Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't bother with the gtst actuator....when they were sitting around for nothing they were worth it, but now days because lots of people do the change they are getting expensive. just buy a manual boost controller "bleed valve" instead. they are more adjustable and start at about $40.

If I had a road gtst (and I did or about 8 years), I'd keep it under 200kw. Bit of boost, maybe a computer (nistune or powerfc, haltec is double the price for no benefit on a basic setup). Definitely shocks, springs and swaybars (guy sydneykid's kit). And then enjoy it.....spend any money you had left on entering motorkhanas and track days :)

  • Like 1

I'd dump the 12psi actuator in just for that little bit more of a gain. Hmmmm... Might just go for a nistune+tune and hope for a 210kw? Is that realistic?

Dont go the 12psi actuator unless you get an ecu. Or youll just end up in r&r

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

  • Like 1

Theres always something you didnt think of or notice that needs fixing.

I think you should go the cheap option, you can always do more later.

One thing i noticed with having the bonnet open at the back, is that fumes come into the cabin.

The inlet for cabin air is in the plenum (under the front window) and because its a really bad idea to chop big holes in the firewall, its really the only place you can get fresh air into the cabin.

So i realize now, the vented bonnet i have is only good for racing, and i have to close the back of my bonnet, the best place to vent is in the front guards.

Like they said, cf isnt good in the sun, just go fibreglass, its not much heavier if at all. Many cf bits are just cf on the surface, fibreglass underneath.

Painting mirrors will cost NOTHING at all, i have plenty of black paint, and gold pearl powder if you want to play with that. Save it for the engine or computer.

And from my experience with my Nistune, i agree that more isnt better, smoother and more filled out is better.

Just remember, speed comes from the power delivered ALL through the rev range you use before changing gear. So a fatter curve is faster than a high peak.

Didn't think about the air venting business into cabin... that's an interesting thought. I think I won't go for cosmetic but might chase 210kw or so.Nistune and tune or something. Not sure if I want to chase 250kw just yet... gah the choices!!

Jeremy I'll take you for a cruise soon in my 33. Maybe this week some time?

Sitting in the airport now

KEEN MARINE! ! ! !

Hmmm... maybe. Haven't been since Mik last entered.

Need New Camera Practise. :D

Do eet! :D

Oh, cams licence expired, cant afford racing at the moment anyway.

Still would like to go for a look. :thumbsup:

Yes! I would like to see the beast in real life ;)

Last month I was out there and it was a little wet. Turbo Ovlov almost went into the tyres at the first chicane :wacko:

Yeah they are small that's for sure. They wouldn't even be comfy for a medium build person.

Picked up the r33 from storage. Took roughly half hour to get started and then puffed black smoke for a while but now it's perfectly fine. Put a fresh tank of fuel in and took it for a good spin.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...