joshuaho96

https://www.goo-net.com/usedcar/spread/goo/16/700070889930190903001.html Maybe worth a look? Not a lot of photos of the critical parts like the undercarriage + engine bay.

https://www.goo-net.com/usedcar/spread/goo/16/700070889930190903001.html 4M yen is 55k AUD not including cost to bring it in the country.

The value of the 6 DoF IMU is basically to provide yaw rate and lateral g in a single box here. The problem is where does the yaw rate signal even go? Not helped by the lack of any documentation on installation here. Another plausible explanation is to artificially amp up the lateral g signal to ATTESA when yaw over a certain threshold is detected. But you need to be able to adjust those thresholds because the R32, R33, and R34 ATTESA maps are all different. The DTM II is adjustable for this reason. Only yaw input I'm aware of is in the R33 and R34 for Super HICAS.

A proper mobile website is a lot better than the cancer that is Tapatalk.

If nobody here is interested you could try Bring a Trailer. It's an auction site and prices tend to be closer to what the market will bear instead of some arbitrary randomness from time/location.

The intention with "OBD1" is to refer to pre-OBD2 diagnostics that were OEM-specific like Consult. The 300ZX TT in the US at least would go to wastegate pressure if it detected knock. Common PPI inspection point is to see if the engine builds the specced boost. If it maxes out the stock gauge the car has been tuned, if it shows less than nominal boost then the ECU detected det or a malfunction.

Modern turbo cars will be specced to run 98 RON but will also get by on 91. The instant they detect detonation they run the 91 RON tables. There will be a slow ramp back towards 98 but it takes multiple tanks of 98. If you interrogate a modern ECU with the right scan tools it will tell you the estimated octane/quality for each tank of fuel. If you live in California like me then the ECU will reliably complain about low quality fuel but the car will continue to run without audible knock. I'm sure the RB26's OBD1 8 or 16 bit ECU is not nearly as advanced but even back in those days those ECUs would run wastegate pressure and altered timing/fueling tables when they detected knock.

Indeed, why would you do that? OEMs tune their engines to run 98 too. The CR, cams, everything is designed to maximize efficiency and power with 98. The problem is you have people that take their brand new car and then decide to save a few dollars and put 91 in it. Even though that is an incredibly stupid idea people do it anyways. Another possibility is that you get a batch of bad gas or you drive out into the middle of nowhere and 91 is your only option. A good tune needs to account for those possibilities and be able to protect the engine if it's a street car. If you're going full race and you're only ever going to pour fresh race gas into the tank then sure knock protection doesn't matter but these are real issues to think about for a street car.

Fill the car with 91 from an empty tank and do a few full throttle pulls if you want to find out just how good the tune really is. OEM tunes and engines are built assuming that you will put in 91 RON at some point, maybe even indefinitely. They have to survive however many det events it takes for the ECU to pull timing to a safe level and keep running reliably without making EGTs go through the roof despite retarded ignition timing and rich fuel mixtures. I personally do not have a great deal of trust in most tuners. From what I have seen many tunes out there are not very refined.

r33gt-r.com is his blog. A lot of interesting background on the R33, various mods, etc. He's currently a lawyer at Nissan so he's slowed down on the posts but it's been pretty interesting through the years.

If you follow Aki's blog at all Ohlins are definitely the way to go. They are quite stiff already, there is more to suspension than raw spring rate. For bumpy roads excessively high spring rates will cause the car to have worse characteristics. Nismo uses Ohlins DFVs for their N-Attack Pack and CRS package so I think the dampers + springs are well validated.

Most of the point of the VSpec is the suspension and A-LSD. Not much else to write home about. If you do go with coilovers I would suggest the Ohlins Road & Track.

"Full forge" engines are nothing to write home about. You get more strength to take more power yes, but it's not a magic bullet. Any detonation event when you push that hard (250+ hp/L) is going to be catastrophic. Keep in mind that forged engines need higher clearances as well, that means it's more likely that you'll get piston slap on cold start and increased wear. A stock RB25 can go hundreds of thousands of km before needing a rebuild if it isn't abused. If you don't really know what you're doing and you want a warranty, stay conservative.

The Nistune ECU assumes a constant fuel pressure, you need to duty cycle the pump at lower RPM/load if you don't want to run rich there. You might be able to tune around that problem but generally speaking you want to avoid confounding variables in your fuel tables as much as possible.

Yeah, it's tough. People want to sell off their junk and want to mislead people on the condition.

Looks amazing underneath there. I'd love to see photos/details as well, I just missed this due to work in the past few days.

Shouldn't be anything legal, it's been popular in Japan for a while now to import stuff like 240Zs from desert states in the US or mostly dry areas like California back to Japan. The dry climates make rust less likely, even if UV aging is worse it's mostly just an issue of repainting the car.

