Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse. 
 

if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 

Buy someone else's modified car. It'll be risky - but so is modifying it yourself.

People with Modified cars are often ready to sell. Find a nice sorted one, pocket the difference.

  • Like 1
On 12/23/2024 at 12:05 PM, GTSBoy said:

It will blow out fast.

$3k for turbo, could easily be a bit more.

$2k for manifold, at the lower end, and therefore likely to be more.

$1k for dump, could easily be more.

$1k for coating these things, really should be done.

$1k for desirable extras, like EGT ports, EMP ports, heat shielding. Hell, probably more like $2k.

You get close to $10k just for the main parts, without pipework fab, gaskets, fasteners, labour.

$15k is rock bottom. If you need intercooler, fuel system, clutch, ECU, you're pushing $30k. It is just too easy to spend money.

Sheesh, isn't that the price of a full engine rebuild almost?

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

Sheesh, isn't that the price of a full engine rebuild almost?

It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 

  • Like 1

It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work.

As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a medium to big builds tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 

Common theme, also FYP

  • Haha 1

If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.

Late to this party but here is your go to shop in perth - https://www.facebook.com/gsautoworksau

GTSBOY is on the money cost wise, drive in and out will cost you 15-30k or more. 

 

Some items that will save you money 

- plug in link ecu g4x is much cheaper than haltech.  

-Pulsar turbo, seem to be "OK" now, never used one myself

You really don't have to build the motor, E85, headgasket, studs and a good RB26 will live for ever. 

 

Swapping over the twins won't save much as you still need ecu, tune, fuel system etc.

 

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, admS15 said:

If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.

-9s are discontinued supposedly. But you can still get Nismo R3 turbos which are something like a -7 but subtly different? -7s are also available. HKS GTIII-SS and GTIII-2530 are also available but they're journal bearing MHI turbos.

Depending on conversion rates and when you factor in Australian David Jones pricing on fabrication these days, this kit (bolt on affair, zero fab) nearly seems worth every dollar.

https://www.spectrummotorsportssolutions.com/products/copy-of-gt-r-rb26-single-turbocharger-kit

Their disclaimer:

**Please note - While this kit includes everything needed to convert to Single Turbo without additional Fabrication, Professional installation is suggested. The PS reservoir will need to be moved from the stock location, however everything else fits R32/33/34 GTR w/ OEM AC and Power Steering Pump**.

1 minute ago, MBS206 said:

And I'd be astonished if a bolt on kit truly were bolt straight on, hence I bet the recommendation for a pro to install it.

The quality of car enthusiasts these days, need I say more?

  • 2 weeks later...
On 26/12/2024 at 10:32 AM, thejacksta88 said:

So guys I'm thinking I'll go 

6boost manifold

gt35-900 

50mm waste gate 

full exhaust 

Haltech platinum pro 

Walbro 255

do I need to upgrade coil packs and would anyone suggest drop in cams  ?

The rule of thumb for any GTR thats doing a single turbo conversion is..... seqy... and when i say seqy, i dont mean the pos PPG either. *flamesuit on*

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...