Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting. Those turbocharged engine diagrams usually has all the boost go straight into the intake valve lol. So i thought they were the same thing. 

  • 3 weeks later...

Alright, i connected everything properly, but my car isn't boosting past 7-8psi. Any ideas?

3 Port Solenoid is working, i hear it clicking. 

2 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Alright, i connected everything properly, but my car isn't boosting past 7-8psi. Any ideas?

3 Port Solenoid is working, i hear it clicking. 

Stock ECU or did you end up popping in that Haltech Platinum? I'm presuming the latter, if so have you set up your output, boost maps, etc.?

25 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

Stock ECU or did you end up popping in that Haltech Platinum? I'm presuming the latter, if so have you set up your output, boost maps, etc.?

yessir, haltech platinum is in. I did multiple runs and my manifold pressure (boost pressure) never exceeds 8psi. All the settings are correct. 

Open boost with 33 hz. No matter what duty cycle % i put, it dosent change boost pressure. 

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

im about to just drive this car off a cliff

I swear i hooked up everything exactly like the diagram. could it be a boost leak?

No as you are making wastegate pressure. If was leaking it would creep.........

image.thumb.png.c79a13ecf6092b61572b35c8f920f80b.png
Above plumbing is the way to go. Don't run lines back to plenums, exactly like the above. Short runs of hose, super easy 
Check what MAC valve you have as some can be different with how they work. Greddy are backwards to normal in my experience.

Connect reference line to wastegates directly to see what it makes, do a run and log it. Then plumb in the solenoid its internal gate so can only go one way. Run it and log it. Add 20% to whole duty cycle table do a run and log it if get a change add 5% more do a run and log it. Do this until achieve target pressure.

Will need maybe 20-30% Duty cycle to see any change in pressure from actuator preset.
If this doesn't work take it to someone who knows what they are doing, its a super simple setup that has been tried and tested for well over 20 years.

23 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

No as you are making wastegate pressure. If was leaking it would creep.........

image.thumb.png.c79a13ecf6092b61572b35c8f920f80b.png
Above plumbing is the way to go. Don't run lines back to plenums, exactly like the above. Short runs of hose, super easy 
Check what MAC valve you have as some can be different with how they work. Greddy are backwards to normal in my experience.

Connect reference line to wastegates directly to see what it makes, do a run and log it. Then plumb in the solenoid its internal gate so can only go one way. Run it and log it. Add 20% to whole duty cycle table do a run and log it if get a change add 5% more do a run and log it. Do this until achieve target pressure.

Will need maybe 20-30% Duty cycle to see any change in pressure from actuator preset.
If this doesn't work take it to someone who knows what they are doing, its a super simple setup that has been tried and tested for well over 20 years.

1. I thought this turbo pressure line comes from the plenum? Is there a way to get the turbo pressure line near the turbos?

2. How do i plumb in the selonoid in its internal gate so it goes only 1 way?

On 11/15/2023 at 2:46 AM, kevboost7 said:

im about to just drive this car off a cliff

I swear i hooked up everything exactly like the diagram. could it be a boost leak?

This is just a part of learning how to modify a car.
 

10 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

1. I thought this turbo pressure line comes from the plenum? Is there a way to get the turbo pressure line near the turbos?

2. How do i plumb in the selonoid in its internal gate so it goes only 1 way?

1. When it comes from the plenum (before the throttle bodies) it accounts for the losses through the intake piping. Personally I do not think this is your problem.

2. I think the suggestion is to basically completely re-do the vacuum lines instead of using the factory setup. So basically you would plumb the turbo pressure line just after the twin turbo merge pipe. Then you would disconnect the factory hoses going into the wastegate and put in your own hose with a tee piece to join it all together.

I kind of find it hard to believe that the factory plumbing won't work for what sounds like a mostly normal configuration.

As others have said you should post clear, well-lit pictures showing what you've done. It may also be that your issue is wiring, a bad solenoid, your MAC valve actually has different port numbering/orientation than the normal ones online, etc.

12 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

1. I thought this turbo pressure line comes from the plenum? Is there a way to get the turbo pressure line near the turbos?

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

So basically you would plumb the turbo pressure line just after the twin turbo merge pipe.

This would require you to drill and tap into the alloy of the merge pipe, to put in a nipple, or weld a nipple onto the hot pipe after that point.

The reason here is that the drawing you showed, with a line coming from each compressor housing, teed together to feed the solenoid valve, only works when you have tapping points on the compressor housing, which you won't have.

12 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

How do i plumb in the selonoid in its internal gate so it goes only 1 way?

I really struggle to understand what you mean by "only goes 1 way". What was it you're trying to do there?

20 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

This would require you to drill and tap into the alloy of the merge pipe, to put in a nipple, or weld a nipple onto the hot pipe after that point.

The reason here is that the drawing you showed, with a line coming from each compressor housing, teed together to feed the solenoid valve, only works when you have tapping points on the compressor housing, which you won't have.

I really struggle to understand what you mean by "only goes 1 way". What was it you're trying to do there?

I was thinking of putting a nipple into the factory rubber hose or the aftermarket metal pipe after the merge pipe but yes regardless it's kind of annoying and impractical. I also really don't think it should be a problem if the factory boost solenoid was working prior to this.

Oh, yeah, there's no reason to avoid using the existing plumbing. What is there can be used to make it work properly. You just have to plumb it up correctly.

I re-iterate to the OP. If it is not working, it is NOT PLUMBED UP CORRECTLY.

And, to follow on from Joshua's repeated suggestion that the MAC valve might have differently labelled/functioning ports compared to the usual MC valves, I posted extremely clear instructions on how to work out which port is which, earlier in this thread. So there should be no excuses there either.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, sorry i just got back from my trip to greece. 

I was able to take a video of everything. See the link. Dont judge me for the spaghetti wiring/hose mess right now lol 

 

2 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

Hey guys, sorry i just got back from my trip to greece. 

I was able to take a video of everything. See the link. Dont judge me for the spaghetti wiring/hose mess right now lol 

 

This is what your setup is:

Port 1 - atmospheric vent
Port 2 - wastegate port
Port 3 - Pre-throttle boost source

Compared against this diagram:
image.thumb.png.d63aa5459ec69ad4ec358bc87469ea3f.png

So the vacuum line setup actually seems ok to me? You might need to use an air compressor or just blow through the hoses. When it's off it should connect port 3 to port 2. When it's on it should connect port 1 to port 2 instead. Set it to 90% duty cycle on the Haltech and see if that is actually happening. Don't run the engine when doing this experiment and remember to set the values back to something normal afterwards.

Put 14 psi into port 1 vacuum line and verify you can hear it venting into the intake piping before the turbos. It shouldn't hold pressure substantially.

If all the function tests check out set a boost fuel cut for something very conservative like 2 psi over wastegate boost and set the solenoid duty cycle to 90%. If you still get stuck at wastegate boost then try just running with port 2 open to atmosphere with the same conservative boost cut. Before you actually set that boost cut the way I describe see if it works at 2 psi of boost for example. You don't want to find out after the fact whether the boost cut didn't work as intended. Make sure to set a large hysteresis as well in the fuel cut so you aren't bouncing off of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...