I think California is a crazy place to live for reasons other than just grey market import laws. If you want a house near work here be prepared to pony up 1.2 million dollars for a 2 bedroom townhouse with a tandem garage, even more if you want to be within biking distance. Traffic is unbelievable but driving is often the only way to get work. I used to have a commute that was ~45 minutes without traffic but turned to 75-90 minutes with traffic from 7 AM to 9:30 AM and 4 PM to 7:30 PM, sometimes even longer if people were especially bad at driving that day. But people stay in this crazy place because many of the high paying jobs are here.

R33 GTS25ts in Australia have a kind of similar reputation so...

There's some guy in Japan looking for a clean, mostly stock 1995 R33:

Those diffusers are cosmetic, that's for sure. If you want any effect you want both a front and rear diffuser, preferably covering the entire bottom of the car. For a rear diffuser consider sourcing the R34 VSpec diffuser, it is pretty close to bolt-on. Front diffuser is more difficult though.

The hard part will be swapping out the turbos + intake components. The HKS ECU to my knowledge does not require tearing up the harness, it's a plug and play ECU. It also mentions repair history. Even if you don't buy it, I think checking out that car + Garage Defend's car will help.

I have a series 1 waiting in Japan, I will be headed out there soon to make sure that I have a solid base to work with. If you find Garage Yoshida is willing to work with foreigners and their work is up to par for quality I may delay import to let them work on it instead of crossing my fingers and hoping a US body shop can do what I'm hoping for. As long as the cost is reasonable and not Omori Factory tier which is like 200k+ for a restoration. Frankly if you want an ITR I would just buy a US one, CARB compliance is a nightmare. They literally have told people point blank the whole point of the process is to discourage you from trying to import your own car. The EPA 21 year clause refers to engine swaps from what I've seen, not rebuilt engines. You need to import a basically stock car anyways to get past CARB so you shouldn't be worried about that part. Source: https://www.epa.gov/importing-vehicles-and-engines/learn-about-importing-vehicles-and-engines

R34 engine is not a problem, it looks like they actually modified it to fit the original R33 harness, you can see the power transistor/ignitor pack on the back of the spark plug cover. As far as BAR is concerned you just broke the original engine and put in replacement parts to fix it. As long as the engine has all the same parts as the original 1995 car it will pass for emissions purposes. They won't spend a ton of time hassling you because you put a different CAS sensor and repinned the CAS harness. Their primary concern is stuff like making sure you have a factory downpipe, the right cats, factory PCV, intake, turbos, ECU, etc. Sean Morris is the one that actually goes and discovers what happens when you try to register a car. If you read the CARB site page on direct import they mention a limited exemption for people that own their car a full year or more before moving back to California, but they actually quietly changed the regulations there to close that loophole back in 2017. Sean follows these regulatory changes closely. It is looking like even though CARB claims an equipment exemption for OBD compliance on direct import, the DMV will not register a 1996+ car that is missing OBD2. There is no procedure to smog a 1996+ car with no OBD2 connector so you can't pass the smog referee. The FTP-75 test is a drive cycle test, so it is about how much NOx, HC, and CO the car emits per mile over a ~23 minute temperature controlled dyno run. So the R34 engine is no problem as long as you don't have anything problematic like a low temperature thermostat or faulty evap canister. The 1995s spiking in price is entirely related to US demand, they're by far the most common and arguably the least desirable for those outside of CA. Series 3 has the HIDs, a better airbag setup, better ABS, trunk rigidity reinforcements, and a different front lip that looks better to most. Also a different front bumper with oil cooler cutout. If not for CA's inane emissions laws I would get a series 2 or 3 VSpec instead of faffing about with a series 1.

The R33 is supposed to be more refined in a number of ways. Less front heavy, less rotational inertia, more chassis rigidity, less front lift, lower drag coefficient, etc. ATTESA is less on-off in its behavior, it starts applying more FWD earlier on to help make the car more progressive. But it's a bigger car. It's pretty long, almost exactly the same dimensions as a BMW M4, just not as wide. The R32 and R34 are more compact, but also means that the two seats in the back are vestigial. The R33 is probably the most unstable under trailbraking from what I've heard though, especially the series 1/2 which have different ABS compared to series 3. The engine and transmission are basically identical to the R32, nothing to write home about there. Interior is pretty similar to the R32, just slightly modified. Seats are basically identical too. Only difference is driver side airbag is standard, passenger side optional in 1995 and standard 1996-1998. If you're after a raw experience the R32 is the most wild of the 3. If you find that you want more space and more refined tuning then R33 is a lot cheaper than the R34 while delivering most of the driving experience, if you can overlook the MFD and some aero bits.