Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Brakes


Sydneykid

Recommended Posts

I just redid the entire brake system on the Stagea

DBA slotted fronts as per this thread

Bendix 1250 front pads

Bendix 1144 rear pads

Genuine Nissan rear brake discs

Genuine Nissan rear handbrake shoes

Rebuilt all the brake calipers (new seals, new pistons in 1, cleaned, some silver coating, greased)

The total was about $1250

so the dba slotted rotors I got off you a year ago fit, hey Alex?

arranging my tuner to fit the rotors, front pads and allround Maltech braided brake lines, mid next month

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got some genuine Nissan Pit Work Stagea Series II 4WD front brake pads from Japan the other day and this is written on the box:

Part Number: AY040-NS129

Fuga [Y50]: VQ25DE, VQ35DE - '04/10-

Skyline [V35]: 350GT - '04/11-

Also stamped into the pad itself: HITACHI HP63H FF

I have a sneaking suspicion rwd & 4wd are different but I could be wrong

I hope this helps anyone still looking for their SII

If you need more info (pics/measurements etc) just ask!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the stock Stagea brakes are good if you have a good pad in there...and trust me I drive it as if its a sports car so braking is very important to me.

not me

even with endless pads and stainless lines with better brake fluid

i was still getting brake fade and other random problems

once i switched to drilled rotors/gtr brakes/and changed the fluid again to some trust fluid

it was golded on the touge

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just asked my local nissan dealer regarding s2 stagea brakes

jap codes as follows

Front AY040-NS098

Rear AYO60-NS029

he said he was going to try and find out more about them and how to get them in will let you know how i go

post-26739-1187767895.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anybody familiar with the 260rs brakes (discs and pads?) i would imagine they are the same as the 33GTR? Wats the 33gtr specs? Like wats the part numbers for the rotors (DBAs) and the part numbers for the pads (bendix, ferrodo ETC). Thanks

Edited by stasis
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys,

I hope I'm not asking a question which has been asked before - I have searched. Just like to confirm I have this correct...

Series 2

Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33 GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm, all of the other dimensions are the same. Unlike the Series 1, this is very minor machining, I would not expect any problems with this, we do it all the time on the race car rotors.

DBA have these in stock currently

Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by maching down the OD by 5mm, all of the other dimensions are the same. Unlike the Series 1, this is very minor machining, I would not expect any problems with this, we do it all the time on the race car rotors.

Does this mean that a 33 GTST rotor will fit the front of a series 2 stagea, *with* machining down of 6mm? Or without machining? And same with 32 GTR to fit rear of series 2 - it needs the 5mm reduction of OD?

Not talking about the DBA rotors, but stock 33 GTST and 32 GTR parts.

Thanks!

daveb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi all,

bought some front pads for my series1 stagea using the 1398bendex number

said dont make these anymore but got me lucas pads instead

thought the part number might help people

no. lucas pads gdb3273

also says on box that these are used for

nissan infiniti(usa) o1.98>01.94

nissan leopard 01.93>

nissan maxima qx 10.94>

hope this info can help other stagea owners

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

I hope I'm not asking a question which has been asked before - I have searched. Just like to confirm I have this correct...

Does this mean that a 33 GTST rotor will fit the front of a series 2 stagea, *with* machining down of 6mm? Or without machining? And same with 32 GTR to fit rear of series 2 - it needs the 5mm reduction of OD?

Not talking about the DBA rotors, but stock 33 GTST and 32 GTR parts.

Thanks!

daveb

i have r32 GTR front and rear brakes on my stagea, no problems

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My setup, using Castrol Dot4 super response fluid

Rear:

Stock discs

Bendix Heavy-Duty brake pads

Maltech stainless steel brake lines

Front:

DBA slotted rotors

Bendix Advance brake pads

Maltech stainless steel brake lines

Works very very well in the urban environment. Impressed actually, considering it hasnt been a huge upgrade. Peddle feel is nice and progressive compared to braking performance. Gives me confidence to stop in a hurry if need be. never had an accident before......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hope that this has not already been covered.... Understand that there are few R33/R34 brake upgrade options but only really need a basic set-up.

Getting some pulsating when brakes are pressed. Local mechanic tells me that my discs are warped but are too thin to be machined. He has offered to order some original Nissan Stagea replacement rotors ex-Japan but I would rather get something done locally to save time and $$$!

Need help from a brake place in Sydney that knows some stuff about our Stagea's & can fabricate / replace brake pads + rotors.

Thanks guys.

Edited by stag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hope that this has not already been covered.... Understand that there are few R33/R34 brake upgrade options but only really need a basic set-up.

Getting some pulsating when brakes are pressed. Local mechanic tells me that my discs are warped but are too thin to be machined. He has offered to order some original Nissan Stagea replacement rotors ex-Japan but I would rather get something done locally to save time and $$$!

