Jump to content
SAU Community

how do i install this 3 port mac valve for boost control?


Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
2 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Alright, i connected everything properly, but my car isn't boosting past 7-8psi. Any ideas?

3 Port Solenoid is working, i hear it clicking. 

Stock ECU or did you end up popping in that Haltech Platinum? I'm presuming the latter, if so have you set up your output, boost maps, etc.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

Stock ECU or did you end up popping in that Haltech Platinum? I'm presuming the latter, if so have you set up your output, boost maps, etc.?

yessir, haltech platinum is in. I did multiple runs and my manifold pressure (boost pressure) never exceeds 8psi. All the settings are correct. 

Open boost with 33 hz. No matter what duty cycle % i put, it dosent change boost pressure. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

im about to just drive this car off a cliff

I swear i hooked up everything exactly like the diagram. could it be a boost leak?

No as you are making wastegate pressure. If was leaking it would creep.........

image.thumb.png.c79a13ecf6092b61572b35c8f920f80b.png
Above plumbing is the way to go. Don't run lines back to plenums, exactly like the above. Short runs of hose, super easy 
Check what MAC valve you have as some can be different with how they work. Greddy are backwards to normal in my experience.

Connect reference line to wastegates directly to see what it makes, do a run and log it. Then plumb in the solenoid its internal gate so can only go one way. Run it and log it. Add 20% to whole duty cycle table do a run and log it if get a change add 5% more do a run and log it. Do this until achieve target pressure.

Will need maybe 20-30% Duty cycle to see any change in pressure from actuator preset.
If this doesn't work take it to someone who knows what they are doing, its a super simple setup that has been tried and tested for well over 20 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

No as you are making wastegate pressure. If was leaking it would creep.........

image.thumb.png.c79a13ecf6092b61572b35c8f920f80b.png
Above plumbing is the way to go. Don't run lines back to plenums, exactly like the above. Short runs of hose, super easy 
Check what MAC valve you have as some can be different with how they work. Greddy are backwards to normal in my experience.

Connect reference line to wastegates directly to see what it makes, do a run and log it. Then plumb in the solenoid its internal gate so can only go one way. Run it and log it. Add 20% to whole duty cycle table do a run and log it if get a change add 5% more do a run and log it. Do this until achieve target pressure.

Will need maybe 20-30% Duty cycle to see any change in pressure from actuator preset.
If this doesn't work take it to someone who knows what they are doing, its a super simple setup that has been tried and tested for well over 20 years.

1. I thought this turbo pressure line comes from the plenum? Is there a way to get the turbo pressure line near the turbos?

2. How do i plumb in the selonoid in its internal gate so it goes only 1 way?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/15/2023 at 2:46 AM, kevboost7 said:

im about to just drive this car off a cliff

I swear i hooked up everything exactly like the diagram. could it be a boost leak?

This is just a part of learning how to modify a car.
 

10 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

1. I thought this turbo pressure line comes from the plenum? Is there a way to get the turbo pressure line near the turbos?

2. How do i plumb in the selonoid in its internal gate so it goes only 1 way?

1. When it comes from the plenum (before the throttle bodies) it accounts for the losses through the intake piping. Personally I do not think this is your problem.

2. I think the suggestion is to basically completely re-do the vacuum lines instead of using the factory setup. So basically you would plumb the turbo pressure line just after the twin turbo merge pipe. Then you would disconnect the factory hoses going into the wastegate and put in your own hose with a tee piece to join it all together.

I kind of find it hard to believe that the factory plumbing won't work for what sounds like a mostly normal configuration.

As others have said you should post clear, well-lit pictures showing what you've done. It may also be that your issue is wiring, a bad solenoid, your MAC valve actually has different port numbering/orientation than the normal ones online, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

1. I thought this turbo pressure line comes from the plenum? Is there a way to get the turbo pressure line near the turbos?

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

So basically you would plumb the turbo pressure line just after the twin turbo merge pipe.

This would require you to drill and tap into the alloy of the merge pipe, to put in a nipple, or weld a nipple onto the hot pipe after that point.

The reason here is that the drawing you showed, with a line coming from each compressor housing, teed together to feed the solenoid valve, only works when you have tapping points on the compressor housing, which you won't have.

