Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have a R33 that I've swapped a Neo into and is making just shy of 600rwhp.

I haven't had the usual 3rd gear issue, but I have snapped 2 input shafts. 

I'm considering going cd009, doing research I found the input shaft is the same size (spline from cd will fit into a rb clutch) but I believe where it benefits is it doesn't step down to a smaller size after the spline - this is where they always break. 

Having a 6th gear would be nice too. My question is, are the cd gearboxes really that much stronger than a skyline 5 speed? 

Also which adapter kit would I be best off looking at? I'm thinking about the JWT kit with a CBF mid mount shifter. 

I'd just need to fabricate my own cross member and have a shop modify the tailshaft. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481050-cd009-into-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

There is one guy on here who has done it using i believe the collins kit. Have heard that the collins one is dogshit.

Fisch racing are making a complete replacement bellhousing solution ala Mazworx SR20 style which i am very interested in.

Have heard one good review about the JWT kit, i think @LaurelPWR is using one on his car.

14 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How are you snapping input shafts on a R33 box with only 600hp? I would be more concerned there's another issue.

This guy raise a very good point. The norm is the output shaft brakes from loading up the drive train to fast. Input shaft would be hard gear changes and shocking the box when you dump it

I stopped using the stock box at 600hp but mine was due to 3rd gear not wanting to play with the other gears very well.

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How are you snapping input shafts on a R33 box with only 600hp? I would be more concerned there's another issue.

@Yonz has a CD009 box in, however no idea if he's around here anymore.

 

1 hour ago, WR33KD said:

This guy raise a very good point. The norm is the output shaft brakes from loading up the drive train to fast. Input shaft would be hard gear changes and shocking the box when you dump it

I stopped using the stock box at 600hp but mine was due to 3rd gear not wanting to play with the other gears very well.

Everytime its been clutch kick in 4th gear at about 150kph, solid center clutch and welded diff - its expected.

As far as the t56 manual swap goes I've looked into it and the ratios are no where as ideal as the cd009, also the shift quality is junk have you ever tried to shift a tremec past 6500rpm? They don't.

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

In before anyone else, Samsonas.

Haha there's no way I'm spending $20k aud on a gearbox with only 600rwhp I still want to street drive it. 

Come on boys must be someone active here who is running a tr6060 or cd009 behind their rb, I want a clean install. The JWT kit looks so janky with the cut off bellhousing. 

At the moment the rod shop kit looks the best. 

  • 2 weeks later...

CD009 Rev 2 with external slave cylinder has been proven and documented to take 1000HP... keep in mind that this particular box is alot less common over the many many many 350/g35 boxes over the 8 years that were made different with alot of slight revisions. 

  • 3 months later...
On 8/30/2020 at 3:59 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

There is one guy on here who has done it using i believe the collins kit. Have heard that the collins one is dogshit.

Fisch racing are making a complete replacement bellhousing solution ala Mazworx SR20 style which i am very interested in.

Have heard one good review about the JWT kit, i think @LaurelPWR is using one on his car.

What is dog shit with the Collins kit? 

 

Can't find an rb25 box , not even on Yahoo so need as a fix and the CD009 makes sense with a bit of bashing

19 hours ago, Roy said:

What is dog shit with the Collins kit? 

 

Can't find an rb25 box , not even on Yahoo so need as a fix and the CD009 makes sense with a bit of bashing

ytou can get rb25 boxes brand new from just jap - granted they order them in though

https://justjap.com/genuine-nissan-gearbox-nissan-skyline-er34-32010-aa520.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...