admS15

M35 VQ25DET rocker cover leak Hey guys, got an interesting one here. Popped the bonnet the other day as something didn't sound right, could hear a hissing sound like a boost or vacuum leak. Pulled the compressor out and did a boost leak test. Couldn't pinpoint the spot until I put a small hose line into my ear and fished around, turns out the air leak was coming from below a coil pack. Obviously it is coming from the rocker cover seal, the funny thing is that there is no oil passing through, just air, spark plug well was dry as a bone. Has anyone experienced this before? Would this be considered a boost or vacuum leak? Im wondering if in fact it is a shagged seal or maybe the pcv has shit itself and is causing this. As most of us know the seals are non serviceable and new rocker covers are around $300 each. I managed to find a passenger side for 180 brand new but it is the drivers side I require and cheapest I cold find was $318 delivered. I have simply put some 3 bond onto the coil pack seal to try and temporarily seal it up, haven't started it yet, letting it properly cure. Has anyone successfully changed seals of an existing rocker cover. You tube methods look uninspiring, lol. Thoughts and experiences please.

Needs rb transplant

Have just been unfortunate enough to have replaced the turbo on my M35. It is definitely diy able but by no means an easy job. Patience is the key. What makes it difficult, is the lack of access to the dump pipe/t3 flange bolts. The bolts are more than likely rusty and fused on. Each bolt takes quite a while to remove because of this. You will need a jack, stands/ramps or hoist, wd40, inox or penetrine etc to spray the bolts with and let soak overnight (i used chemsearch yield) worked brilliantly. A range of extensions, uni swivels for your ratchet, long spanners, shorty spanners, an obstruction style 14mm spanner helps with dump pipe bolts as well, a 22mm spanner for the 02 sensor. A couple of brake line clamps to clamp the coolant feeds so you don't have to dump the coolant. You may have to make or bend a spanner to remove one of the heat shield bolts or smash it off. You will need to remove the front pipe, brackets, disconnect the gear shifter and then unbolt the gearbox cross member and lower transmission to give you access to dump pipe bolts. If you've removed turbos before you will eventually get there, if you haven't, it's not the car to learn on. Just pay someone else to do it and save yourself the headaches.

T51r

None. I have tein, they where on my car when I bought it and in new condition. If I payed money for them, I would have been pissed. Look at these 2 brands mca or shockworks, otherwise leave it stock.

I replaced the oil line with a braided one just for good measure and easier install/removal in future.

Have been dealing with this the past couple of days. It's been a shit couple of weeks. Started with cel 0340 which is drivers side cam sensor. I bought the wrong one initially, so ended up changing both. Straight after that a clip in the handbrake drum assembly decided to let go and start clunking while driving along. Went to the wreckers and sourced 1 from a mid 2000's maxima. All fixed. Went for a drive and started hearing a squealing, buzzy sort of sound on boost and then boom, no more boost. Bloody shitbox. Have spent the last couple of afternoons removing and refitting turbos. Fun job that is. Nearly there now. Just got to put dump and oil line back on and should be back in business.

Nismo centre requires different stub axles that are equal lengths. Factory Nissan vlsd has two different length stubs. Usually Nismo diffs come in a kit including stubs, oil and other bits and pieces. I have read that two of the longer stubs from a vlsd can be used but not sure if that is accurate. You can buy the Nismo stubs separately for around the $300 mark.

Only reason I asked was because there was one for sale for 650 on gumtree, bnib but it didn't come with the stub axles which made it not such a good deal. If yours is complete, you got yourself a bargain and a half.

Normal for Nismo fuel gauge

4.3 if drag racing and for circuit with slower corners. 4.1 if daily driving and highwaying. Did you buy that Nismo diff on eBay/Gumtree from a Melbourne seller?

Welcome to the club. I've been good, I'm still paddling the 33 in my profile pic and still loving it. Do you still have an s chassis?

Ive been running some with e85 for roughly a year with no issues.

Sounds tough but skid vids not loading[emoji12] [emoji106]

Are you captaining a boat these days Alex, or are these for a friend? Cheers Bill[emoji106]

Fit new plugs

How old are the coilpacks? Try some new plugs. If it still does it, try gapping to 0.7

Possibly due to less restriction you are making more boost and power at that rpm and it's just enough to cause misfire. What plug gap are you running?

240-270 rwkw on 98, 290 - 320 rwkw on e85. Give or take a bit depending on type and brand of dyno.

Needs Brap Brap vids

This. LSA [emoji6]

Kiwi, over what time frame is the 20k done. oil companies used to tell us oil loses its viscosity after 6 months, now with synthetic they say 12. Wondering if your analysis proves it can keep for longer.

Yes they use a lot of it

There is but once you've gone through it, you'll realise how simple the setup was before he went full on with roll cages and huge aero in the last couple of pages. Was still quick as before that. BTW the engine is unopened, stock cams, manifolds and internal gate turbo.

Nice, I see an rb30 in the future. Will make the number plate even more meaningful