Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The haltech controls it once its installed and a 2d or 3d duty cycle map controls its output, can be setup as open or closed loop.
I would recommend not installing it atm and wait until the haltech is installed with the mac valve installed at same time and then tuned. 

a potentiometer can installed wired to the ecu to control levels of boost via voltage. Another way is a 3d table with rpm vs tps or rpm vs ethanol or wheel speed vs rpm, even one of the mentioned with another overlay of the combinations.

End of the day the haltech needs to be installed with the mac valve to make use of it.

Edited by robbo_rb180
Added heaps of complicated information

Those boost controller units are for use with an ECU that can't do boost control, like standard or power FC. Haltech will look after that in your case, once it is in and tuned

  • 1 year later...
On 10/2/2022 at 8:19 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Didn't you post this question on Reddit already? If not here's my answer again:

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2013/02/rb26dett-vacuum-and-wastegate-diagram.html

image.thumb.png.d8add1784943822e07dc6ca950f479b0.png

Port 1 is the blue line. Port 2 is the green line. Port 3 is also the green line. The key point is that you will have to modify the vacuum line for port 3. Instead of tying port 2 and 3 together you cap the vacuum line on the combo coolant/vacuum pipe and the line on the plenum goes directly to the valve. Port 2 has unchanged routing.

image.thumb.png.53eed5193b324797ddc82e98b98fe2a8.png

As others have said don't do this until you get the new ECU installed and set up properly. Only do it once you're ready to set up boost control to reduce the number of variables.

Hey @joshuaho96 i got my car tuned last weekend, and we installed the 3 port mac. The tuner turned up the boost on the computer, but it wasn't actually boosting any higher... i'm re-reading your instructions and they are confusing. 

"Port 1 is the blue line. Port 2 is the green line. Port 3 is also the green line. The key point is that you will have to modify the vacuum line for port 3. Instead of tying port 2 and 3 together you cap the vacuum line on the combo coolant/vacuum pipe and the line on the plenum goes directly to the valve. Port 2 has unchanged routing."

What you said in quotation above, does not align with the diagram with the twin turbos.

According to the diagram, port 2 is the wastegate and would be the green line. 

 

56 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

Hey @joshuaho96 i got my car tuned last weekend, and we installed the 3 port mac. The tuner turned up the boost on the computer, but it wasn't actually boosting any higher... i'm re-reading your instructions and they are confusing. 

"Port 1 is the blue line. Port 2 is the green line. Port 3 is also the green line. The key point is that you will have to modify the vacuum line for port 3. Instead of tying port 2 and 3 together you cap the vacuum line on the combo coolant/vacuum pipe and the line on the plenum goes directly to the valve. Port 2 has unchanged routing."

What you said in quotation above, does not align with the diagram with the twin turbos.

According to the diagram, port 2 is the wastegate and would be the green line. 

 

image.thumb.png.49601aa968d8fbc7b7a1467209810ccd.png

Not sure I can make it any clearer than this. Notice how one of the hoses has a restrictor from the factory. Either cut it out, work it out with lubricant, or make a new length of hose without it.

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

image.thumb.png.49601aa968d8fbc7b7a1467209810ccd.png

Not sure I can make it any clearer than this. Notice how one of the hoses has a restrictor from the factory. Either cut it out, work it out with lubricant, or make a new length of hose without it.

are you in the states? i wish i could talk to you on the phone. Not sure if you're up for that. My number is 703-626-8787

Besides which, it is not important to know whether to hook port 1 up to the fuel tank, or the windscreen washer line. it is important to understand how the 3 port valve works. And then you can work out where to connect the ports all by yourself.

A 3 port solenoid valve has two states. Powered and non-powered.

In the at-rest, non-powered state, 2 of the ports are connected.

In the powered state, one of those ports is not connected to the 3rd port.

The one that is common to both those connections is called.....the common port. This one gets connected to the boost source.

The one that is connected to common when it is not powered gets connected to the wastegate actuator. This way, if the valve is doing nothing, you get wastegate spring base boost.

The one that is connected to common when powered is the vent. Vent to atmosphere or back to the post-AFM inlet as you see fit.

You can work out which connections occur when by just trying to blow through the ports powered and unpowered. Helpfully, the MAC valve also usually has a little diagram on the side that shows exactly how it works.

  • Like 1

What is confusing me is the green line going to the wastegates that is also connected to the plenum. Why can't i just replace the factory boost selonoid with a 3 port mac? Why do i have to cap off the factory dual vacuum/coolant pipe and use the line from the plenum?

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

Why can't i just replace the factory boost selonoid with a 3 port mac?

