Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its always seems easier when you think about, I know I have fallen into that trap.
Great you persevered with it and have got it on the road

So this was the car Hollands was chasing all those bits for.

  • Like 1
On 24/01/2023 at 8:42 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

Its always seems easier when you think about, I know I have fallen into that trap.
Great you persevered with it and have got it on the road

So this was the car Hollands was chasing all those bits for.

Yeah coming from relatively stock BMW's and going in and out of Regency for the last few years, it was a bit of a shock lol.

Yeah yeah, tbh he was like "you should buy this" so I made it his problem haha.

On 24/01/2023 at 9:50 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

I don't know if it's just me but a bunch of the photos aren't loading =/

Yeah I've tried to sort it, now I can't even edit my posts.
Not sure, I've put in a report to mods/admins.

  • Like 1

Post editing has been gone on these forums for many years. You have about 2hrs after a post is made in which to fix any typos etc. After that, no editing. For good reasons.

If you need something changed there is a "report post" button available in the ellipsis (...) menu on the top right of each post. You can ask a moderator/admin to make changes. You might need to proffer more supporting information, if your posted image links are so badly messed up that the forum software can't even work it out. The information required to work out exactly what was posted might not be extractable from the link text mess.

As to the better way to do this - I just paste all images directly into the thread. That way we don't end up with threads with dead links to images 5 + years into the future. Of course, if you want to retain control (ie the ability to remove images of your car) then this doesn't work. But then, any time you upload images to the internet you have to assume that they are out there somewhere, available to anyone who know how to look, forever and ever and ever.

  • Like 1

This looks like a great build. You should go back and fix the pictures though, its always best to upload them to SAU rather than linking them. In this case I think some permissions are restricting anybody from seeing them unless its you.

On 24/01/2023 at 1:02 PM, Adz2332 said:

I like the gauge idea. what does it read?

Did it pass regency with the forward facing plenum?  

NDS how much was the app?

The app reads pretty much whatever value the ECU handles,
See this for more info:
https://nisscan.com/nds-i-android/?v=6cc98ba2045f

  • Like 1

Dropped more parts off / picked up unused spares this morning.

All guards rolled and body being prepped for primer and paint. 1 month to the day till All Jap Day. Shell be right.

PXL_20230125_222928017~2.jpg

PXL_20230125_222117912.jpg

  • Like 2
On 01/02/2023 at 11:11 AM, DaymoR32 said:

nice to see a decent bit of effort going into this, have you decided what colour you are going with? or is it a suprise?

Stock KG1. Keep it easy.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...