Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the 255/40/R17 AR1 for $180 a piece. $120 more for a set over the RS-RR, worth the gamble to me. 

I won' be testing these for a month or 2 realistically, will report back when I have something to say. I can safely say they will be faster than my old 235 RS-R so don't expect much from me other than "wow I went faster".

My only previous "real" Semi experience was on a set of shagged RE55s lol Since then It's been only RS-R as they last so long. 

 

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
So. I used the AR1s on saturday.
Did not beat my pb.

I would say they are about on par in grip level to my nt01s I had previously.

How far off pb and what was pb set on? Also what pressure where you running? Apparently the ar1 likes higher pressures ive been told.

Yeh. So I think that's where I went wrong with them. Dropped the pressure to quick.

pb was set on the nt01s. These were 6 tenths off of them. But I couldn't get the pressures right.

So next time will be Wakefield where I'll keep the pressures to mid 30's.

On 3/1/2017 at 9:46 PM, kingtube69 said:

Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (Initial review) 

Dry Grip: 9/10
Wet Grip: 9/10
Value for money: 8/10
Wear: NFI yet

I swapped from the Rotalla to the MPS4 and there is a massive difference, so much more predictability and so much more stability in the wet. So far I have done about 500kms and they don't disappoint. I'll post an update eventually once I have wound up some more kms on the tyres. 

So, 8 months on I still have these tires but had to replace two as I had a puncture in one and opted for a smaller size in the front to stop scrub. Definitely a great tyre in the wet but I'm struggling to see their greatness in the dry. I've noticed that when they haven't been warmed up they aren't anything special. I know that you can't always get the best of both worlds so I've updated my review below

Dry Grip: 7/10 (lower)
Wet Grip: 9/10 (Same - still great)
Value for money: 8/10 (reasonably priced and competitive with RE003)
Wear: Great! Still on my original set 8 months on and they are around 70% (the front are still near new since being replaced)

I'll try RE003 next time they have a sale on I think. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Im also doing buladelah hill climb this Sunday, so I'll see how they feel with higher pressures.

Have heard they're good for hill climb as they work from pretty much the first corner. Good luck on the weekend and looking forward to your comments afterward.
Im still rocking the taleb ss A050 from last year, doing Sandown in a couple of weeks, that should be the end of them. Im going to douse them with octopus grip, see if i can get a pb on their last run.
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Opinions on NT-01 vs. AR-1?
I have 275/35/18 Hankook R-S3 at the moment, will have to replace them soonish (next year). Would like to get some opinions before handing over cash (hence the early post).
Mostly (~70-80%) track day use (~10 minutes sessions, nothing serious). But does have to be able to hand some wet street use.

Yes I am aware of GRKGTR's NT-01s for sale. Or I can get another set of R-S3s.

AR-1 closest size 265/35 (I don't think I can cram 295/30 under the guards).

NT-01 275/35 size available

Or I can get AD08R (very slowly) in 285/30 and be done with it.

Cant say but i am getting a set of ar1 fitted as we speak. @Hadouken can probably shed some light on ar1 vs nt01. I think he said they where on par. Other people i have spoken to seem to think ar1 is slightly better.

$205 a piece. Lets see how these go against the old A050 i pulled off. If they get within a second, ill be happy. Just got to replace the brakes i cooked last weekend and then book another track day at Sandown for a back to back comparison. Interestingly, these things weigh 2.7kg each more than the worn A050.

 

IMG20171026153447.thumb.jpg.ed9112e4af7721fac5d07ef4b54799e8.jpg

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...