Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You've lost me with your terminology.

I'm guessing by "Exon," you mean "xenon."

If so, if it is a D2S (i.e. a round connector rather than a rectangular 3-pin connector), you should be replacing it with a similarly decent D2S bulb. Philips or Osram are the way to go, in my humble opinion.

No, LEDs are not a suitable replacement and I doubt you'll find anything LED for a headlight bulb anyway. For the small 5W wedge bulbs (i.e. park lights), sure, but not your actual headlights. Even if they did exist, they would burn out a lot sooner than a Xenon HID and the colour temperature would be bad enough to get you (deservedly) defected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482156-bulb-change/#findComment-7949271
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, The Max said:

Even if they did exist, they would burn out a lot sooner than a Xenon HID and the colour temperature would be bad enough to get you (deservedly) defected.

That's not quite true, but true enough for this particular application. You certainly can't replace the HID capsule with an LED source in existing headlights. But there are certainly very many LED headlights available now. Ignoring the shit that dribbles out of chinafactorybackdoor#3, some of these are even very good. If you have HID projectors in a popular enough car, there is likely to be a kit to change them to LED. You can get 100% LED replacement headlights for R32, for example, and the LEDs are probably close on as good as good HIDs.

I won't disagree on the colour temperature, but it's actually more the CRI (colour reproduction index) that is the biggest problem with LEDs. Because white LEDs use phosphors to produce a stripe of red, a stripe of green and a stripe of blue, with nothing else from the visible spectrum in there, you get this horrible flat light that doesn't show up contrast in different colours. Shine a conventional light onto the bushes etc on the side of the road and you can see the different greens. With LEDs, all those greens end up looking the same sort of colourless grey. That's where they need to improve. All modern cars with LED headlights are tiring to drive because of this, no matter how good the LEDs are otherwise in terms of brightness and pattern.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482156-bulb-change/#findComment-7949280
Share on other sites

I would caution against blindly doing LED replacements, if someone has actually bothered to get the photometric data and verified it's an improvement vs original spec lights then it's ok but the vast majority of drop-in LEDs for halogen housings will cause problems because the filament of the halogen has a different light pattern than the LED replacement. The optics of a headlight are pretty carefully calibrated against the light source it is intended to use.

There are some LED headlight replacements that are application-specific and may actually work as intended with better brightness than the original, but the vast majority out there are going to be worse and cause visibility issues. If you have an HID headlight assembly a proper LED retrofit will likely require replacing the projector with an LED equivalent and some harness work to delete the HID ballast. If you want to have the best possible brightness in a D2S socket run 4300k bulbs and make sure your lenses are not hazed or yellowing. Some projectors are also known to be damaged over time, if the metal projector bowl is damaged then you'll have worse light output as well. Getting your headlights properly aimed also makes a big difference, long distance visibility on low beam is most important in the level and 0.4 degree below level test points. Anything below that is not actually that useful and is mostly foreground illumination, too much of which can impact your night vision and increase glare in rainy conditions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482156-bulb-change/#findComment-7949285
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, John Stafford said:

I was wondering if the change to something higher in the HID range would be good

Don't make the mistake of thinking that the higher temperature numbers (ie 4300K, 5500K) mean the light is better, if that is what you were thinking.

The light output of an HID is a function of the ballast. The capsule has to be able to take the drive power, but the ballast pretty much sets the drive power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482156-bulb-change/#findComment-7949289
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, John Stafford said:

All good info. thanks. I was wondering if the change to something higher in the HID range would be good. How many lumens are these stock? Cheers

 

AFAIK there's not much ability to get higher brightness out of an HID bulb like halogens, the luminous efficiency is already pretty high and 4300k white point maximizes the light output. Philips 85122 would be good for a D2S application for example.

You might be able to run higher output by running a more powerful ballast but many ballasts are rated at input power, not output power. You have to figure out for yourself if the output power/luminance is actually any better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482156-bulb-change/#findComment-7949290
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Don't make the mistake of thinking that the higher temperature numbers (ie 4300K, 5500K) mean the light is better, if that is what you were thinking.

The light output of an HID is a function of the ballast. The capsule has to be able to take the drive power, but the ballast pretty much sets the drive power.

Got it. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482156-bulb-change/#findComment-7949292
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, John Stafford said:

All good info. thanks. I was wondering if the change to something higher in the HID range would be good. How many lumens are these stock? Cheers

 

Stick to what you have. Moving into a higher colour temperature will be far too white and useless in many conditions, particularly in wet weather.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482156-bulb-change/#findComment-7949297
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...