Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Parts List

 

OEM Nissan Parts:

 

R33 Gtr Rb26dett Engine

R33 Gtr 5 Speed Transmission

R34 Gtr Front Subframe

R34 Gtr Front Lower Control Arms

R34 Gtr Front Upper Control Arms

R34 Gtr Front Knuckles

R34 Gtr Steering Rack and Pinion

R34 Gtr Front Sway Bar

R34 Gtr Front Coilovers (Ohlins)

R34 Gtr Front Axles

R34 Gtr Front Brakes

R34 Gtr Front Brake Lines

R33 Gtr Front Prop Shaft

R33 Gtr Main Prop Shaft

R34 Gtr Rear Subframe

R34 Gtr Rear Diff

R34 Gtr Rear Axles

R34 Gtr Rear Control Arms

R34 Gtr Rear Hubs

R34 Gtr Rear Brakes

R34 Gtr Rear Brake Lines

R34 Gtr Rear Sway Bar

R33 Gtr Attesa Pump

R33 Gtr Attesa Fluid Reservoir

R33 Gtr Transmission Crossmember

 

 

Aftermarket Parts

 

Engine:

HKS 2.8L Rotating Kit

HKS Valve Springs

Tomei Pro Cams

HKS Timing Belt

HKS Cam Gears

N1 Oil Pump

N1 Water Pump

HKS Gaskets

G-Force Silicone Coolant Hoses

Reworked R34 N1 Turbos

Tomei Turbo Dump Pipes

Apexi Downpipe

Nismo Flywheel

Nismo Clutch

 

Fuel System:

AEM In-tank Fuel Pump

Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

8 AN Fuel Lines

Aluminum Fuel Rail

GM Flex Fuel Sensor

 

Chassis:

Nismo Engine Mounts

Nismo Transmission Mount

HKS Exhaust

Chase Bays AN Power Steering Hose

R34 Gtr Aluminum Radiator

 

Electronics:

Adaptronic eMod004 ECU

Full Race ETS-Pro Diff Controller

Wiring Specialties RB26 Universal Pro Engine Harness

Greddy Boost Control Solenoid

Depo Wideband 02 Gauge

R33 Gtr Drop Resister

R33 Gtr Ignighter

 

Misc:

HKS M35 Spark Plugs

HKS Oil Filter

Royal Purple Engine Oil

Royal Purple Gear Oil

Royal Purple ATF

3D Printed MAF Delete Pipes

Sprinkle of Magic

 

 

 

 

 

  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...

I'm curious to know whether the OP had to modify the chassis legs to clear the front axles. It would be a show stopper in NZ. See the raised section on the BNR34 chassis:

tempsnip.png

Edited by NZ-GTT

 I found that the GTR subframe sits approximately 2 inches lower in the car than the GTT sub frame.   So what I did was box the end of the sub frame mounts adding that additional 2 inches and contouring it to the frame of the GTT.   Then I drilled 1 inch holes through the existing frame rails vertically and sleeved them with a .060 wall tube.   I attached the sub frame to the existing frame rails using 1/2 inch grade 8 hardware.   Keep in mind that you also need to modify the driver side floor pan as well as the driver side frame rail to except the GTR transmission mount.   

C003EE28-3D5B-4A4C-8E22-C43BECEF2B24.jpeg

B6E4093D-EA5B-48ED-8A41-4A47C16A7788.jpeg

420BFFF6-6CD6-4258-B345-87475C14A8D5.jpeg

089828ED-F4CE-4066-97CB-7C2D5D07C532.jpeg

15FA9475-3301-4020-9637-9D8E9F6C5595.jpeg

ECCE8B9D-E209-49CA-9C22-FB531D2D8345.jpeg

8F71C6AF-9942-4297-A24D-2F4E77846DBD.jpeg

9B20962A-B9F0-47CC-99C2-BE0ADB207C50.jpeg

B12AAD06-0A81-44F1-AF1C-E86B1177CE2A.jpeg

80B366A1-CC4D-4C9A-9307-8131B3AE067D.jpeg

5905F6B1-1713-4396-A647-B49B0D05C7EE.jpeg

94EB83E6-B13C-4413-96E7-92904C7556B9.jpeg

B18C9BE4-F386-4E0B-BF2C-AF1A56CC0BEF.jpeg

54557C5C-1647-4B1C-A8D5-15C81F45BC6F.jpeg

C498A7FB-5A78-4011-9C46-5EE305A5CE37.jpeg

F85E88C7-E5FB-4C64-B696-F17F17937EF4.jpeg

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...