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admS15

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Everything posted by admS15

  1. Are you using the correct factory Nissan yokes, washers on the studs. They are intended to allow movement of the manifold as it expands and retracts from heat.
  2. Need to see broken evo bits on bench. Otherwise, it means your not trying hard enough[emoji12]
  3. Fair enough, now that we have those details.
  4. If it aint broke don't fix it. That goes for the oil pump upgrade too. Save the $ and if the time ever comes that a rebuild is needed, do it all properly then. Meanwhile don't rev the thing to the limiter all day long and it should last a fair while longer. It hasn't gone for 27 years because its weak.
  5. The thermistor, which I believe is what you are referring to as the refrigerant sensor is located on the ac core inside your dash. In my r33 I was able to access it by removing the glove box and getting a little crafty. In the end it was just a loose connection on the plug that made my problems go away. If the thermistor isn't working, it wont allow the compressor clutch to activate.
  6. Attessa kill did not work for me when I tried the other day:(
  7. check to see if the bov has been blocked. People put a piece of tin at the bottom of the bov to block it and make it do pigeon noises. Replacing the pod filter with a factory airbox will also reduce any induction noise and flutter.
  8. How'd you go, is the car ready to rock n roll? I just signed up for the tampered day on the 11th. Hope to see you there.
  9. I doubt a local clutch place will be able to supply you with something but worth a try.
  10. Bleed both, cant hurt. Try Osaka imports in knox for a used clutch line or find a local hel distributor.
  11. You can replace it with one of these, goes from master to slave cylinder http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-CLUTCH-Line-kit-NISSAN-Skyline-R32-GTS-T-GTST-Full-Length-/271611272122?hash=item3f3d4b1bba:g:5OwAAOSwnDZUG52L Pm Dose Pipe Sutututu (johnny), he can probably do a better price. The other options are brand new oem from Nissan, wil most likely need to be ordered or second hand oem from a wrecker like skyline spares in Sydney or Osaka imports in Melbourne. Where are you located by the way? As far as bleeding at every joint, it means where the hose screws into the master cylinder, you need to loosen it 1/2 to 1 turn and bleed the master cylinder from there, tighten the fitting fully and move on to the next join and repeat and finally bleed at the nipple. Does that make sense to you? You may be able to get away with just bleeding from the nipple you may not.
  12. Smart move[emoji106]
  13. To launch, (manual mode)hold brake down hard and I mean hard. Accelerator to the floor and wait. Should start spooling after 5 or so seconds, hold it there for a bit then release the brake and feel all that heavenly glory of your head slamming into the headrest. It works that way with a stock turbo. Don't know how the Highflow will go. What Highflow? For burnout, you'll most probably need to drop the front drive shaft.
  14. As far as the 124 spider, looks like it's another option for hairdressers [emoji16]
  15. Looks to be all good. Thanks prank[emoji4]
  16. Take 2
  17. Android app
  18. triple post
  19. double post
  20. When I saw abarth, I thought you drove one of these.
  21. looks like a slightly rounded nut. Job for some trusty vice grips
  22. It also helps to run a tube from the nipple into a small bottle with some fluid in it so it can't suck air back in, when bleeding from the nipple. Bleeding nipple, ouch
  23. Follow that method. As it says, bleed at every connection point. Bleed from the nipple after all other joints are done.
  24. If that is the one with the hole in it, you need to change it with a new or 2nd hand good one. You then bleed it from the nipple above the hose in your pic.
  25. You really need to replace the line otherwise you won't get anywhere if there is still a leak.
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