Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i read all of this and still don't have a clear answer. i probably missed it. so will any rim (in skyline stud pattern)17 or 18 inch diameter, 9 inches wide with a +30 offset fit?? or do u need a different width and offset front to rear. id like to have the same width and off set all round i can rotate the tires, but if i cant then i wont worry about it. or should i just use a narrower rim like 8.5 or 8 inch

That width and offset should be fine, Ray. R34 GTR wheels are 9" wide and are a pretty common fitment on Stageas.

If you've got an AWD Stagea, make sure you keep the same width wheels front and rear, or AT LEAST have the same rolling diameter at each end. That way, you won't stuff up your transfer case due to different wheel speeds at each axle. And, as you've already mentioned, you can rotate tyres without any hassles.

That width and offset should be fine, Ray. R34 GTR wheels are 9" wide and are a pretty common fitment on Stageas.

If you've got an AWD Stagea, make sure you keep the same width wheels front and rear, or AT LEAST have the same rolling diameter at each end. That way, you won't stuff up your transfer case due to different wheel speeds at each axle. And, as you've already mentioned, you can rotate tyres without any hassles.

yes it is AWD. im planing on running 245s all round. height profile will depend on if i get 17 or 18 inch rims.

Edit: i found a set of wheels i like they are front 18X8 and rear 18X9 with an Offset of Front 35,Rear 38. will these fit?? im guessing they wont.

Edited by Raysboostin
  • 3 weeks later...

Im running 18x8.5 +18 all round on my S1 stagea with 225 tyres

Im not sure if theres any spacers etc as I only got the car last week so havnt had a chance to check it out.. but the rear seems to have a wider track than the front, or is this normal.

IMG_1241ass.jpg

the front can actually take a larger wheel/.lower offset than the rear

I had to roll my fenders quite a bit ot get an 18x9+20 to fit well.

i haev an 18x9 -5 (wiht a 25mm spacer total of -5) on the front with a roll as well, but it fits the same as the rear

its a skyling thing, all skylines can have a lower offset in the front

the front can actually take a larger wheel/.lower offset than the rear

I had to roll my fenders quite a bit ot get an 18x9+20 to fit well.

i haev an 18x9 -5 (wiht a 25mm spacer total of -5) on the front with a roll as well, but it fits the same as the rear

its a skyling thing, all skylines can have a lower offset in the front

hey mate did you have any pics? would be keen to see how that front looks ;)

+30 in the rear shouild be fine if your not to low

I had to pull the rear fenders a bit to get the 9 +20s to fit without a huge amount of camber

you can really fit anything you want on it. i had an 18x10+20 wheel on there, but i didnt pull the fenders far enough, so it hit the strut becuase of the amount of camber i was running.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Digging up an old thread here... but could somebody please tell me what offset I need for 17" x 8"? Car is a Series 2 RS-Four V (auto)...

I have sussed that the PCD is 5 x 114.3, the rim needs to be 17 x 8 to run a 245/45 profile tyre to match rolling radius, now I just need to know what offset to use. I think the closest match in the wheels I have in mind are +40... if I go to 8.5" width I can get down to a +35.

Thanks,

DaveB

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi all,

Thinking of putting these wheels on my stag: post-40162-1210843777_thumb.jpg

They are 17" Lenso's

I think they look pretty good and will suit my stag nicely pl,us cant really go wrong for $300!

My question is they currently have tyres on them are 215 / 45 / r17 (no tread), my current tyres are 215 / 50 / r17.... Will they fit these new rims?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...