Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've searched and spoken to people about this but thought I'd ask here and see what replies I get. 

Have a friends dad I just finished building the engine for and fuel system. 

Engine is rb25det

Nitto I beam rods nitto pistons oil pump crank collar billit oil pump gears main studs head studs 9ltr high volume sump. Turbo is a garret gtx3076 .82ar 3" exhaust power fc z32 AFM fmic forward facing plenum 80mm tb

The car is only a track car driver is 60yrs old. 

Just wanting to know people thoughts on what sort of power and boost would you think would be keeping things safe 22psi 24psi 450rwhp 550rwhp I don't want to go wild with power but don't want to go easy either. He does a 2min10sec at the Philip island if that helps before I sorted out all sorts of problems from a shop it went to for lots of work but was never right. 

Any thoughts would be appreciated thanks. 

IMG_20190914_125640_620.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Wwhich should make for a nice drive around both Phillip Island and Sandown. 300kw will probably lead to traction issues at tighter tracks like Winton so big rear tyres, good 1.5 way diff centre etc will help. Larger brakes for the front will help with longer runs too

Once you get near 400kw and over stuff starts breaking and getting very expensive to fix and run.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/#findComment-7955667
Share on other sites

On 08/09/2021 at 1:30 PM, Kinkstaah said:

If you want to (or want someone else to) enjoy driving the car, 300kw is the magic sweet spot for approximately everything as one whole cohesive car ...system.

yep i have 300kw on e85, is super manageable and fun. i mostly only use it for trackdays, 265/275 semi slicks are the go. make sure all the suspension components (coilovers, suspension arms, bushes etc.) are top notch, otherwise it gets a bit unpredictable 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/#findComment-7955675
Share on other sites

On 08/09/2021 at 8:11 AM, Hpjunky said:

That's what I was thinking. It has big brakes front and rear. Sticky track tyres. It was meant to make 300kw previous from a work shop but never seemed to go like it he said. I'm hoping when I dyno it 21-22psi should get me 300-330rwkw. should be more than enough. 

I recently posted a dyno result for pretty much same setup as you; right in the 400whp mark at 21 ish psi. Not huge power but fairly usable for a circuit car IMO.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/#findComment-7955676
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies. Ok so around the 300kw mark it's on e85 track car only. Front and rear bushes are all done. Boxed front subframe strengthen lower arms adjustable top arms. Rear subframe has been braced and reinforced in arm pivot points and hicas delete. Runs nankang sportnex ar-1 semi slicks 235/45r17 front and 255/40r17 rear. Should be getting it on the dyno for him at the end of the month and see what numbers it comes up with. IMG_20180611_141601_193.thumb.jpg.c4d559aacae66342bf00d6100e9dbc85.jpg

IMG20190123083643.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/#findComment-7955685
Share on other sites

I'm running same turbo on mine (mines a stock neo though)

300kW on 98 @ 18PSI

365kW on E85 @ 25PSI

Super responsive, would definitely recommend 1.5 way diff, i have one and it still likes to step out on boost. im only running 235 tyres on the rear, hoping to change wheels in the future and put a wider stickier tyre on the back.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/#findComment-7955706
Share on other sites

Ok cool. This car has always had problems was at a shop was meant to have made 317kw at 18psi on e85 but just never felt like it he said. I dynoed it before pulling the engine and it made 203 at 16psi didn't change anything. But now just running the engine in a little and getting the power fc tuned with fc edit and datalogit box it feels like it actually has power now, so will wait to see results when dynoed and I'll post the graphs here to show what the out come is. 

IMG20200606112152.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/#findComment-7955713
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Finally got the car on the dyno and had good results. 424kw at the hubs on 24psi e85. Now I have the issue of excessive oil being push in to the catch can on long pulls so 1st gear all the way to the top of 4th gear and it spits out 750mls maybe more on one pull like that. So going to run a 4+ litre return to sump catch tank so it might have a hope of draining back in low speed corners. Is this what you would do or is there something else. Has  .9mm oil restrictors in both oil feeds to the head. Any advise or just turn the boost down? 

20211104_124214.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482807-track-r33-gtst/#findComment-7957999
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...