joshuaho96

When it comes to jacking points people often screw it up horribly because of a few reasons: 1. They use a forklift to recover a car on the track. You are not supposed to put pressure on the edge of the pinch weld. When the forklift raises the car it folds the pinch weld over and crushes it. Paint flakes off and then the corrosion starts. 2. They used a floor jack on the pinch weld. You should never do this regardless of what floor jack you use. 3. They weren't careful when lowering a car onto jack stands and did not use the proper pinch weld adapters for the jack stands. You should always use a rubber U-block that uses the flat portions around the pinch weld, not the edge of it. If you look at the scissor jack included in the trunk this is how they work. They also have a very slow action to reduce the odds of excessive force crushing them in. Generally speaking the 4 pinch weld jack points are only safe to use on a 2 or 4 post lift with the appropriate adapters and for the scissor jack. Otherwise only use it for jack stands. I have talked to multiple body shop workers about what you have to do to fix bent pinch welds and the answer was not a good one. It is a pretty painful feeling to screw those up as they are formed through the merge of multiple panels and sealed up in a way that is almost impossible to replicate.

That one is ok, as you can see in picture 38 someone mangled the jacking point and it's rusting out but I couldn't spot anything else super obvious. Pretty honest seller to include that in there. So you will have to price the repair of that in. Toprank was relatively low pressure all things considered. I put down a deposit and they gave me a full two weeks to mull it over and a ton of time to organize a PPI, get a lot of photos + video, etc. And they do have quite the operation out there, if you go to the PDI center you'll often encounter a car stripped to the frame for restoration if a customer requests it. Another source of cars to consider is Global Auto or HJA. I believe HJA is one of the best importers in the UK, they are extremely thorough in documenting the cars with photos so you can assess condition pretty well even remotely. Helps that most of their cars are already good to go to begin with.

I'm no mechanical engineer, anyone care to weigh in on the differences between something like the Nitto spline drive vs Supertec?

On that silver R33 you linked the shift knob has been replaced, if you look at a car with actual ~160k km you will see quite a lot of wear and tear on the steering wheel and shift knob. I will PM you a link to the car I got with links of the auction listing vs the condition when sold. Also, for some reason part of the PCV hose seems to be like a garden hose or something, you need to fix that and get rid of the pods if you really want to do CA registration. I would also make sure to inspect carefully, the hood does not look like it has an even gap relative to the fenders on the left and right side. Might be accident damage. As others have mentioned the plenum has 100% been repainted, a car with any substantial amount of miles is going to have a lot of paint flaking off the plenum. A lot of importers clean this stuff up to make it more presentable. You do need to go out and PPI these things, never buy a car sight unseen. That KN6 R33 has really poor strut tower repair, a proper repair will be very hard to perceive. If you follow Garage Yoshida at all, a ton of their work these days is strut tower repair and you can see what a proper repair should be: http://www.garage-yoshida.net/process_strut.html If I had to choose between the two honestly I would go with the KN6 R33, and even then I would tread carefully, absolutely need to get these cars on a lift and see what's going on underneath, stuff like pinch welds are often mangled and rusting out. And if the strut towers and pinch welds are rusting out, a real horror show is awaiting when you take off the front cowling which is another common rust point. A lot of these companies are counting on people to buy sight unseen and not really know what to look for.

Those kits are very popular in Japan right now. Haven't heard any complaints yet.

I think there are a few mods that can be done that won't screw up the character of the engine though. Really just quality of life improvements like the R35 coil conversion, R35 MAFs, R35 injectors, divided twin turbo pipe or Nismo intake pipes. But I don't hold a stock RB26 in any particular regard.

Is PRP making progress on that dual VCAM they mentioned on their R&D page? That would really wake up the engine even with its 2.6L displacement.

45-50k NZD is reasonable but much more and it needs to be mostly stock and in very clean condition.

When you can I would definitely consider getting some Bosch 040 injectors, those will be a lot better for spray pattern, atomization, and accurate flow control as long as you stay within ~OEM parameters i.e. ~3-4 bar differential fuel pressure, ~12-14V supply. NZEFI sells them for a pretty fair price. If the goal is to help relieve pressure you probably should route from the top of sump in the spot where crankcase pressure is highest to a PCV valve then T into the plumbing back to the intake. I suspect the reason why most people route the line into the head is actually to use the PCV valve, otherwise you will start pulling oil into the intake at idle due to high vacuum. If you are going for full drift I would seriously consider a dry sump system. Wet sump works for street cars but if you are going to be at high revs and pulling high Gs you will ventilate the block at some point even with the best wet sump setup possible.

10:1 is GDI territory. Unless you run massive duration cams to lower dynamic CR I would be skeptical that you can get great power. Just my opinion though. 9.5:1 is already very high for port injected turbo engines and I would expect to be running E85 full time with that kind of CR.

You probably have to go twin plate for 370 kw.

For a 300kw RB26 is anything needed beyond baffled oil pan, oil pump, maybe a head restrictor, and air/oil separator?

