Dose Pipe Sutututu

It was part of Skyline ownership, put in Bilsteins and ground off the OEM boost solenoid lol. Both of my R33s (current and previous shit box) had Bilsteins!

have been waiting for the build thread too!

Buy a BMW M4, then MHD OTS reflash. OR you could do what @Kinkstaah did to get a little more horsepower

Edited Post: should have bought a M4, flashed, change the exhaust with an off the shelf item, upgrade the W2A IC with an off the shelf item and do 100+ laps without anything breaking.

Let's see how things go - might have to go cut a few laps at Wakefield

@sneakey pete @Lithium

Find out soon I suppose, have a skidpan evening this Friday lol....

Put it this way a F1 motor back in the 80s would last at best a few sessions, now take that same motor and run it off a modern ECU with all the proper strategies in place and it would last probably a whole season (provided the dinosaur turbos don't explode and the motor doesn't re-ingest the fragments).

thanks Pete - but I probably won't get to this for a while (maybe never lol) I think it's gone, but I also have a stupid Gates timing belt which makes a whirring noise too (ordered OEM, opened the box a year later, came with a Gates belt)

No, because you're planning to run an atmospheric BOV. Also why a GT3076? Man it's 2020 not 2006.

Yes to Samsonas, and also mechanical fuel pump. Running electric fuel pumps isn't Don Mega in 2020 anymore. The game has changed, 2020 is about 1000+ up, Samsomas sequentials, mechanical fuel pumps and MoTec M1

Did some work on the land boat, flushed the gearbox oil, lowered the front by another 8mm and replaced the AC idler. Turns out I installed the original one incorrect so the belt was ever so slightly offset forward. On hard limiter bashing I assumed the belt would jump and hit the PS belt and throw it off. Anyhow, regardless oId idler into the bin, new idler installed. Let's hope no more belts come flying off!

Long time no update, because there hasn't been an update.. but I did drive the car to work this week (thank god just once) because the wifey needed the car to see her sales team on a day where I also needed the car. Anyhow, 1st time I drove the car in about 3 months - gosh it sucks in peak hour traffic to North Ryde LOL... not to mention the A/C causes the motor to stall when it comes on at low RPM, even with 20% additional DC on the IAC it's not enough. I suspect a cooked compressor and/or condenser (it is quite warped, looked like sometime ago it was in a light front ender). Plans to fit the new A/C idler pulley - but at this rate I might as well swap out the A/C compressor. Other than that, might buy a 100mm HDi GT2 core then tune the car once and for all, track it a few times, then strip sell Unless.......... someone gives me 30k straight up and it's yours.

F30 335i with x-Drive

Do this.

Reducing the thickness and/or stiffnessup front you'll end up with less understeer - so benefit there, not to mention the chances of you snapping the brackets reduces significantly.

When they're crimped properly lol.. Will PM you some lols

Install a 2JZ and a Samsonas

Delete the intake pressure relief valve and you'll get close to 200kW on the stock gear with 1.2bar of boost and usual bolt ons.

They must have changed it perhaps, a car from John's Garage (Civic EK Coupe) got disqualified because he cut/shut his guards to fit 255 wide AD08.

Easier and cheaper to achieve higher ppwer to weight ratio in a lawnmower than a Silvia without a RB swap or a 20k+ SR22VET. Also you can't cut the guards to fit wider wheels in IIRC.

Unless you're dealing with a motor built for big boost and big horse power with very big ring gaps, then yes you'll get an undesirable leak down result. Pretty much what @GTSBoy said but in simpler terms.

They might look fine, but generally if they're the OEM ones since 1996 then there's a very high chance they're anything but fine. And if you do decide to replace them, steer clear from red, yellow, pink, green, etc. ones. They need to be either black (OEM, 370Z, R35) or blue (genuine Splitfire).

Yes you can, I used to snap these every few track days. I suggest running better suspension and reducing the hardness of your ARB. I was all in for the super thick, super stiff ARBs but now have both on the softest setting however run much higher spring rates to combat body roll, pitch and also getting much better lap times.

But back on topic, I gave @ActionDan that crazy idea and I hope he does it and capitalises on it! Alternative to a sequential, for those sub 1000hp lol.