r32-25t

So they took the head off pretty much straight away and pressure tested it both hot and cold and confirmed the head is fine, they are going to pressure test the block but don’t believe there is a way that can cause the issue.

The oil splashing on them will probably create a bigger weight discrepancy then you’re trying to shave off

It’s usually the torque from the engine pulls them apart, most people just fit a solid one to the passenger side

An advantage of grub screwing is you can run the pipe cleaners through all the oil galleries

Pull the wire out of the master cylinder and see if it stays off, if so then the sensor is faulty

Looking at it myself there’s only really one thing I believe it could be, I’m just not going to say anything until the machine shop looks at it and gives their opinion

Yeah to the engine shop to find the issue, i supplied the block brand new in a box and let them machine and build it

Sorry it’s taken so long but I haven’t been well (not sure why) Unfortunately it’s not a throw off, while the car was at the fabricator/tuner they noticed an oil leak and said they didn’t want to tune the car until it was rectified. the car was towed to the fab shop that did the sump and put on his hoist and we looked for the leak, we determined where the leak was and what had caused it and the engine needed to come out because he didn’t want to weld it on the car. He then offered me his hoist to pull the engine out which I was very grateful for and the next day arrived tools in hand and remove the engine and gearbox in about 4 hours!! Now, while draining the oil tank I noticed what came out first appeared to be coolant then followed by oil, I undid all the scavenge lines and we noticed there was a milky layer coming out of them as well 😞 once the engine was out and and the sump removed there was clear evidence of coolant in the oil/sump, so the engine was put into my Ute and I took it home to take the manifolds and etc off and dropped to the engine shop. The car was then towed out of the workshop to get it out of the fabricators way

well things took a turn for the worse and then got even worse again. Will update with full story soon

8085

All the fab work is done. I got the cooler piping and intake made up all with genuine Wiggins clamps (believe me they aren’t cheap) also had the blow off valve put on the pipe inside the front bar on the drivers side

I just let the dog answer the door,they get the hint when all they find is a little staffy smiling and wagging its tail on the other side of the door lol

What a waste

To make a close ratio gear set they need a long 1st gear because 4th has to be 1:1, so they make them all slightly taller then the originals but they’re are closer together

They both get towed. Just for different reasons

It does, it’s been a long time coming

Off for fab and a tune

Factory crank angle sensor or crank trigger?

Most of us would agree with getting rid of the 30yr old hoses! Im surprised you haven’t had all the heater hoses let go yet

If this is that confusing for you then you really should take it to a professional

According to your diagram you have the right side port attached to the pressure source on the turbo and the front port also attached to the pressure source on the plenum

that’s how it’s done, its really not that hard

I got a set of the the new ad09 in a 265/35/18. I like the fact they aren’t directional and they seem a lot softer the the ad08 was and hopefully have more grip

The tyres on the volks were very old and a size smaller then I’d like them to be And with hopefully getting the car on the road soon meant it was probably a good time to replace them