Dose Pipe Sutututu

Another reason I advocate buying a BMW M4, spend money on a flash, full TBE, better IC and it would destroy any R32~34 GT-R around a circuit, and at the drag strip. Because hey, no matter what @GTSBoy and I say you're going to refute it.

You forget that's a DI motor, with variable cam & valve timing, better everything from cylinder head design to block & rotating assembly. Yes they use twins, but if you look carefully the pressure side pre-IC is near identical in length all the way into the W2A IC core which then it's only merged afterwards reducing turbulence - thus reducing the infamous aids turbo shuffle the RB26DETT exhibits. The RB26DETT Twin Aids turbo charger layout is simply a hot mess of inefficiency.

A nice, well thought out twin scroll single turbo makes sense too for 300kW, thing would be on so much earlier than a pair of gay twins

Stock timing belt, stock thermostat save your money for new single turbo, because we all know the twin turbos belong in the bin. And before anyone says, but it's a GT-R it needs twin turbos.. yeah how many fast/responsive/great transient response/powerful Toyota Supras do you see with twins?

It's 2020, Tik Tok it

When you blocking off the BOVs and posting up tough dose videos? You'll get more IG likes.

This guy is pretty good, did my mates S15s https://m.facebook.com/mobilecustomfabrication/

You cannot bolt the VCT onto an adjustable cam gear, however you'll be silly to delete VCT. I understand it's a VK, and you don't care too much about lag because I assume it would be comboed with a sex spec auto box with a transbrake. How I see it, people with big coin GT-Rs spend thousands to fit V-Cam to their motors to get essentially a better VCT setup. If you want something different, I reckon fit in a Barra into your VK and go even a bigger turbo

Put it this way, you don't see many fast cars (Drag/Coota/Roll Racing/Circuit/WTAC) using a PowerFC, but if a shop insists on using a PowerFC then yeah. Yes it might make the power, but there's no engine protection, no spare I/Os, no closed loop strategies, no anything really.

I see what you did there ?

Wiring was checked, but was the voltage checked? Why would they pay for dyno time? it's like DeWalt sells you a drill, then replaces it with the new Dewalt XR series and you ask them to build you a new garage (bad analogy but you get the idea).

Sounds like the car "was" running, then after five days these unlisted issues appeared. Gut internet mechanic feelzzzz say electrical issue.

Use a multimeter and check your voltage. Old Nissans, could have a bad alternator /regulator and voltages could be through the roof and cooking electronics

Come do mine, will pay with BBQ, beer and Japanese whisky in the 12 year old variant.

Are you running the stock plumb back BOV, with it all connected?

Remove dash, replace with MoTec C1212. tell next buyer no idea of KM.

he has a RB30ET thought, there won't be VCT

Get a GTX3576R, you've got a 3.0L Walbro 460 or 525 Haltech Elite 750 https://www.haltech.com/overview-elite-750/

if you see the skyline then good? lol

Or backwards lol

Shop around, those prices seem awfully high - esp since it's in USD. You can save a bit of money on the Haltech sensors by getting OEM GM Continental sensors for both the Flex & IAT. Get a FPR1200 or FP2000 Turbosmart FPR, cheaper - dare say better too - also since you're in the US, get a Tomei HG - proven amazing and cheaper too.

Sexual, I have that in my Crapline and I can leave the car without a trickle charger for 4~6 weeks and the POS still starts up

So you're saying you've spent $80k AUD? Sure didn't get much for it.

Rather BMW M4, OTS MHD flash, turbo back exhaust, larger W2A IC and run 10s with super low mph then run better times around Wakefield Park with just semis and climate control on.

15K USD to AUD = ~ $21.8k Ummm.. maybe drop the V-Cam