch can sits on a slant due to the engine bay shape.

IMG_20200620_171628.jpg

IMG_20200620_171633.jpg

IMG_20200620_171639.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...

The Emtron is wired up & can bus working thanks to my brother in law.
Seems to be doing it's thing, the Emtron is a vastly different beast to the old PowerFC.

Put some oil in it and the engine turned over which is promising.

 

I didn't get to start the car this weekend as we found a water leak on the intake near 1&2, so I need to take a look at that before firing it up as I want to be 100% sure everything is kosher.

Since I cannot see the leak the intake chamber and throttles will have to come out at the very least, worst case the whole plenum will come out and get RTV on all the things :(
 


Gauge wise for now I'm using my old Defi Link screen for water temp, oil temp/pressure & fuel pressure for now until I can afford to go 7" big boy screen & run the equivalent sensors through the Emtron.

I may even do an electronic speedo off the Emtron since I wont be needing the cable once I have a LCD dash :)

00000PORTRAIT_00000_BURST20200712215336616.jpg

IMG_20200710_220113.jpg

Edited by Wheezy
  • Like 2

Found the intake water leak & have ordered some metal gaskets this time rather than the genuine paper ones.
Will pressure test the system before putting the intake chamber back on.

Got a new blade for my band saw & finally got my tungsten rod order (hard to get right now) so whilst I wait for gaskets I will finish my intake pipe this weekend :)

IMG_20200715_214740.jpg

Edited by Wheezy
  • Like 1

Got the dash back together and the ECU mounted today.

Will test to see exact where the leak is coming from with this China eBay pressure tester kit.

Going to get the leak sorted out in the week and try to finish the intake pipe to the turbo.

IMG_20200719_155239.jpg

IMG_20200718_121619.jpg

Edited by Wheezy
  • Like 2
20 hours ago, Roy said:

Looks neat. Seems us R32 owners are now the bird-dog owners with all the 31 owners going full bling instagram spec :)

Keen to see this thing back and extracting everything the T67 can give !

Thanks man.

Having said that, your 32 is an exception to that rule!

The new turbo is a TD06SH-25G, so should have a tiny bit more poke up top than the T67 from what I can gather.

 

RB25DET gearbox shifter circlips can suck my nuts too.

Missing some skin from that ordeal :(

 

Look to have the water leaks under control now :)


Found the casting on the water tube which sits under the RB26 intake was fouling on the adapter plate.
This was just enough to make the water galleries leak, so I ground off some of the casting dags.
I also got a HKS metal gasket set to ensure the seal is more robust.

 

Did a thing as well to replace my Defi Link Screen and Blitz ID3 Boost Gauge.
This will allow me to swap to Bosch Oil Temp & Pressure and Fuel Pressure Sensors.

Screen Shot 2020-07-27 at 11.00.51 am.png

Edited by Wheezy
  • Like 3
On 7/21/2020 at 2:55 PM, Wheezy said:

 

The new turbo is a TD06SH-25G, so should have a tiny bit more poke up top than the T67 from what I can gather.

 

Got anymore detail on that turbo? What spec impellers and turbine housing?

I ran a Kinugawa one with 11 blade turbine, 12cm T3 single scroll for several seasons. Was very good performer at the price point, only mistake I made was to spec a more compact comp housing with 3 inch inlet. My car was intentionally kept at modest boost and 375rwhp for track, but a short dyno test  with more boost showed 460rwhp on 98 petrol was no problem.  The bigger comp cover would have been a better choice if I wanted/needed to pursue bigger hp than that.

2 hours ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Got anymore detail on that turbo? What spec impellers and turbine housing?

I ran a Kinugawa one with 11 blade turbine, 12cm T3 single scroll for several seasons. Was very good performer at the price point, only mistake I made was to spec a more compact comp housing with 3 inch inlet. My car was intentionally kept at modest boost and 375rwhp for track, but a short dyno test  with more boost showed 460rwhp on 98 petrol was no problem.  The bigger comp cover would have been a better choice if I wanted/needed to pursue bigger hp than that.

See attached.

Hoping for 600rwhp on it maxed out.

That's with 1.9bar of boost

images (4).jpeg

@Dale FZ1FZ1 I think the 25G is a 12 blade. There is a thread from years ago in forced induction which may have the specifics.

I recall counting the blades when I got the turbo a year or so ago. Could be wrong however.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...