12 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

How do i plumb in the selonoid in its internal gate so it goes only 1 way?

I really struggle to understand what you mean by "only goes 1 way". What was it you're trying to do there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

This would require you to drill and tap into the alloy of the merge pipe, to put in a nipple, or weld a nipple onto the hot pipe after that point.

The reason here is that the drawing you showed, with a line coming from each compressor housing, teed together to feed the solenoid valve, only works when you have tapping points on the compressor housing, which you won't have.

I really struggle to understand what you mean by "only goes 1 way". What was it you're trying to do there?

I was thinking of putting a nipple into the factory rubber hose or the aftermarket metal pipe after the merge pipe but yes regardless it's kind of annoying and impractical. I also really don't think it should be a problem if the factory boost solenoid was working prior to this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, yeah, there's no reason to avoid using the existing plumbing. What is there can be used to make it work properly. You just have to plumb it up correctly.

I re-iterate to the OP. If it is not working, it is NOT PLUMBED UP CORRECTLY.

And, to follow on from Joshua's repeated suggestion that the MAC valve might have differently labelled/functioning ports compared to the usual MC valves, I posted extremely clear instructions on how to work out which port is which, earlier in this thread. So there should be no excuses there either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Hey guys, sorry i just got back from my trip to greece. 

I was able to take a video of everything. See the link. Dont judge me for the spaghetti wiring/hose mess right now lol 

 

This is what your setup is:

Port 1 - atmospheric vent
Port 2 - wastegate port
Port 3 - Pre-throttle boost source

Compared against this diagram:
image.thumb.png.d63aa5459ec69ad4ec358bc87469ea3f.png

So the vacuum line setup actually seems ok to me? You might need to use an air compressor or just blow through the hoses. When it's off it should connect port 3 to port 2. When it's on it should connect port 1 to port 2 instead. Set it to 90% duty cycle on the Haltech and see if that is actually happening. Don't run the engine when doing this experiment and remember to set the values back to something normal afterwards.

Put 14 psi into port 1 vacuum line and verify you can hear it venting into the intake piping before the turbos. It shouldn't hold pressure substantially.

If all the function tests check out set a boost fuel cut for something very conservative like 2 psi over wastegate boost and set the solenoid duty cycle to 90%. If you still get stuck at wastegate boost then try just running with port 2 open to atmosphere with the same conservative boost cut. Before you actually set that boost cut the way I describe see if it works at 2 psi of boost for example. You don't want to find out after the fact whether the boost cut didn't work as intended. Make sure to set a large hysteresis as well in the fuel cut so you aren't bouncing off of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any recommendations on a decent replacement manifold that doesnt break the bank or require additional mods for the stock turbo setup? I figure if I'm going to pull the manifold off anyway to fix the studs might as well replace it. 
    • So I checked the turbo out today. Very minimum play at all just enough for the oil to take up when it's running. I did find an exhaust leak at the manifold. 1 stud all the way in the front is missing and the one all the way in the back is broken off. Front has visible signs of an exhaust leak. I'll fix that soon but that's not my problem still.  I also found that the nipple coming off the turbo had the hose capped off and a hose ran from the j-pipe by the bov going to the wastegate. I removed that hose and capped that nipple and put the turbo nipple hose back on the wastegate.  There was a ton of oil residue all through the charge side of the intercooler piping going to the throttle bodg. I'm thinking that's from the pcv. Doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo that was all clean on the pipes side.  Haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet, haven't had time been having to pull a lot of doubles at work. I did pick up some carb cleaner to clean the iacv but wanted to make sure I had a fresh gasket in case the old one rips when I pull it off.  I'm waiting on a MAF that was supposed to be here today but delayed to Monday. Have a double Monday and Friday and work all of next weekend so going to try to find some time in the middle of the week to try that out. Did about a 10m trip around the block today and towards the end the issues were coming back. Fingers crossed on this MAF but if not just going to throw a fuel pressure gauge in and see where I'm at.  Did notice today that I can definitely hear the injectors pulsing. Very audible clicking coming from them. Assuming that's normal? Should also mean CAS is functioning somewhat properly. After it warmed up when I started it the intermittent misfires came in again. Did start doing that before it was fully warmed up. 
    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
×
×
  • Create New...