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Aussie R31 discussion...


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settle down pete..... if this isn't resolved soon we're going to have to have a jelly wrestling match to sort it out....  

Oh god no..... theres no way on earth I'd watch that

You do nit-pick a lot Karina, and RB30E+T's still make bugger all power in any case, George's TI is still making less than my stock FJ20ET I think

I still think TI's are too heavy to bother modding anyway

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Alright Karina, nows time to stop this and let it go. Ghostrider (Dennis) has quit the verbal garbage so now it's time to quit prolonging this by directly quoting him. Please? My PM inbox is on fire at the moment... just agree to disagree, ok? I might remind you that Dennis verbally abused me (and has subsequently apologized) but I let him go, so as an SAU moderator I suggest you do the same. Cheers :)

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So! now we can get back to real R31 talk.

I made a comment about why should cazz bother to turbo her Ti.

Well in case anybody might want some info, I have just crunched some numbers and made some enquiries and for about $1200-1500.00 I could get an R31 RB30E "that's n/a" 185Kw at the flywheel @ 6400 rpm.

In days gone by, when I was a boy, it was considered, the absolute performance engine would produce 100HP/litre, so at 2962cc 296.2HP would be the absolute infinite engine package and 185Kw converts to 247.9HP

If we want to put this into perspective, a VS Dunnydore Senator was rated @ 185Kw, remember the 185i badges on those Phantom coloured dunnydores and they weighed about 1600Kg, have this in your R31 4 dr Ti @ about 1300Kg and a sleeper, you might just have. But a real sleeper has a lot more than shear power, it handles as well, but this may be a problem for some. Pardon the sarcasm.

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Nup, its a TI, its not worth bothering with.   Actually scratch that... its an Australian R31 so not worth bothering with.  Too heavy, live rear end, whiny diff and a VL motor

all to their own. I've more than bothered with my car and it drives great, when I get the new mods done. It will be even better

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the dash in total haha i hate my aus spec one

btw, love your 31

strangley enough

i was going to paint mine blue

i had those exact rims at home... didnt fit the autospolier...

i went red, sold rims to mate, im regretting it bad , yours is hot!

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Nup, its a TI, its not worth bothering with.   Actually scratch that... its an Australian R31 so not worth bothering with.  Too heavy, live rear end, whiny diff and a VL motor

mr hr30 weighed in with engine at 1300kg

my 4 door aus 31 in at 1340

oh no 40kg

the irs in my 30 was so pathetic id rather the aus live axle

and as strong as a fj is, you can keep the laggy pig to yourself

now before you get all touchy, remember i owned a 30, so im not taking random shots

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all to their own. I've more than bothered with my car and it drives great, when I get the new mods done. It will be even better

Your right!

I'm not a big believer in the R31, or at least the Aussie delivered R31, it's a bit of a brick compared to the earlier models, largely thanks to Malcolm Frazer.

As for handling, do some research, don't trust anyone, believe half of what your told and filter the rest. There are some great books on handling and it's not as simple as just lowering and firmer springs and shocks and sway bars, as some would suggest. Remember, they are trying to sell you something and not necessarily the best for your car.

Pedders will not disclose their spring rates and as I have found only tell you what you want to hear. I have a set of lowered Pedders N12 Pulsar springs, and upon contacting Pedders, quoted the part number on the tags and asked for the spring rates and I was told they were about 50% more than they actually tested at, so be aware of the pitfalls when buying springs.

Spring rates are very important, shock rebound rates the most important and other than Whiteline would have us believe, it's the outside diameter that is the action part of a sway bar. You never see an F1 car with solid sway bars, they're usually 50+ mm in diameter and chrome molly, or titanium tube with the end mounts welded to it.

I went to great lengths to get my sway bars made from hollow section spring steel, yet they are over 50% lighter than the stock solid ones.

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mr hr30 weighed in with engine at 1300kg

Tom,

How many bags of cement did you have in the boot for your HR30 to weigh 1300kg?

My PNV with all the electrics only weighed 1170kg at time of importation and the factory state max dry weight of all models is 1250kg and that's the Ti hatch with the huge rear glass tail gate.

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Dont get me wrong, i didnt mean it was a simple matter of stiffening up the suspension...

Ghostrider is right...research....a lot. Its amazing what you can find out by people that have started from scratch and come up with a good package.

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Sorry Rezz, but somehow I've become the instigator when all I've been trying to do is explain something which is rather black and white, so I'm going to quote Ghostrider one more time... just for old times sake.

Please advise this dumb ass old fart how you get 130rwkw strapping on all the VL turbo bits when the VL turbo was only rated at 150Kw from the factory.

It is my understanding that a loss of between 20 & 30% was expected to be lost through the drive train.

This would result at the absolute best 120, but more likely 100-105rwkw.

So as you can see, I was only acting on his request. :D

Unless of course it was a rhetorical question to begin with.

.....and to the people who think Ti's are slow, we have at least 2 Ti's (RB30ET) here in Victoria which are pulling low 12 - high 11 1/4 mile times, with all electrics intact. :P

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