joshuaho96

Frankly if you're struggling with installing pods my advice is don't. Most pod filters don't do much for power and a lot of them have poor filtration.

Does it just need main 12V supply to be able to flash? Maybe they should sell a connector that allows you to connect a small motorcycle battery to power the ECU without connecting to the rest of the car.

If you have a competent tuner this should be fixed pretty easily. If you intend to drive this car on the street after you get the tune to a good state where you're pretty confident it won't nuke catalytic converters I would put the catalytic converter back in. Exhaust contains a non-trivial amount of carbon monoxide, if you have any kind of exhaust leak under the car it's going to seep into the cabin whenever you stop at traffic lights.

Your idle is probably ok, just make sure your AFR target is correct. You want to idle at stoichiometric AFR to keep the catalytic converter functional. If the wideband is further back in the exhaust it's likely getting some fresh air on it which causes false lean. Also revving like that at low load in neutral means you are not building any boost. You should not be dropping down to 11:1 AFR like that. Back up your current map and duplicate it, then zero out your transient fuel tables and see if the same issue occurs. If it goes away then the problem is your transient fuel settings, if it remains it's your main fueling table in near zero load situations. Or take a data log on your current map and see how much transient fueling the ECU is adding/removing. When you revved up high and then released the throttle at the end the behavior of the wideband was normal. That was the DFCO kicking in for a little bit and fuel injection cutting out briefly. Disable DFCO in the engine map and see if the same behavior occurs again, it probably won't.

My view on emissions is that CO2 is a way bigger problem that one lone individual cannot really solve. You can avoid using plastic bags, straws, buying endless piles of trash that you never use, drive an EV, etc... but it doesn't even come close to helping the problem, not when the rainforest is being slashed and burned in south america for agriculture. They use the land for a few growing seasons then it's on to the next plot to slash and burn. But stuff like unburned oil spraying out your atmo vent catch can or exhaust PCV system is getting into your water, it's getting into the roadways and causes extremely slick surfaces when it rains

Any thoughts on the Tarmac Solutions air oil separator? Supposedly uses the dipstick as a ghetto crankcase vent.

Is the crankcase vent used because an excess of oil is pushing out of the valve cover into the PCV? The 80+ page thread is just dizzying amounts of back and forth. If the issue is just a lot of oil coming out of the PCV I would wonder if an air oil separator draining back to crankcase is a decent enough bandaid solution to avoid pulling the engine to install a proper crankcase vent.

I dunno about you but I find the Skyline GT-Rs to be surprisingly refined. With the R34 they were definitely trying to go for more refinement, easier to drive, etc. The R35 only continues the trend. If anything the R35's native NVH is a little worse because of the V6, they just muffle and dampen everything to be what you expect from a modern car. I would say if OP is really, really obsessed with getting as little noise as possible the only choice is to use a new OEM dual mass flywheel and an upgraded single plate like mentioned in this thread. If he's willing to compromise a little with the dual plate chatter then ATS silent twin plate. If he's ok with some of this noise then Coppermix twin or ATS twin plate. This is the stuff we're talking about though:

I'm not advocating for a dual mass flywheel, I'm just under the impression that he wants to have none of the noises that go with a normal flywheel either the ~10kg heavy variant or ~6kg lightweight variant when paired to a Getrag V160. My personal vote would be ATS spec 2 with the heavy flywheel option but that's just me.

ATS has a "silent clutch" that bolts up to the OEM flywheel for the R34 and can be a twin plate to hold power. The question I have is whether their pull style clutch has a similar variant, otherwise you need to do a pull to push clutch conversion. I would also say that you shouldn't be taking random strangers online at their word, you should do your own research. Many tuners out there will also not have any interest in what you want to do with your car so be prepared to shop around to find someone that is willing to think about what you want.

The problem with the Getrag V160 is that it needs a dual mass flywheel. If you don't use one it will be noisy as mentioned in the description. I don't believe the Super Coppermix Twin can use anything other than a lightweight flywheel. If you want to use the OEM flywheel try contacting ATS to see if they have anything. Depending on your power goals you can get a very light, streetable clutch that won't be noisy. It does cost a bit more than the Nismo clutch though if you want a carbon clutch disc.

