NZ R33 Long Term Build

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Just checked again, and yes both APP1 and APP2 are pretty much in sync

 

[R3N3]

11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just checked again, and yes both APP1 and APP2 are pretty much in sync

 

Interesting! Thanks for posting this.

makes me wonder how the pedal was able to calibrate..

maybe i need to try a different pedal?

in other news I have decided on my buttons for the keypad:

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

try borrow a pedal off another car  

Not setting up rolling anti-lag?

I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha

[R3N3]

13 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

try borrow a pedal off another car  

Not setting up rolling anti-lag?

I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha

We’ll see about the anti-lag… it’s a stock motor (for now)..

yeah, it’s so easy to chew up all the AVI’s and SPI’s! I needed the PDM for the additional inputs.

[fraz gts4]

Can you just swap the 5v and 0v wire on one of the pedal sensors?

[R3N3]

6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

try borrow a pedal off another car  

Not setting up rolling anti-lag?

I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha

What pedal do you use? From what I have read is different pedals can do things slightly differently…

https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/24/test-vq35-accelerator-pedal/

this site is saying the 350z pedal APP outputs should be different, which aligns with what I’m seeing…

[R3N3]

6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

try borrow a pedal off another car  

Not setting up rolling anti-lag?

I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha

Also, I’m wondering if this may be a source of my problem:

https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35278&p=74212&hilit=350z+pedal#p74212

apparently the injector return current powers the dbw circuit. Now, as I have removed the fusebox and gone PDM (the injectors and injector return are now fed from an 8A HCO output), which I don’t think I have set this output up..

Their problem also seems Identical to mine. I will have a play in the morning and report back.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, R3N3 said:

What pedal do you use?

I'm using a V35 Skyline pedal, same as the 350Z one but without the alloy pad (I did have a 350Z one but sold it as I wanted a rubber pedal to match the brakes/clutch).

46 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Also, I’m wondering if this may be a source of my proble

Doesn't say what car/setup so hard to say.

Generally Haltech support is good at getting back to you, probably still off this week. Hopefully next week you'll get a response 

[R3N3]

On 6/1/2023 at 11:12 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'm using a V35 Skyline pedal, same as the 350Z one but without the alloy pad (I did have a 350Z one but sold it as I wanted a rubber pedal to match the brakes/clutch).

Doesn't say what car/setup so hard to say.

Generally Haltech support is good at getting back to you, probably still off this week. Hopefully next week you'll get a response 

Problem all sorted. Thanks for your help @Dose Pipe Sutututu.

I had the “disable injector power when engine stopped” option on, which was stopping a +12v supply to pin A26. Turned the option off and all calibrates fine!

also, the FPG shroud came:

 

just waiting on some new Deutsch connectors to connect it up.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

FPG shroud looks pretty decent!

How are the air flaps held in place?

[R3N3]

Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

FPG shroud looks pretty decent!

How are the air flaps held in place?

They have 3x rubber tabs on each one that are pulled through pre-drilled holes. They are nice and tight. Quality is A+.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Nice!

might be an option if the current fan clutch dies  

I really hope someone slides into my DMs and wants to buy my car, I'll then stop donating money to the Nissan car gods.

[R3N3]

Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nice!

might be an option if the current fan clutch dies  

I really hope someone slides into my DMs and wants to buy my car, I'll then stop donating money to the Nissan car gods.

They are also releasing their aircon kit for the 33 in the next week or two… I have been looking into a new condenser for mine and can’t get anything under $1k. I’d rather spend more and overhaul the entire system..

haha. honestly, I’ve had an F80 M3 and as fun as they are, they are so intimidating maintenance wise. I was always scared I heard a noise etc. and there was no way I’d try work on that car.. BMW gods are much worse on the wallet..

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

lol... it's a never ending money pit isn't it? LOL.

Your car will be the best built R33 GTS-t I reckon, modernising a 90s JDM to match your previous F80 M3 that was stock lol.

[R3N3]

23 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

lol... it's a never ending money pit isn't it? LOL.

Your car will be the best built R33 GTS-t I reckon, modernising a 90s JDM to match your previous F80 M3 that was stock lol.

Haha, mine is nowhere near the calibre of some of the builds on here..

That’s the thing, I’m kinda expecting breakages in the 33 and that doesn’t phase me being that it’s now 27 years old. And when it does break, then I’ll even try fix it myself..

I’m looking at upgrading my ‘work’ car from a kodiaq to an RS4/6 later this year, then I can have the best of both worlds..

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

RS4/6 would be superb!

European cars seem to be well priced in NZ, unlike here in Oz!

[r32-25t]

Apart from commodores and falcons the entire Australian used car market is ridiculous compared to the rest of the world even before Covid tax 

usa 996 turbo 20k Australia 100k pre Covid 

[R3N3]

So no major progress, just sorting minor technical issues..

Haltech Temp Sensor Wiring - it appears that not all AVI’s are created equal… I’m a real beginner at this stuff, but when I mapped out my wiring plan, I used the haltech wiring diagram as a base. Now what wasn’t overly clear (to me anyway) is that temp sensors need an AVI with a pull-up resistor enabled for them to function properly. After several hours of troubleshooting and searching the haltech forum I figured out why my oil temp sensor kept reading 120deg… now I just need to re-pin my AVI’s around for all the sensors to work 100%.

IC7 Dash - there is just a couple of minor things that is holding it back from being 100% perfect… one of the main ones is the text boxes extend over the ‘bezel’ areas for some of the display boxes. You can see what I mean for my ODO below:

the other is that the dash does not act as an I/O extender, so the dash AVI’s are not available to the ECU. However, talking with Haltech, both of these issues will be resolved in an upcoming update to the dash. So @Dose Pipe Sutututu looks like this might be best for you, as you’ll gain a couple of AVI’s to get your cruise control going…

 

[Duncan]

21 hours ago, R3N3 said:

.....

the other is that the dash does not act as an I/O extender, so the dash AVI’s are not available to the ECU. However, talking with Haltech, both of these issues will be resolved in an upcoming update to the dash. So @Dose Pipe Sutututu looks like this might be best for you, as you’ll gain a couple of AVI’s to get your cruise control going…

 

Thanks, that is good information. It's pretty frustrating that Haltech aren't more public with their plans as this has been an obvious frustration since IC7 was launched. There was never an obvious reason that the dash could receive but not send on the CAN

In my case for example, I didn't have any ECU inputs left for GPS speed so I had to wire it into the dash, but GPS speed is critical to help implement the 200klm (or now maybe 140klm/h) limit for rallying. I was starting to research which other ECU vendor I should move to as a result, Haltech could have saved us both some trouble by saying this was on the roadmap

[R3N3]

So I thought I was pretty much done with the mechanicals, so decided to add add de-mineralised water to the cooling system. However, It wasn’t long before I heard a steady drip of water on the ground… bugger. A quick investigation showed it was one of the heater hose junctions at the back of the block. I contemplated trying to fix in place but I decided to just bite the bullet and pull the intake manifold off. Sure enough, I hadn’t tightened one of the clamps for the turbo water feed. Tightened that clamp and checked all others and then got the manifold back on.

while I had the manifold off, I decided to do a bit better harness routing to tidy it up a bit..

The fuel system has been checked for leaks (there were none) and the car is now sitting with water and fresh Penrith 10tenths 10w40 oil. Once I set my base fuel pressure, it should be ready to crank for oil pressure and possible first start tomorrow.. somewhat terrified.