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Getting fuel level signal into the ECU

Murray_Calavera
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Unzipped Composites Rising Star

Unzipped Composites

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I've seen a couple of these dashes in person, all with the same very poor quality. Laine @bcozican will know....

 

This is not how a 3D printed part should look though. A properly 3D printed part will look good. These guys either have absolutely no idea what they are doing, or they are using a very poor quality printer. To me, I think they are using way too high a stepover in order to save time on each print. Which tells me their printer isn't up to the task of the production environment they are going for. Also the edges not being straight indicates the prints are warping, which again points to either a rushed print or cheap materials. There is serious refinement needed before these things are ready for production.

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BK
BK

Did you get this sorted with the level readings ? Was thinking about doing this too in the Haltech on the current 32 build. The resistance values to work off are 90 - 0 ohms with the Nissans. In a 32

Murray_Calavera
Murray_Calavera

Ok this is the final, final update (hopefully).  So as I had a V1 Haltech IC7, my internal pullup resistor built into the dash for AVI 4 was only 1,000 Ohm. Using this resistor, I had a working v

Tobz
Tobz

I’ve got a 3D Racing Solutions dash coming on Monday hopefully. I’ll post results to see if they are any better.

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Unzipped Composites Rising Star

Unzipped Composites

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6 hours ago, DaymoR32 said:

Thats because the images on the website arent photos but 3d renders spat out by solidworks/fusion 360, everything looks better on CAD.

I belive there is actually a way now of spitting out the sliced file (essentially gcode for the 3d printer) putting it back into the cad package and then being able to render it - showing how it would truly look once printed with all the layer lines etc..

 

Fusion 360 will show you a simulation of the machined/printed part in the CAM workspace just by default. I haven't used Solidworks, but I imagine it will be the same.

DaymoR32 Proficient

DaymoR32

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1 hour ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

Fusion 360 will show you a simulation of the machined/printed part in the CAM workspace just by default. I haven't used Solidworks, but I imagine it will be the same.

Yeah I don’t use fusion myself, used solid works daily for the past 10 years. Understand you can do CAM for machining but don’t think the 3D printing part profiles are there yet (well not in solid works anyway).

i do agree with the part quality, they are probably printing around the 0.3mm layer height to get the clusters out in roughly 6-8 hours. Soon as you go down to 0.2 or 0.1 you are massively increasing production times. 
 

still at $200 odd for a cluster you should be able to justify the longer time. It’s not like they’ll be using heaps of filament, electricity won’t be much either. The cost is probably in the design time and possibly in the machines

 

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

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18 minutes ago, DaymoR32 said:

Yeah I don’t use fusion myself, used solid works daily for the past 10 years. Understand you can do CAM for machining but don’t think the 3D printing part profiles are there yet (well not in solid works anyway).

i do agree with the part quality, they are probably printing around the 0.3mm layer height to get the clusters out in roughly 6-8 hours. Soon as you go down to 0.2 or 0.1 you are massively increasing production times. 
 

still at $200 odd for a cluster you should be able to justify the longer time. It’s not like they’ll be using heaps of filament, electricity won’t be much either. The cost is probably in the design time and possibly in the machines

 

My cluster was $407 =/

Does anyone know if the 3dracingsolutions stuff is any better? 

bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

My cluster was $407 =/

Does anyone know if the 3dracingsolutions stuff is any better? 

Wow.. mine was 200 odd and i wasnt happy for the level I wanted for my car so on sold it

Horses for courses - not great and super clean but can see the appeal for people as an easier and reasonably decent solution for those that dontwant to pay for custom or have the know how to make it work otherwise

  • 2 weeks later...
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

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Well here we go again. 

I sent the wrong dash back, new dash arrived today.... With the wrong LED light. They sent a blinker indicator instead of a battery light. 

And unless I'm completely retarded, I can't see how it would be secured as the nut is a long way from reaching any threads.

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Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

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I hope so. I haven't trial fitted it yet. 

I still haven't setup the ECU to receive the fuel level signal yet as my in tank fuel level float thing has fallen off again on my last track day. Can't wait to dig around in the fuel tank again and put it back in it's slot. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

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Nice :)

If you get a chance while your installing it, do you mind doing a little how-to on how to wire the battery light resistor? 

I don't know why I can't get my head around how to wire in the resistor where the battery light was. 

Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If you get a chance while your installing it, do you mind doing a little how-to on how to wire the battery light resistor? 

I don't know why I can't get my head around how to wire in the resistor where the battery light was. 

But reading online, isn't there a red and white cable that is around 9V that you would just add the globe too?

 

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

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I'm using a resistor, I'll link to the instructions below - 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/8332/files/Alternator_Excitor_LED_Module.pdf?2740344812066901986

I guess I'll just wire the "Blue - To Alternator Switch" to the charge light and see how I go. 

DaymoR32 Proficient

DaymoR32

Posted
Posted

Photos from my car that runs an IQ3 Haltech dash. Was installed prior to me owning it.

there’s a white with red trace and a red wire that have been cut into and now power a globe. 814187CF-66B8-4B5F-A224-EB4108D6CC59.thumb.jpeg.1323b7093476ad3022cdd84037b27d5f.jpeg

6DB9E02B-2847-4DEB-A720-034B50170974.thumb.jpeg.397ade6aac20f4629459a6bc1fcf9b28.jpeg

When you flick the ignition onto accessories the globe lights up. Once you start the car the globe goes out.

 

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Tobz Community Regular

Tobz

Posted
Posted (edited)

@Murray_Calavera

how did you get around the central locking control unit issue? Just realised I can’t lock my car unless the battery is disconnected as there is a central locking control unit in the cluster. When I go to lock the door the motor tries to keep the door unlocked. 
 

also for the Speedo they needed to wire the gearbox speed sensor to the factory inputs in the Haltech otherwise you won’t get any speed readouts. Turns out from factory the speed sensor goes to the dash first then the ecu....

Edited by Tobz

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