Because the factory boost solenoid doesn't work in the same manner that the 3 port valve does.

Riddle me this. How many ports does the factory solenoid have?

Riddle me also this. How is the factory solenoid used by the ECU? Is it just switched on and off, to provide a two state boost control system? Or is it pulse width modulated like a proper boost control system (ie, the sort that uses a 3 port solenoid)? Hot tip. It's not the second of those.

And so, you need to trash the factory plumbing and replace it with plumbing that will work according to the new system.

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

Why do i have to cap off the factory dual vacuum/coolant pipe and use the line from the plenum?

See above.

6 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

What is confusing me is the green line going to the wastegates that is also connected to the plenum. Why can't i just replace the factory boost selonoid with a 3 port mac? Why do i have to cap off the factory dual vacuum/coolant pipe and use the line from the plenum?

Factory solenoid is 2 ports only as others have said. To make a two port solenoid work you must tie the wastegate line to the plenum (boost source). That way when the solenoid isn't working the engine just makes wastegate boost. Then when the solenoid activates it vents to atmosphere (blue line). When you vent to atmosphere the problem with a 2 port solenoid is two-fold. First, it's a boost leak which is annoying. Second, you really want the pressure experienced by the wastegate to be as low as possible. With a 2 port solenoid the wastegate line will always see a pressure higher than atmospheric because the turbo's boost is bleeding both to atmosphere and into the wastegate line.

The 3 port splits the two states. Either you are sending boost pressure to the wastegate line (solenoid is off) or you are venting the wastegate line to atmosphere (solenoid is on).

Edited by joshuaho96
10 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Factory solenoid is 2 ports only as others have said. To make a two port solenoid work you must tie the wastegate line to the plenum (boost source). That way when the solenoid isn't working the engine just makes wastegate boost. Then when the solenoid activates it vents to atmosphere (blue line). When you vent to atmosphere the problem with a 2 port solenoid is two-fold. First, it's a boost leak which is annoying. Second, you really want the pressure experienced by the wastegate to be as low as possible. With a 2 port solenoid the wastegate line will always see a pressure higher than atmospheric because the turbo's boost is bleeding both to atmosphere and into the wastegate line.

The 3 port splits the two states. Either you are sending boost pressure to the wastegate line (solenoid is off) or you are venting the wastegate line to atmosphere (solenoid is on).

What happens if the factory solenoid is not activated and it is not tied to the plenum? Wont it just bleed the air back? And when you say blue line, isn't the blue line the turbo pressure?

Right now, this is how everything is connected in my car. According to the theory, everything should be working.. its just that other green line going to the plenum that is confusing me. 

image.thumb.png.3a661513e7e9f9bd45266e2edcbf8a4a.png

According to your explanation @joshuaho96 this is how it should be connected right? What i don't understand is that if i route all the lines like this... how is the plenum equal to the wastegate line? I thought port 2 on the MAC valve should be port the waste gate line?

I really appreciate you guys helping me look at these diagrams. 

image.thumb.png.63c80e90c9f5f7f911a7314fc043c95f.png

26 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

According to your explanation @joshuaho96 this is how it should be connected right? What i don't understand is that if i route all the lines like this... how is the plenum equal to the wastegate line? I thought port 2 on the MAC valve should be port the waste gate line?

I really appreciate you guys helping me look at these diagrams. 

image.thumb.png.63c80e90c9f5f7f911a7314fc043c95f.png

The blue line is not boost. It is a vent to atmosphere.

The green line going to the plenum is the boost source.

My original diagram already shows what you need to cap. You only cap one pipe on the engine and then re-route the hose to go to the boost solenoid directly. The rest is unchanged. 

30 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

The blue line is not boost. It is a vent to atmosphere.

The green line going to the plenum is the boost source.

My original diagram already shows what you need to cap. You only cap one pipe on the engine and then re-route the hose to go to the boost solenoid directly. The rest is unchanged. 

@joshuaho96 I'm sorry josh , i dont know if i'm dumb or missing something here, but your original diagram makes no sense with my configuration. I have internal waste gates.

This is what you said: "Port 1 is the blue line. Port 2 is the green line. Port 3 is also the green line. The key point is that you will have to modify the vacuum line for port 3. Instead of tying port 2 and 3 together you cap the vacuum line on the combo coolant/vacuum pipe and the line on the plenum goes directly to the valve. Port 2 has unchanged routing." 

based on that description of what you said above^^ this is what the connections should look like below:

image.thumb.png.7614208d64f527c79428a86c95a8f687.png

is that what you are suggesting? Port 1 on the Mac valve (vent to atmosphere) should go back to the turbo pressure?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...