Need help from a brake place in Sydney that knows some stuff about our Stagea's & can fabricate / replace brake pads + rotors.

Thanks guys.

You might want t to check the GB section. Theres an ongoing GB for RDA (ithink) brake rotors. Very cheap. You might want to give him the dimension (diameter of your rotors and thickenss) and he will sought you out. Get the slotted ones don get the dimpled onr cross drilled ones as they might crack under heavy use. Let us know if you have any problems

Yudy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stasis,

i just sent rs73 a pm re: rotors for my S2 Stagea. I did a quick 'stagea' word search in the thread but could only find ure post re: "for A Nissan Stagea it has the R33Gtr Brembo brakes on it. How much for a front and rear? Std, slotted and dimples?...." but no answer.

Did you end up getting them? If so how do they compare to the standard rotors, did you install them your self or how much did you have to pay to get them installed.

Also, what brake pads are you using.... Will be sure to get the slotted ones :worship:

Duncan,

Will give Grey Imports a call tomorrow... are they the ones in Annandale???

Maybe Nathan can help me install the rotors i get from the group buy mentioned above!

Thanks for the contact!

Edited by stag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stasis,

i just sent rs73 a pm re: rotors for my S2 Stagea. I did a quick 'stagea' word search in the thread but could only find ure post re: "for A Nissan Stagea it has the R33Gtr Brembo brakes on it. How much for a front and rear? Std, slotted and dimples?...." but no answer.

Did you end up getting them? If so how do they compare to the standard rotors, did you install them your self or how much they you have to pay to get them installed.

Also, what brake pads are you using.... Will be sure to get the slotted ones :worship:

Duncan,

Will give Grey Imports a call tomorrow... are they the ones in Annandale???

Maybe Nathan can help me install the rotors i get from the group buy above!

Thanks for the contact!

From memory the sloted front is A$300/paor delivered which is preety good price. I havent got them yet. My rotors will be in for another set of brake pads before i need to change them. I will be getting this rotors for sure when i need them. Im using endless SSS now it came with the car when i imported it in. As it is estimated at 30% left on the pads, i will be switching to EBC Green. Reason is my rears have EBC Green ATM. I prefered Ferrodo though. Cos they say its better to use the same brand pads for front and rears as their coefficients are the same but somo people might think it doesnt matter. I prefer Ferrodo they are only AS$50 buck difference in price between EBC and ferrodo. Its up to you really. Boys on the budget?! EBC, not so on the budget?! Bendix or Lucas, spoil yourself?! Ferrodo. It also depends how you are going to use the car. Normal driving or track? If normal driving EBC or bendix should be ok. Hope this helps.

Yudy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yudi,

rs73 tells me that he may be able to source some rotors specifically for my S2 RS4's but wanted to check over all dimensions before he can confirm. Have let him know that i will be taking her to Grey imports next week to see what my other options are. On a budget so will probably go for EBC or Bendix, dont plan to take her to the track at this stage :)

Duncan,

Spoke to Nathan earlier today and have booked her in for next week. He mentioned that he has recently done yours & may have some rotors in stock that will fit mine. He sure sounds like he knows what he's on about. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the hook-up!

Edited by stag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yudi,

rs73 tells me that he may be able to source some rotors specifically for my S2 RS4's but wanted to check over all dimensions before he can confirm. Have let him know that i will be taking her to Grey imports next week to see what my other options are. On a budget so will probably go for EBC or Bendix, dont plan to take her to the track at this stage ;)

Duncan,

Spoke to Nathan earlier today and have booked her in for next week. He mentioned that he has recently done yours & may have some rotors in stock that will fit mine. He sure sounds like he knows what he's on about. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the hook-up!

You taking your car to grey imports for? For the brake rotors or the pads? If for the rotors i dont think you will find any cheaper RDA rotors around for that price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK so I just bidded $500 on an R33 GTS4 that no one seems to want. Waiting on a call from the agent to see if I won. 32 GTS4 is for sale. I can't deal with the temptation to mod it.
    • Might be there for work later in the year. Wouldn't mind catching up with you fellas - can't have too many beers, but will consume copious amounts of takoyaki while executing an asian squat on the side of the road while you blokes sort out your hangovers.
    • I know one example is a anecdote not data, but I'm running the same Aeroflow 525 at full voltage through a regular relay, and while I've had other fuel problems including melting the factory fuel hat, the pump itself has been fine for years. Of course, they aren't *that* expensive these days, you could swap in a new one and see if the issue is resolve. I think you had a previous thread about fuel problems, have you been monitoring and logging fuel pressure? Is there anything voltage related (for example does the voltage go up when the pressure goes down)
    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
×
×
  • Create New...