Jump to content
SAU Community

Project 'Wheezy' Coupe


Recommended Posts

@Wheezy depending on who manufactured your turbo, there may well have been impeller options. With Kinugawa there certainly was. From recall, I selected the "middle spec" turbine which was 11 blade (stock being 12, and 9 being the highest flowing + lightest), and "standard" 6+6 compressor.  There was also a full 12 blade billet comp impeller option for high boost applications.  Thrust bearing was about 270 degrees for all units.

With all of that, I ran the 11 blade turbine, 12cm housing, standard 12 blade comp, and the compact comp cover.  Main target was decent turbine flow efficiency, and a modest power requirement under 400rwhp.  It performed the required task, reliably.  And there was room for much more.  Boost response was satisfactory, not "awesome".  At the price point there was little to complain about.

I reckon yours will be a good thing, interested to see whether it can run to your power target.

What I really like is your choice of Emtron and some decent sensors.  Suggest you ditch that OEM CAS.  I found greatly reduced timing scatter with a NZ Wiring sensor kit, if that's any help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Dale FZ1 said:

@Wheezy depending on who manufactured your turbo, there may well have been impeller options. With Kinugawa there certainly was. From recall, I selected the "middle spec" turbine which was 11 blade (stock being 12, and 9 being the highest flowing + lightest), and "standard" 6+6 compressor.  There was also a full 12 blade billet comp impeller option for high boost applications.  Thrust bearing was about 270 degrees for all units.

With all of that, I ran the 11 blade turbine, 12cm housing, standard 12 blade comp, and the compact comp cover.  Main target was decent turbine flow efficiency, and a modest power requirement under 400rwhp.  It performed the required task, reliably.  And there was room for much more.  Boost response was satisfactory, not "awesome".  At the price point there was little to complain about.

I reckon yours will be a good thing, interested to see whether it can run to your power target.

What I really like is your choice of Emtron and some decent sensors.  Suggest you ditch that OEM CAS.  I found greatly reduced timing scatter with a NZ Wiring sensor kit, if that's any help.

Mines a genuine Trust turbo. So whatever they did back in the day.

RE: CAS, will probably go the High Octane kit.
Probably not happening before tune, perhaps that way I can keep the power down for now and get used to driving it I guess :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Came so close to starting today.
Has fuel, but no spark.
Spun the CAS by hand, but no spark.

Coila have 12v on the multimeter.
Ran an ignition test on the ECU and the coils fire.

Noticed the battery voltage goes to 11.7v when I crank.
So, charging the battery up to be safe, but it's brand new.

Looking at ECU settings to see if there's something going on to disable the spark.

IMG_20200801_163521.jpg

IMG_20200801_162545.jpg

Edited by Wheezy
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spent the day flushing out the old fuel and putting some new E85 in it along with some fuel doctor.

Based on my digging through the logs and talking to my tuner, it looks like the emtron is designed to suit the Neo CAS.

Will double check with Emtron, but probably I just need to do a pin swap for the signal wire and trigger wire and she should be good to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Engine bay back together more or less.

Apparently the Pyrex Gas Lens for my Tig is turning up this week so I can finish making my new intake pipe.

 

Then it just needs the panels put back on, clutch and brakes bled and a new fuel pump for insurance and it's ready for the dyno.

IMG_20200803_204618.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know it's tune week when...

Viscous clutch decided it didn't want to live anymore.

Ordered a new one from Nissan.

Cost of that hurt the bot bot a little.

 

Then went to bleed the brakes and found $80 of rbf650 on my floor. Fuuuuuuuuuu.

 

Got the brake line junction out.
Messed that up badly... My own fault.

 

To distract myself I did a final tidy up on the GTR loom I replaced my 20 loom with.
Less crusty now.

 

Will go get some essentials for my pets tomorrow and grab a new fitting from Hopper stoppers

IMG_20200810_212415.jpg

IMG_20200810_203450.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brake line junction being picked up tomorrow..
And viscous clutch is due too.

Went to change the fuel pump and decided to clean up the wiring at the bulkhead as I've not touched it since owning the car.

Looks like it's had a bit of a hard life...
It will only be temporary until I get dual pumps next year with an aftermarket hanger etc.

Had a good laugh at the f**ked up wiring job too...
Explains why we had mystery wires when doing the silvertop 20 conversion 14 years ago.

#f**ktuneweek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tig skills getting better.
Might clean up the welds tomorrow with some polish.

Went back to a standard cup instead of the fancy gas lens, not skilled enough for them yet.

IMG_20200814_222207.jpg

IMG_20200814_222214.jpg

Edited by Wheezy
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, PranK said:

That looks amazing!

Thanks man, much appreciated. It's 90% the way there to what I imagined it would be.

I've never gone all out like this before on a car.

So much planning involved however. Other than the long motor build, I can't imagine how much it would cost to pay someone to have do it all for me.

 

A few things I need to tidy up and others is do different. Hopefully there isn't a next time for this cars engine bay.

 

For something completely different, I have a VN Berlina to build (thinking LS6) and a Honda SL70 mini bike to restore.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Wheezy said:

For something completely different, I have a VN Berlina to build (thinking LS6) and a Honda SL70 mini bike to restore.

Nothing like keeping yourself busy! :) 

Mini bike restore sounds like a lot of fun! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, PranK said:

Nothing like keeping yourself busy! :) 

Mini bike restore sounds like a lot of fun! 

Lots of work, was my family's farm bike for years.

Saw a mint one in Tokyo last year and got inspired. Hope to restore it with my kid as a project for him so he can learn to ride

IMG_20190629_234842.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...