Also, those part numbers are outdated, people just use them by convention now. The -9s now have ceramic ball bearings so their P/N is 836026-2. Not sure what the others are but something to keep in mind.

The Tarzan sensor will be more aggressive on the FWD engagement, it will trick the controller into thinking that the lateral g force is greater than it really is. If you like the stock ATTESA feel with less AWD intervention then just get the OEM equivalent. Canister should not throw code 16, it is an unrelated issue. But hearing the relays clicking the pump on every 4-5 seconds is a sign that it needs recharging/replacement. The code would likely only show up once the pump failed and could not build sufficient pressure.

You very likely need to do two things: 1. Replace the g sensor with a proper digital MEMS one, the stock one is literally a pendulum with some springs and an encoder that will wear out especially after 20+ years. Do-Luck and Midori-Seibi make one, just get the cheapest one of those two brands if you just need OEM equivalent. If the code doesn't go away start checking continuity anywhere you can to narrow down where the wiring fault is. 2. The nitrogen pump accumulator is probably spent, which is why you're hearing the clicking noises. Look for 41630-20U00 as the replacement part, it is next to the ATTESA-ETS pump: https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/158978-attesa-nitorgen-accumulator-cannister.html

DBW allows for idle control without the AAC valve, cruise control without a lot of extra plumbing, traction control, etc. You can also control transients a little better in theory. I personally don't trust aftermarket ECUs to have good DBW code though, failsafes become much more important with DBW, if the throttle can fail open that's a big problem.

Yeah I'm speaking more to modern downsized turbo engines. They try really hard to silence any and all induction noise unless you modify the car quite a bit.

Diverter valves will make some sound but it's very subtle, if your intake doesn't make a lot of induction noise to begin with it'll be pretty hard to tell.

As a general rule cars are only sold shortly after a rebuild if it has gone wrong in some way. It's often possible the rebuild may not have been done at all, just a claimed rebuild to try and sell the car. You should be extremely suspicious if someone claims a recent rebuild and get a full PPI done, possibly even an oil analysis and cut open the oil filter. A lot of machine shops and engine builders just don't take enough care when doing rebuilds to achieve factory quality. If they can't produce receipts or invoices proving that it was rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing, you should walk away.

If you store it in Japan until it's 25 years you can import it to the US. Registration in California will require a mostly stock engine, you can have a catback but everything else needs to be stock. Expect to pay 50k USD for emissions compliance, roughly 71k AUD at this time or 5.4M yen due to the requirement for all 1996+ vehicles to have OBD2. After that smog will be every 2 years. Smog will be OBD2 connected with exhaust sniffer testing in neutral. States other than Hawaii and CA will be simple, you will be emissions exempt so you can do whatever you want to the car.

Stock dwell time on the ECU will work with R35 coils if you are running a mostly stock engine or somewhere near it. Dwell time increases only come into play when the spark is getting blown out from excess pressure in the chamber.

Looks like you might have shorted something. It shouldn't be possible to damage the coil drivers like this at stock dwell settings.

I would never recommend a big laggy turbo on a street car.

PowerFC is old and doesn't even have knock control. If you don't notice the blinking light while doing a hard pull it will let you destroy the engine. Even the stock ECU has knock control. If you want something that works with all the factory bits and is properly modern I think the best from what I've seen is the Haltech Elite 2000/2500. Bosch 040 980cc injectors with adapters. NZEFI sells them with the resistor pack eliminator. These are proper Bosch injectors, most aftermarket injectors are not very good, don't faff about and go straight to what the OEMs would use. If you are ok with ~450 whp max then I would go with the -9s, it is achievable with 98 RON/93 AKI gas. Especially if you are building a street car. -9s do not give much in power up at all in the critical 3000 rpm region to -7s, I've seen the dyno charts and it's maybe 5-10 whp. If you want to fix that region you need more displacement and/or VCAM. HKS has an intake side VVT kit, PRP is working on a dual VCAM kit that will really eke out every last bit of response possible from the RB26. For fuel pump selection you need to decide if you want to run E85 or not now. If you want E85: Stock fuel pump wiring only supports 15A max. If you want to run E85 with that much power you need a brushless fuel pump. A brushless fuel pump will be able to sustain much higher flow rates even at high pressures and means that the pump will not wear out faster in the presence of E85. Any brushed pump will wear out faster with E85 vs gasoline, this is a fact of life. Deatschwerks and Fuelab are making brushless pumps that will be available before end of year that will be able to sustain 500 whp within the stock 15A limit. Ti Automotive/Walbro is making a 500 lph brushless pump that will draw 25A like the 450 lph brushed pump but at massively higher flow rates, especially in forced induction applications. For pump gas: Nismo/Tomei 276 lph fuel pump and be done with it. Also, ditch the pods if you still have them. They don't filter as well as the stock airbox and will definitely increase silica content in your oil.

Would be curious to know if anyone has gone the Fuelab 48403/48402 route for an in-tank setup. I have seen that Deatschwerks is releasing a 340 lph brushless pump as well, which ever integrates best into the stock tank + wiring would be an interesting upgrade.