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admS15

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Everything posted by admS15

  1. Looks like a neo rb25 turbo . The I'd plate says rb25det. That service sticker says 25de. Don't know what's going on there but it's def a turbo rb.
  2. Also don't forget to get decent brake pads and fluid. It's important to be able to stop when you make your car quicker. Intima Sr brake pads are the current hotness that people are using.
  3. Air flow meter. You will require 1 when aiming for above 220rwkw using a nistune or any air flow meter ecu. Google would have yielded the same sort of answer. There is so much info online about skylines. You should spend a bit of time researching and you'll get an idea of what needs to be done. Try and concentrate on the more current sort of info.
  4. Much agree with the above. Need a new thread for dosepipes diy rb25 rebuild.
  5. There is a nistuned ecu for $350 and a z32 afm for $150 for sale in the for sale section right now. That would be a good start and cheap. I think it's proximity who is the seller.
  6. Looks tough as, especially rear view. Very nice.
  7. Kids these days....
  8. If the flap isn't moving freely, an actuator isn't going to fix your problem. As I stated in your other thread about this, you can try freeing it up by spraying wd40 or equivalent on it and working it loose or remove the turbo and have the wastegate looked at by a professional.
  9. +1 for plazmaman. Hit up@Dose Pipe Sutututu (Johnny) for a quote.
  10. A Kando turbo I used to have developed a sticky gate from heat exposure. The collar that goes between the activation arm and flapper would bind. The first time I removed the turbo and used some wd40 and big pliers and worked it loose until it operated smoothly. The next time I just simply took the actuator arm off sprayed plenty of wd40 and worked it loose again. If I was you I would check the gate for smooth operation with the actuator arm not attached.
  11. No, check the gap on the spark plugs. 0.8mm is what you want. The $4 spark plugs are fine, BCPR6ES or BCPR7ES is what you want. If it still misses at 0.8mm your coilpacks probably need replacing. If its stock ecu you could be getting r and r. This happens if the ecu detects too much airflow and tries to protect the engine by dumping fuel in it. Try turning the boost down a bit to say 7-8 psi and see if the miss goes away. Try all that and report back, cheers. Buy some new $4 sparkies while you're at it and make sure you get the 0.8mm version BCPR6ES, not BCPR6ES-11
  12. That looks like a tow hook that attaches to the front of the car. Probably behind the front number plate or anywhere else on the front bar where there is a small removable section.
  13. Assuming the shell you bought has an Australian compliance plate you will just need to get a rwc and register the car in your state. New number plates will then be provided to you.
  14. To op, thanks for putting the results up. Good to see someone put up some factual data[emoji106]
  15. Why do you need to pull the j pipe off? I can remove and replace coils and plugs with it in place. I use a 1/2 inch uni swivel attachment to get no.4 spark plug out.
  16. 4 inch exhaust or 4 inch tip?
  17. Should of got a red one. Everyone knows red is faster[emoji6]
  18. 4k is a very good price for what's on offer. This is a perfect start for a cheap track hack. Glws.
  19. You could get a metal bush made up and insert into the 14mm holes and then just use your 12mm bolts. Or if the threads are in the adapter use a time sert or helicoill to reduce the size. I know of people who have used both methods successfully. When I was in a similar situation, I just drilled out the holes to 14mm and had some reducer bushes made up just in case I ever wanted to revert to stock calipers.
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