Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

AIM MXS dash?

Also can do logging 

My curiosity to coin ratio only extends so far

$1500 to see my trans temp and AIT, yeah nah

Plus that AIM dash would look so out of place in the old bogan cruise ship

  • Haha 1

I have a head unit and can thus run any ODB2 app I want. I have the entire torque pro app running in the double din with all the gauges I need.

Note: Don't need any, as I have enough mechanical gauges. But I can put extra stuff there!! And stupid shit like 0-100 runs, or my track day telemetry.

Also Trackaddict is great. And allows overlay for all the circuit things, and does not interfere with god knows what. Go one step further and just tune your f**kin car and buy a MPVI2 lol.

The tech has progressed past whatever that thing is now, and if you want to say have gauges for everything, that is what ODB2 and some kind of display/screen is FOR.

😭 I just want to know my trans temp and IAT 😭

As for tuning, I can barely log on to the interwebs, let alone play with that black magic tuning thing

I can see it now.

"I am going to try tuning my car"........NEK MINNIT.......

DSC_0998.thumb.jpg.339b80a134d6b280ee638ce0e30a5301.jpg

  • Haha 2
On 7/2/2021 at 9:49 AM, mlr said:

😭 I just want to know my trans temp and IAT 😭

As for tuning, I can barely log on to the interwebs, let alone play with that black magic tuning thing

I can see it now.

"I am going to try tuning my car"........NEK MINNIT.......

DSC_0998.thumb.jpg.339b80a134d6b280ee638ce0e30a5301.jpg

Trans temp and cooler are actually pretty important. I remember my hi-stall adventures, its well worth knowing so you can freak out as it climbs in traffic like I did before I installed a fan for it!

  • Like 1

Bugger

The trans doesn't in fact have a trans temp sensor, no trans temp for me thru the OBD2....spoke to Craigs about this and they believe my temps would be fine anyway as the trans has a big pan and a big air to oil cooler, I asked about if cold fluid temps would cause an issue and they said as long as the engine is at temp the trans will be fine.

Meh, the scanner showed no codes though, which was nice

I'm still happy with what it actually can do

Currently it got volts, coolant temp, IAT and boost

I wish I had this when 1. My alternator died, or 2. When my battery died 6 months later..

IAT goes from about 50°c cruising to 80°c during a long hard pull down the local strip at work, hot yes, but hot IAT is a thing with a PD supercharger, you cannot really tell the difference in performance and the ECU black magic deals with it anyway, #notaracecar, soooooo, if my IAT vary from this I may have a coolant flow issue to the W2A intercooler

This tells me that a PD supercharger is great for the street and strip, where a 5 to 10 second hit is all that is needed, but it would be rubbish for the track where you are constantly on the loud pedal, I would assume heat soak would be rampant after 1/2 lap at your local motorsport park, and possibly the ssme for towing...maybe.....

Coolant temps are a fairly fixed 93° c once up to temp

And boost is boost, unlike a turbo which can overboost, the PD blower either blows, or it doesn't, and of it ain't blowing it's because it's dropped a belt

20210708_154251.thumb.jpg.810d11bb6140684aa3966e497edb951e.jpg

Put a real temp sensor in the line that runs from your trans cooler - That's what I did.

80C while your foot is down? That is ridiculous and has obliterated any desire to ever get on boost.
50C is already massively heat soaked. 80C after a few seconds makes me wonder if your intercooler even exists.

Dang.

  • Like 1
On 08/07/2021 at 10:09 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Put a real temp sensor in the line that runs from your trans cooler - That's what I did.

80C while your foot is down? That is ridiculous and has obliterated any desire to ever get on boost.
50C is already massively heat soaked. 80C after a few seconds makes me wonder if your intercooler even exists.

Dang.

But strangely those temps seem to be a thing when it comes to PD blowers, I initially freaked out but the tuner said it is typical, then rang Harrop who said it's typical, then Googled it....google said it's typical and/or that the sensor might heat soak because of it's location, meh, the car is perfect for what I want so

And I knew going in that a PD isn't as efficient as turbos IRT IAT, but I'm happy to compromise a bit, the car goes like a cut snake from idle

Craigs suggested if I really want trans temp to get a bung tapped into the pan for the most accurate temp, I might get this done next trans service

I will chase up some logs from a mates car for reference, it is very similar. I recall it will heat soak high but then giving a squirt will go lower due to airflow .

 

Lsa engines go up like crazy when giving it a blast. Easily add at least 20 degrees over a quarter mile pass. Those intercollegiate in the blower are laughably small.

 

Don't look at interchillers. Don't think  about having a system that gives you air inlet temps below zero.

 

 

 

On 09/07/2021 at 9:02 AM, Ben C34 said:

I will chase up some logs from a mates car for reference, it is very similar. I recall it will heat soak high but then giving a squirt will go lower due to airflow .

 

Lsa engines go up like crazy when giving it a blast. Easily add at least 20 degrees over a quarter mile pass. Those intercollegiate in the blower are laughably small.

 

Don't look at interchillers. Don't think  about having a system that gives you air inlet temps below zero.

 

 

 

What's wrong with interchillers?

On 09/07/2021 at 11:07 AM, Ben C34 said:

Nothing. It's just something else you will look at and buy but don't really need!

 

 

Nothing to see here........

Quietly googles interchillers........again...........yeah, nah, the car is boss for what I use it for and it seriously doesn't need any more power

For the occasional street pull I cannot see there being any real reason

As for unnecessary modifications, well, there is always an electric power steering pump from an Astra, and/or electric water pump, both are not necessary, but for some strange reason I keep googling them........

It's like/is a disease......LOL

  • Like 1

As I was bored at work, and possibly somewhere on the spectrum 

20210709_134913.thumb.jpg.0090b4f2fbc2a03448c77aa23363e346.jpg

I had some of the stuff I used to cover the headers left over.

It's pretty toasty inside the engine bay, hopefully this "may" help with the radiant heat on the cooland lines and reservoir 

And running my WTA lines inline with my 90° coolant lines wouldn't have been helping either

Will it be noticable? I'll see gow it goes next outing. Either way it got me away from actually doing real work

EKO TFIF

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...