admS15

How do you think the noise developed in the first place.. Watch ACA for upcoming skid vid feature[emoji6]

Thanks for the response, i did already inspect the tail shaft centre bearing which was ok. When i get time, I'll have a better look at the rh driveshaft, from memory i do remember that one in the past having some unusual in/out play compared to the other side. I may remove it if i need to for a better look. I'll let you know how i go.

Recently car has developed a rear end knock. RHS. Noise is audible when taking off, slowing down and then accelerating again slowly, around corners accelerating slowly noise is also present. Sounds like something knocking against chassis, knock knock knock sound as suspension is loading/unloading. Noise is consistently there. I have checked the obvious things, loose exhaust, rear bar, boot, anything inside boot, play in bushes. All look ok. There is a fair amount of diff backlash but no more than last time i checked when noise wasn't occuring. I have run the car on stands through the gears and no noises unloaded. There is no play when trying to wiggle the wheels at 9 and 3 o'clock or 6 and 12. Subframe has lock collars installed, bushes have seen better days but subframe seems secure. I was suspecting rear coilovers or top hats. I removed them and inspected, all look and felt good, i greased the upper bearings and put back in on opposite sides to see if noise changed sides but its the same, rhs knock. This rules coilovers out. Is it possible it could be the cv's? Im running out of things to look at and at my whits end with it. Probably going to take it past my trusted local mechanics for a look. Rear end is also fitted with hicas lock bar, whiteline upper camber arms, traction arms and sway bar. Sway bar looked a bit close to subframe, so i removed it and went for a drive to see if the noise went away, no go there either. Car drives and feels fine otherwise. Anyone got any ideas what i can check before going to mechanics?

Good thinking, might be a good idea to wrap the end near the dump pipe with some sort of heat proof material or make a heat shield [emoji106]

I stand corrected Sent from my A1601 using SAU Community mobile app

The dick like looking thing is an intake silencer and the other thing is the blow off valve recirculation plumbing inlet.

Location is springvale south 3172 Melbourne. Will post at buyers expense. Heres some pics and measurements. Rotors are around 29.2mm, min thickness is 28mm. Enough meat for a skim and some more good use. Pads are around 14.15mm which is pretty much new thickness for them. Pm or text on 0402294740 if interested.

R32/33 324mm brake upgrade kit. Will also suit s13/14/15 using r33 gtst callipers. HFM calliper adaptors with 8.8 grade bolts (used in vgc) RDA Plain 324mm rotors (used, will most probably require a skim) QFM A1RM DB1170 pads (99.9% brand new, used for a couple of days on the street before i upgraded my brake system.) Works well as an entry level upgrade and provides some decent repeatable stopping power. $240 for the whole lot. Will take some measurements and decent pics of everything tomorrow.

Stop being a homophobe and do it.

Any updates Richo? Haven't seen this thing out there for a while.

Aren't you already running nistune? Just get the latest feature pack with flex option, add sensor and then tune for e85. Your maps for 98 are already there. Your additional cost will be the feature pack and sensor, sensor should be under 200, not sure on feature pack. Dosepipe could probably quote you for those. Just thinking out loud. Dedicated E85 wouldn't be too bad anyways. If you go that way, make sure you save your 98 maps, so you can switch back if needed/required.

Yep, one more mod. E85, 300rwkw will help sell, increase value of the car, i am guilty of telling those things to my wife too[emoji6]. The truth is, a stockish car at a low price is the easiest to sell. Good to hear you're keeping and going to enjoy it a while longer[emoji106] So are you thinking flexfuel? I would strongly recommend it for the added flexibility and never having to worry about not being able to get fuel. Sent from my A1601 using SAU Community mobile app

I run a dw340 in mine, is fine for 310rwkw and has been going for around 18 months without issue. Good if your worried about current draw or fuel heating. Bad side is they are pricey for what they are and you could probably get a walbro 460 cheaper. I managed to get my dw cheap which is why it was an easy decision for me. The walbro 255 will handle e85 although not recommended but isn't big enough for the task. Scotty has been running a pair on his vq25 stagea for years now. Does this mean you're now keeping your car?

This is weird, i would put it down to being a greg issue. Unfortunately, i don't think I'm going to be much help here. Good luck with figuring out what voodoo is happening [emoji106]

Could the noise possibly be the iacv or cold start valve doing its thing on start up? Mine makes some pretty weird noises from there until its up to temp. Edit, after re reading your updated post with additional info. Unlikely to be what i suggested.

You kents are cooked, 2 speed glide is where it's at[emoji6]

Skid vids not loading...

Nice, looks like you chopped every commo there, lol.

Rnd 1 25th feb, Rnd 2 4th feb? U may want to fix that[emoji12]

Walbro 255 Around $100. 1400 left over for coke and hookers[emoji106]

That is the iacv, adjusts idle rpm to meet the target your ecu has set. They do make buzzing noises under certain conditions. You can drive without it. The world will not end. Ps where's my eye fillet? Still waiting..

Thanks JC[emoji106] im glad they didn't turn out to be an expensive mistake. I think i can further improve them with some better ducting and I'm probably going to cut out most of the rotor backing plate shields to try and keep the brake temps under control and the pads cooler and happier.

Cheer up sunshine, you're on the home stretch now. You just gotta keep it together a little longer[emoji12]

2 of the big ones [emoji12]

Update on Sandown, the day got off to a troublesome start, was getting misfire between 5-6k rpm, didn't properly sort it till after lunch with a combination of new plugs, gap change and boost duty cycle changes. By the time everything was going good, the track temp was a bit high and greasy. There was a number of cars that went off and made contact with Sandowns walls. Ouch. I managed to put in my best lap after lunch and ended up with a 1.23.9. Not a pb but happy with another lap in the 23's. So, onto the brakes. The stoptechs performed flawlessly. The bias felt perfect, no lock ups or any funny business. I basically drove like i would have with the stock brakes, it wasn't till towards the end of the day that i realised how much harder i could brake with these. It felt like i could just keep pushing the pedal harder and harder and the car would just pull up. I definitely need more time to adjust to this setup and change my technique and braking markers to take advantage of the extra stopping power. The v2 type d brake pads felt great. I can't really say for sure what the difference felt like as im using a different calliper from before but what i can say is that they didn't give up at all when i strung out 5 hard laps back to back and stopped the car reliably time after time. They do feel like there is a little more bite but otherwise much the same with good progressive feel. They have quietened down now on the street but still not as quiet as the previous version. They look to have held up ok from a wear rate perspective as well. I would say they are a slight improvement on the already very good originals and hard to beat at their price point. The Skytanic itself made it through the day unscathed, other than the misfire early on it was all smooth sailing. Managed to finish 9th quickest overall out of 97 cars. Not a bad effort for a daily driven boat. Highlight of the day was trying to keep up with checkbuzz's r33. Im close but not quite there. Seems like he was able to get out of the final turn on to the straight a lot better than me and that was where i was losing ground. Suppose I need to work on that corner. I haven't bothered with a video yet, not sure that i will but i do have quite a few pics. Here's a few