I'm just cheap, I have a bottle of ATF in the garage and some acetone.

Don't use WD40, ATF + acetone in a 50/50 mix is a lot better and ATF is pretty common stuff.

This sounds like a bad ground. Sensor grounds should never be tied directly to a battery ground in any way.

Doesn't Midori Seibi make some LED lights that make the projectors kind of workable?

I thought the whole point of a water cooled turbo was that it would keep the oil from coking? Also not that difficult to just avoid getting into boost for the last minute or two of driving, sit there for 10-15 seconds idling before key off. Super simple and no need to screw up your harness with shoddy wiring.

What airbags?

Verify that your spark plugs are not firing after key off first. If they are then you have some kind of wiring issue. If your spark plugs are not firing then your fuel injectors are leaking.

ID1050x still has a very narrow spray angle, most of the fuel will go straight down the intake divider. Toyota made that work by using air assisted fuel injectors but as far as I know the RB26 has no such system and is much more reliant on the injector itself providing the spray pattern and atomization. Bosch motorsport has the 040 980cc injector which works great, just make sure you get a flow matched set.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ This is a great oil testing blog if your engine needs extreme wear protection. Additive pack is a big deal in most oils, the additives are what differentiate oils, don't try to be an armchair engineer and modify the additives without a good understanding of what you're doing. I personally go with the highest ranked oil on that list available for 4-5 USD per quart.

Plastigauge is shockingly accurate and allows for multiple measurements instead of just two points, don't knock on it:

I'm pretty sure what you're thinking of is this: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/electric/266/26510N/ There should be another body piece though that this clips into, not sure if you're missing that as well. Without references it's hard for me to say.

First verify that you don't have any leaks and the AC amp + AC relays are functioning properly. Then verify that the charge is properly done. You may need to evacuate it entirely and recharge. I believe the dryer and some o-rings need to be exchanged for R134a versions but that should be it. You will lose some AC performance compared to R-12. If you don't like the thought of that then there is HC-12a which is an isobutane + propane mix. It is highly flammable so if you have a leak in the evaporator you have to roll down the windows immediately, don't believe the marketing claims that it's perfectly safe, it's like having a natural gas leak in your house.

Another possibility here is that you have a bad MAF sensor.

I would not count on the federal government being able to do anything for you in particular, this is mostly a fight over CA's new car emissions requirements (LEV III by 2020) + ZEV marketshare from 4.5% in 2018 to 22% by 2025. The EPA doesn't regulate direct import beyond the 21 year rule for EPA compliance, other states have 25 year rule for smog exemption. CA's smog check is by far the most draconian but there's nothing really stopping them from requiring smog check every 2 years for all cars made after 1976. 1994-2003 emissions standards are also the same for both CA and federal, tier 1 limits are identical. The federal government and CA are on the same page here so really the state is just enforcing federal law by requiring you to meet tier 1 emissions. Federal law also mandated OBD2 in 1996 so technically CA is just enforcing federal law again. It's just that other states aren't interested in doing so due to time and cost constraints. Don't get me wrong, I would love to import a series 2 or 3 instead of a series 1 but I think it's important to be realistic. Forgot to mention this but keep in mind that the EPA technically does not allow you to modify any emissions control systems in a car regardless of age. EGR deletes, decat, DPF delete, SCR delete, smog pump deletes, thermostatic air cleaner delete, evap delete, etc... are all illegal in the US. The only reason why anyone gets away with this stuff is because the state they live in doesn't care to actually enforce the law and the federal EPA doesn't have the resources to chase down individuals like this. California doesn't even enforce these laws in some counties, if you live in a very rural area smog only happens upon sale. Personally my assessment is even regardless of enforcement, we should be mindful of the emissions that gasoline engines produce. Unburned gasoline vapors are acutely toxic in high concentration and carcinogenic at lower ones, NOx damages your lungs, PM2.5 gets into your brain and can cause early onset dementia, and carbon monoxide is pretty universally understood to be bad for you. Keeping catalytic converters on does not cost as much power as it might seem.