niZmO_Man

That engine bay alone will tell you it isn't 55,000km old. Look at the intake plenum paint for once. Has it been tracked its whole life? Have a look underneath at the chassis/suspension/diffs.

Heaps of tyres are available in that size. I've got RE001 in that size (came with wheels). http://www.tempetyres.com.au/tyre_section.php?BrandName=&TyreWidth=255&TyreProfile=40&TyreDiameter=17&TyrePattern=&TyreLoad=&TyreSpeed=&RunFlat=

These things are insanely fun. You should buy it.

55k windback km? That engine bay doesn't look too flash. The whirring noise sounds like timing belt. Either the cover is bent and rubbing on the pulley, the belt is rubbing somewhere or the belt is tensioned too tightly. But at that price for a R33 (assuming everything else is good), I wouldn't worry too much. Just budget a replacement engine or a rebuild.

Penrite

You're on your P's, so forget about turbos. Where is it leaking oil from? Ticking sounds like oil is too thin. Not sure if it got worse or you bought it like that. Try thicker oil. Wait until you're off your P's then buy a turbo one (or sell your car and get an R34).

Yeah it'll bolt up. I think, since the shaft isn't sitting snugly it may wobble a bit. I didn't take the bush out on my R31, no issues, but the RB30E doesn't rev as high as RB20. I doubt there would be much damage, if any. As for slave, it may be the wrong one.

Some policies may be voided if you don't list mods. Something to do with the mods not being road worthy or something blah blah easy way out for the insurance company.

This listing (281131105103) has been removed, or this item is not available. Also, if you read the rules, you would have seen this: 7. No external links! - Do not post links to items being sold on e-bay, or other forums. If you wish to start a thread advertising the same items on SAU, you must include all details and price in your thread. Asking people to refer to e-bay for more info is not acceptable. If you're too lazy to copy and paste the details on here, your thread will be deleted.

^ True, I replace the ones in my R31 every two years lol. As for those cheap coilpacks, they are fake (there's a post in here somewhere that shows the difference). Hopefully they a few years so it's not a complete waste.

After owning both and daily driving them, I would say the GTS-t is a better daily. Don't discount the RB20DET so much, they are a great engine. I slapped a NEO6 turbo on mine and easily returned 10L/100km or less if I stopped boosting it so much. Car was completely stock (engine, exhaust, suspension/wheels). Very easy to live with, and even had a factory sunroof! (Type M). GT-R, a lot more expensive to run (12+L/100km with very easy driving), parts are more expensive, it's heavier and there's more things that will go wrong (ATTESA, HICAS) mainly because all of them will be thrashed. BUT, and this is a big one, the way the GT-R drives is on a completely different level. The GTS-t feels tail happy, but is easier to drive (lighter, smaller turning circle). You can have a quick squirt through some hills/corners without much effort and it will be fun. GT-R feels like a restrained animal. The turbos comes on hard, feels heavier, as if more effort is required to drive it. But once you're on boost and ready to move, GT-R will decimate a lot of cars and quite easily yourself. You really have to take it to track days to fully open it up, it's just far too dangerous on the streets. If you aren't driving much everyday and have the cash to spend when required, get the GT-R. If you do a fair bit of driving, get a GTS-t with as few mods as possible. Don't get me wrong, a near stock GT-R is very reliable, same with a GTS-t. Vehicle's history obviously plays a big part.

From what I've read, the Walbro likes good current supply. I would do the wiring mod anyway, better to be safe than rely on standard wiring (which was designed for original pump).

How about a 3" cat back for $250?

Read the rules before posting. How about some pictures, location, price.

$250 each or $250 for all six? If all six, they're fake ebay ones (unless someone bought them off Nissan then sold it to you for extremely cheap, which I highly doubt).

I've read a few people say pre 93 GT-Rs have oil starvation issues. What I want to know is what Nissan did to the R33 engine that stops this. Long nose crank is to stop the oil pump from breaking at high engine speeds.

Hahahaha these people running 10+kg/mm springs on the street are funny. Test drove an R32 with "drift" suspension, got the car airborne on some bumps. Was hilarious. Mate sitting in the back seat was hitting his head on the roof.

You have funny friends. Transfer case gets worn quicker when the AWD is used more, e.g. mismatched tyres causing the ATTESA to be almost always engaged. I think it's the fluid which overheats and clutch packs wearing out.

The copper spark plugs won't last as long as the more expensive ones, but they're so cheap I wouldn't mind replacing them every 10k-15k km. It sounds like you're running factory coils, they're 10+ years old now and wouldn't be working as awesomely as new ones. You can always get new Yellowjacket coils for a very good price. Even if your old coils are working "fine", new ones make a difference (well they did on my car, but mine is turbo). I can't watch the video loud (at work), but if it's running smoother than before, maybe just drive around for a bit until you can replace the coil packs. Also, why would you need an aftermarket uprated fuel pump for an N/A?

I hope you had 400 lbs springs instead of 400 kg springs lol.

Last question: Nope.

I assumed/imagined a suspension shop can mount an upright onto their dyno machine and then tune/get specs to rebuild the dampers to the springs.

Get six BCPR6ES spark plugs (they are like $3 each), gap them to 0.8mm (they should already be 0.8mm so check the gap), put them on and see how the car runs. Sounds like failing coilpacks unfortunately. Could be the other ones starting to die. I put yellowjackets on my R32 GT-R, the slight miss on idle is gone and revs noticeably better. I use 1.1mm plugs now as well (better spark, BCPR6ES-11).

Quality thread. Will eat popcorn again.

Dammit why didn't you sell them last week Lol Good luck with the sale.