Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i know the new style bi-xenon's are actually all in 1 projector. Basically, when the normal lights are on, the hi-beam is actually on as well, but shielded. But if you need to flick to hi-beam, it's ready to roll as the hi-beam is already on... it's just the shield that moves.

So basically hi-beam and lo-beam is on at the SAME time, it's just the hi-beam is always shielded when not needed.

From the look of your pics, you have 2 projects, 1 hi-beam, 1 lo-beam?

unfortunately i'm not handy enough to be retro-fitting Xenon projectors to my R34 headlights, although i wish i was. I'd prob have to source another set of R34 lights if i did even want to attempt it, as i'd imagine it would take me a while :rant: Would love to to do it though.... does change the front look of the car quite a bit though.

Does honda have a bi-xenon option? or would i have to get some new BMW/Merc/Audi bi-xenon projector?

well i know the new style bi-xenon's are actually all in 1 projector. Basically, when the normal lights are on, the hi-beam is actually on as well, but shielded. But if you need to flick to hi-beam, it's ready to roll as the hi-beam is already on... it's just the shield that moves.

So basically hi-beam and lo-beam is on at the SAME time, it's just the hi-beam is always shielded when not needed.

That is correct, there is a solenoid which operates and moves the shield out of the way giving the full xenon lamp unshielded for full beam! :)

From the look of your pics, you have 2 projects, 1 hi-beam, 1 lo-beam?

No, I have 4 x Bi-Xenon projectors, as in all 4 on for lo and hi beam!

Engine20.jpg

*** Ignore the sidelights, that was just a trial fit! ***

unfortunately i'm not handy enough to be retro-fitting Xenon projectors to my R34 headlights, although i wish i was. I'd prob have to source another set of R34 lights if i did even want to attempt it, as i'd imagine it would take me a while :rant: Would love to to do it though.... does change the front look of the car quite a bit though.

Does honda have a bi-xenon option? or would i have to get some new BMW/Merc/Audi bi-xenon projector?

I chose the Audi units because they are Bi-Xenon and because they are made by Hella and therefore fit most headlight units, the BMW ones don't fit in the R33 headlight units (Bi-Xenons that is). As for the Honda units, I don't know to be honest, it wasn't an option available to me at the time.

Edited by Matt J

that is INSANE!!!!!!!! 4 bi-xenon projectors!!! you MUST put up some night time pics when you get the chance....

you must blind everything within 50km's of your car in a 180 degree arc :cool:

that is INSANE!!!!!!!! 4 bi-xenon projectors!!! you MUST put up some night time pics when you get the chance....

you must blind everything within 50km's of your car in a 180 degree arc :cool:

I'll take some pics early Feb when I get home.

They are bright but still road legal on lo beam, on high beam... they are just AWESOME!

Very rarely get other road users complain about the brightness - only time I get flashed is when going up hills etc when the shield cutoff falls or rises into oncoming drivers, oops.

That is correct, there is a solenoid which operates and moves the shield out of the way giving the full xenon lamp unshielded for full beam! :P

No, I have 4 x Bi-Xenon projectors, as in all 4 on for lo and hi beam!

Engine20.jpg

*** Ignore the sidelights, that was just a trial fit! ***

I chose the Audi units because they are Bi-Xenon and because they are made by Hella and therefore fit most headlight units, the BMW ones don't fit in the R33 headlight units (Bi-Xenons that is). As for the Honda units, I don't know to be honest, it wasn't an option available to me at the time.

heard about abbey motorsport do some wicked GTR............is you one making 550 plus HP......ohhh....mad ass lights tooo

heard about abbey motorsport do some wicked GTR............is you one making 550 plus HP......ohhh....mad ass lights tooo

Mine is a hand built 'Top Secret' tuning Japan/HKS 2.8 engine with HKS T04Z and OS Giken 6 speed sequential, all the work (engine fitting, fuelling and tuning) was carried out in the UK by Abbey Motorsport - just shy of 600BHP ATW at the moment.

Thanks, I made the lights because the standard halogen units are vey very poor at night!

Mine is a hand built 'Top Secret' tuning Japan/HKS 2.8 engine with HKS T04Z and OS Giken 6 speed sequential, all the work (engine fitting, fuelling and tuning) was carried out in the UK by Abbey Motorsport - just shy of 600BHP ATW at the moment.

Thanks, I made the lights because the standard halogen units are vey very poor at night!

Twin turbo Light house........hell not bad at all.... :)

have you guys who put xenon projectors into non-projector headlights (eg. R33) used a trim bezel or make a fibreglass surround?

got some close up pics of them with the lights off?

i take it all you boys from the UK found this thread from here?

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/67640-ga...gtr-revamp.html

have you guys who put xenon projectors into non-projector headlights (eg. R33) used a trim bezel or make a fibreglass surround?

got some close up pics of them with the lights off?

i take it all you boys from the UK found this thread from here?

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/67640-ga...gtr-revamp.html

Yeah mate followed the link^^^

Never bothered with any bezels, I just gutted the halogen lights and rebuilt them with the Bi-Xenons.

I played around with bezels at the time but they looked much better without them so I left them off.

Not that it would be a massive job to fit bezels though.

I'll post some close up pics when I return to the UK....

  • 5 weeks later...

well here's how they look on the car.

i reckon they look like S2000 headlights a bit now.

I'm a bit worried that when they were assembled the cut off shield was put in upside down (ie. across the top of the projector instead of at the bottom of the projector), so the light once cut off and reversed by the convex lens allows light at the top and not bottom... (if that makes sense).

Will test them out and see if they've been done right soon...

med_gallery_1486_103_180477.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_576044.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_49037.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_55558.jpg

med_gallery_1486_103_450987.jpg

wegs, seriously do a search man. I've done like a hundred threads on it. It'll be gay. that's it.

ronin, i'm not sure what you mean by havin gthe cut off shield across the top. If it is how I think it'll be, your light will be up, and the cutoff will be down the bottom, so it'll be reversed. THAT IS, if it is mounted how I think it is.

Cheers

MANWHORE,

remember that the lens flips the image upside down; like your eyes (your brain then reverses the signal from your retina so that it looks right-way-up).

So, if the cut-off shield is at the top of the assembly, the light is released at the bottom, then switched upside down by the lens and light will come out the top only.

Similarly, if the cut-off shiled is at the bottom, the light is released at the top, switched by the lens, and only light is released at the bottom (correctly.

I think we've put it together the right way :)

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...