Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Wife has v36 sedan as a family car.  We love it, well built and sturdy for the kids.  K&N air filters but it pings a bit in summer on hot days.  We always run BP 98.

Only downside is the fuel economy, which is felt even more now with petrol prices getting stupid.

Ive read  ECU tuning is limited and expensive, any suggestions ? Is there anything basic and cheap for tune ? Can you play with the fuel and ignition for economy ?  Can we chuck the standard air filters back in and just run it on normal unleaded ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483874-v36-fuel-economy-and-pinging/
Share on other sites

You should definitely see if it runs OK with the standard filters back in, at least you then know what your choice is.

Tuning is straightforward but you will cost around $600-$1k for a tuning license and a modification specific tune for the car

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

due to petrol prices, I dropped the 98 and ran mine on 95 fine - no issues at all. Mind you E10 94 freaked it out and regular unleaded made it lose power

 

Economy - a nissan dealer told me that any misalignment between the two intakes over time causes a drop in economy. At least spray some cleaner in the intake butterflys to ensure one isnt sticking a bit. same with airfilters, keep them clean.

 

I have this issue with my 08 v36 sedan that has only had 98 in it last 10 years, and Im pretty sure my mechanic puts k&n in when servicing. Could it really be that simple? I've been shopping around to get it fixed, but being so cold in Adelaide, it doesn't make the noise.

On 8/11/2022 at 3:58 PM, awsam said:

I have this issue with my 08 v36 sedan that has only had 98 in it last 10 years, and Im pretty sure my mechanic puts k&n in when servicing. Could it really be that simple? I've been shopping around to get it fixed, but being so cold in Adelaide, it doesn't make the noise.

give the MAF sensors a clean first. I had problems with my V35 when oil from the K&N filter would get on them.

Edited by V35_Paul

I notice a pinging type of sound in my V36 more during warmer months driving up a slight hill @ approx 40-50kmh in the higher gears.  Sometimes it does it so randomly that I wonder if it could actually be a timing chain type of noise/rattle.  As for fuel economy I cant really complain, as I consistently get in the low 9l/100km driving very conservatively. I also believe my tyre choice and wheel alignment played a roll in getting those figures as I used to average in the mid 10 - low 11l/100km. I only run Mobil 98 from X-Convenience.

Ok, wonder if that is normal??  Even my wife's bulky VQ35 AWD Murano does better than that, usually returns around 9L/100km on the highway. V35 6MT returns around 7.5L/100km and my current Q50 is mid to high 6s.

  • Like 1

Clean MAFs, Check O2 sensors are good, Check knock sensors are good.
They are quiet conservative on timing and factory knock maps (low Octane) are good.

Highway I get 8.8-9.2L/100km in my 370z so must be an issue somewhere.

Tuning anything VQ based is expensive due to Uprev licence costs & tuners knowing how to use it. HPtuners can now do a small amount of stuff but not worth the time compared to Uprev

  • 1 month later...

I found out that these car's were made to run on E10 as E10 was in production in Japan at the time they were made, but E10 in Japan is higher Ron than Australia's. I run mine fine on E10 95ron and don't notice a difference in performance putting premium 98 Ron in it.

You can buy a box off ebay that plugs in under the dash for $250 that reckons it gives you up to 10% better economy and up to 20% more powerful.

My dealer offered to tune mine for me for $1500 to get abother 50, 60 kilowats out of it. (bringing it up to 300KW)

you can also get after market computers to switch over giving you around the same increases, but they take control of the WHOLE car.

 

1 hour ago, Aramith said:

You can buy a box off ebay that plugs in under the dash for $250 that reckons it gives you up to 10% better economy and up to 20% more powerful.

My dealer offered to tune mine for me for $1500 to get abother 50, 60 kilowats out of it. (bringing it up to 300KW)

you can also get after market computers to switch over giving you around the same increases, but they take control of the WHOLE car.

 

please buy the ebay box........

They will do 230ish kw MAX with headers, exhaust and maybe intake pipes. Anything else requires a power adder (nitrous or boost)
I want some of what your dealer is on.

The after market ecu does not control everything.... they run the engine and integrate with the factory Nissan CAN system so all the factory systems work.

1 minute ago, robbo_rb180 said:

please buy the ebay box........

They will do 230ish kw MAX with headers, exhaust and maybe intake pipes. Anything else requires a power adder (nitrous or boost)
I want some of what your dealer is on.

The after market ecu does not control everything.... they run the engine and integrate with the factory Nissan CAN system so all the factory systems work.

So many of his dreams.... shattered in an instant. 

  • Thanks 1

Sorry, i guess i was just talking about what it would do to my car. My car is still stock from the factory. My car has 245KW. I'm not sure what you're talking about when you say "they" when your car is an R33. and the aftermarket CPU's say they take control of all critical function of the car, which to me, man i thought i would write everything. I don't understand how a stock car's ECU can handle putting new exhaust and intake pipes when the factory's make the car as a complete package and made for the ones it comes with.

The dealer didn't tell me about the box i found on ebay. I found it. The dealer told me they do stage 1 tunings in his work shop and that that is the ECU tune to get another 50-60 Kilowats and the after market computers give about the same KW increase, man. They can be sourced from around $700

 

Edited by Aramith

simon cowell facepalm GIF

 

Next thing we'll be hearing about Don mega spec fuel systems and valve springs in rotaries.......

Having worked at one of Queensland's biggest vq tuners I may know what I'm on about.

  • Like 1
59 minutes ago, Aramith said:

Sorry, i guess i was just talking about what it would do to my car. My car is still stock from the factory. My car has 245KW. I'm not sure what you're talking about when you say "they" when your car is an R33. and the aftermarket CPU's say they take control of all critical function of the car, which to me, man i thought i would write everything. I don't understand how a stock car's ECU can handle putting new exhaust and intake pipes when the factory's make the car as a complete package and made for the ones it comes with.

The dealer didn't tell me about the box i found on ebay. I found it. The dealer told me they do stage 1 tunings in his work shop and that that is the ECU tune to get another 50-60 Kilowats and the after market computers give about the same KW increase, man. They can be sourced from around $700

 

Aramith, unfortunately you're going to have to take our word on this. You have a large knowledge gap with regards to how engines and ECU's work. 

The thing on Ebay is 100% a scam. It does not do what it claims to do. 

The power increases your claiming with an ECU/tune alone are not possible. The power figures on a dyno can easily be manipulated by the operator, they could take your money and give you a dyno printout with that increased power figure showing. Only problem is that again, it's a scam. 

If you are keen to learn about how all of these things actually work, there are heaps of us here that can point you in the right direction of where you can go to learn about these things. 

  • Like 3

Yep, about the best you could expect from an ECU tune with no supporting mods would be about 10-15KW.

Anything that plugs into the OBD2 port and claims power/economy gains will be a scam ,just don't go there!

2 hours ago, Aramith said:

My car has 245KW.

At the flywheel, it is quite a bit less at the wheels where a dyno measures power. From what I have read a stock 370Z is around 200kw at the wheels, so the 370GT would be similar.

Edited by sonicii
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...