Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am curious about my 6boost manifold i thought they were ceramic coated. turns out its not. you guys think its worth taking it back off and have it ceramic coated.......

 

funny this was mentioned my mate just melted his engine harness from to much heat by the wastegate. i ran my wiring in my fender so should be good to go that way.

14 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

i am curious about my 6boost manifold i thought they were ceramic coated. turns out its not. you guys think its worth taking it back off and have it ceramic coated.......

 

Be better off making a heat shield IMO. Don’t worry about the expensive paint job, it does sweet FA. 

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Be better off making a heat shield IMO. Don’t worry about the expensive paint job, it does sweet FA. 

ok thanks mate save me from pulling it apart. we got the catch can and a few other things finished tonight and got fluid in the car. download some maps tomoro and start it. cheers

 

im starting to kick myself for getting a platinum pro and not an elite 2500 at this point....oh well i guess ill use what i got for now. i highly recommend going straight an elite, i dont even know why people bother with the platinum series.

  • Like 1

bought it before i even upgraded my twins back in the day. so its just what i have and will definitely work still. if i was an endless money pit i would upgrade again but at this point just gotta get it runnning.

 

 

was still easy to set up the wb1, 4bar map sensor, haltec iat, flex fuel, couple other sensors,  all through the platinum. it is going to work just fine for now. i had to get a upgrade to run 1 to 4 can ports to run the haltech screen and the wb1 through the same system. other than that for a street setup i think im good to go.

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Finished getting rid of all the hicas crap and welded a 8an on remaining line from rack. Will run it to the reservoir i made(still need a bracket) and will finally be able to start this thing.  Got the wide band figured out to the haltech it’s almost go time!

CFE10378-E65F-4E14-9C44-ADD7B05127D0.jpeg

AB8B2CB6-A67D-4C7A-A28B-49E77F60315D.jpeg

0E33BF1A-7774-4DA7-9221-FD8DEC8015E6.jpeg

I have hit a snag I feel like I don’t have this setup right. The directions don’t even have the pigtail out the back like on my wb1 can sensor they sent so the directions make no sense. Need help finishing this up, I have ordered the can box extension if that’s what I need to get this setup, I ordered it so I can run the haltech screen as well as to my understanding I needed it to run more than one can device with the platinum series versus the elite

DA37C85A-FCC1-4EBE-A764-FBC11065C0D5.jpeg

C30CB366-F46E-41A3-A809-992D25B57DF7.jpeg

Finally got all this figured out for the haltech to power all my shinanigans. Learning way more and finding out the last 10 percent of putting the car together is more like the last 30 percent haha. Getting her done tho slowly but surely. Family life comes first cheers mates

199C4B8E-4E67-49CF-9302-29E122797196.jpeg

  • Like 1

Made some progress  in the old boot tonight. That’s it till tomorow and yet another day of fabbing,slaying trees,and maybe start this machine.

5864BDCF-C6C3-4D86-A906-3F820088F66D.jpeg

FDF55653-1339-4849-A881-6DA283B3713F.jpeg

6A619979-5F36-4760-8AF1-D44A2B4FC39F.jpeg

996C545F-41AD-4787-BF8B-69191CD8C4B4.jpeg

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, r33cruiser said:

How did you get the double garage all to yourself?!😲

Wifeswap?

ahh chap funny thing the property to my east came for sale for next to nothing, so i scooped it and building another garage to my east! worked out great even has a little house on the property still im renting out. the gtr gets the silver spoon yet again while the other whips sit outside ha. cheers good mate. 

9 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

Made some progress  in the old boot tonight. That’s it till tomorow and yet another day of fabbing,slaying trees,and maybe start this machine.

5864BDCF-C6C3-4D86-A906-3F820088F66D.jpeg

FDF55653-1339-4849-A881-6DA283B3713F.jpeg

6A619979-5F36-4760-8AF1-D44A2B4FC39F.jpeg

996C545F-41AD-4787-BF8B-69191CD8C4B4.jpeg

FYI when making brackets like these for your battery get some fuel tank straps and line them(semi shop will have them made from rubber) because you will accidently ground your positive and negative together(hence why my posts are taped because i shorted my brand new battery for half second and learnt the hard way.) cheers

Another night of hammering down on some fab work. I hired a new welder for the shop he’s only 25 and can throw it down. Anything needed he’s done quick with a great attitude I couldn’t be happier. 

AC3B0C51-4911-493B-9628-E1CD96201586.jpeg

D9E19BD7-AFC3-4206-82D3-D90CEA7ABA81.jpeg

C6276372-B9AB-4400-9421-3C0E175B72AF.jpeg

D54983DB-80E3-4D56-8C39-194349AF0BA1.jpeg

AAED94E6-62FE-4523-B4A6-2466E2CA4850.jpeg

F07D8318-886E-4DB9-9C7C-645476F7ADDB.jpeg

  • Like 1

When your welder runs out of argon on a Saturday in the middle of tree cuttin job! Shift that argon ten speed right back to the shop then full send back to the job site! Catch cans looking deadly this kid can fricken weld.

E4306FA9-6C32-415F-8A7E-4C35179C1CFC.jpeg

87117DE0-0EE3-4626-8282-C9078F13901D.jpeg

F9A7865B-AA16-4603-8EE6-B6EE905B15D0.jpeg

Well today was the day Just gotta tune her tunes up now. Thanks to Ben (bk) helped me a lot through this, and a bunch of my friends. Was great to see everyone come together to get this car complete. I have learnt many lessons through this experience. Cheers mates. More to come. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...